Rob

I've installed the Tulsa 70 winch onto this truck and would like to use air controls for the clutch dogs, and drag brake for the drum. I've already got a trolley valve installed onto the headache rack that can be reached through the rear cab window. I will plumb in air lines for the clutch actuator. I've never investigated what type cylinders are used for these functions. I have noticed they look like brake service chambers, but am not sure if that is in fact what they are. It would seem that one would use air pressure to disengage the clutch to free spool cable from the drum, and it would spring return engage when the pressure is released. The drag brake would use air pressure to provide friction to avoid running off too much cable and bird nesting. I would think that the spring on the brake band would be sufficient to release the band brake. Am I correct in my assumptions? This will be my lowboy tractor and will be handy to remain inside the truck when winching. Thanks, Rob

Whenever I start any of my Macks up, Three Arabs take turns working the pump handle. Rob

These guys do great work, reasonably priced with a rapid turnaround on steering gears. At least they have for me. Most of the small parts are still available from a Mack dealer as they are the same as a conventional truck. There are others here much more versed that I on fire apparatus to chime in. Rob

But I do like Mack trucks, Honest!! Rob

Put a lot of them on through the years. Much easier for the novice to replace the door shell complete. If incessant on replacing just the outer skin, make several measurements of the old skin to the inner shell before removal to ensure correct alignment upon welding the new skin to the structure. Rob

I always try to look at the flip side of the coin and wonder why my wife stays with me. I'm 5'2", bald, 315 pounds, (I'm dieting) flat feet, emminator of foot stench, large ears with left one drooping, body odor that borders on "funk" etc.... Most of all; "I Like Mack Trucks". Rob

You're correct Paul. I've used unishippers many times through the years and never been dissatisfied with the rates, or service. I use "DeeDee" at Unishippers, (800) 699-1577, ext. 106, or Tammy, (can't remember her extension) but just ask who answers for her. They both know me as "Rob at Auto Affair in Farmington". I think they are commisioned sales persons and their personal service is at the "upper end of the scale" and good enough that I ask people to use them if at all possible. I also try, (as you have) to use the independent trucker first. As an example: Last evening, my winch pictured earlier was shipped from northern California, weighing in at 1356 pounds, shipped to my door for $498.00. This is at least 2500 miles travel distance so I couldn't justify driving to get it. If you would like me to handle it for you, send me your contact information in a pm. I know Packer can load that engine and a full dressed 401 Mack is about 850 pounds. If you figure 900 pounds, you'll be covered. Be sure and tell the girls I said "hello". Rob

Got me a little winch last evening. The truck originally had a 64 Tulsa at a 45,00 pull rating, (this one is a 70 Tulsa) and a 34 Tulsa at a 30,000 pull rating for oil field usage. I'm still on the hunt for a 34 series. This will probably suffice to pull me from a stuck position don't ya think? Rob

I have one of them on an "R" model and do not like it. It is for the 6" air inlet on the top of the filter. It is an impedance to driving vision, (this is just me), as it is about 14-16" tall. It is on the truck in my avatar. I would trade it for an original to fit. I also have a "Maradyne" brand "Power Ram" on another "R" model. It is lower and not near as much of a vision block. Rob

Today I had a breakdown, (pictoral) faxed over to me and the cover only has two bushings. I spoke with a mechanic at the transmission shop and he said those bushings were common to wear and become sloppy. He also stated they used to install a bushing near the end of the housing. There never was a third bushing. I ordered all parts that are worn for a grand total of $23.00 including the bushings, seal, pivot seat for the shifter handle, and top gasket. I hate to rely solely on silicone for an oil seal. Should be pretty easy to rebuild and I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Rob

I've got 12/00X20 tires on one of my B-61's that is a tandem. The rear tires really could use a wider spacer between them, (Dayton wheels), as clearance is tight but for a driver type truck that will not be worked heavy, there are no problems. The steer axel presents no clearance issues either. Rob

A lot of trucks take 10-W-30 engine oil in the reservoir. I always use Dexron ATF in mine. Rob

A few weeks ago I removed the top plate for the compoud shifter and found the lock bolt depression "wollered out" due to the bolt being loose. This caused the compound shifter to be sloppy. I welded up the hole, redrilled it and installed the bolt with red "Loc-Tight" on the threads. It has worked much better now than originally. Tonight I located a complete top plate and fork/rail assembly that I knew I had. The shaft is perfect with no perceptable wear at all. I did notice that when the cover is flipped upside down, the shaft has a lot of wobble in the housing. Upon dissassembling the unit, I noticed there are two bronze bushings in the housing. One bushing is right behind the front seal, the second bushing is about 1/2 way down the bore and is split apart needing replacement, and there is a recess further down the bore that feels like there should be a third bushing but none exists. I can feel a shoulder like a bushing would butt up against this from the feel of it. I don't have a pictoral or breakdown of this housing so I'm wondering if there is a bushing missing? If this is in fact missing, I will order a kit to rebuild it to have as a spare. Thanks, Rob

My 57 B-61 has a factory red frame and undercarriage. My 58 B-61 is factory green in the same places. The 57 truck is from San Antonio, TX originally and on Budd wheels, the 58 is from Kansas on Daytons. They were built less than one month apart. Rob

The least expensive and easiest way is to replace the door shell with a used unit. They are plentiful as many years fit. Depending on the year, the latch mechanism is the only real difference. Older units use a rotary type latch, later use a double pawl style latch. The cutover was 1979 to the double pawl. 1977 was the start of the cutover until existing stocks were depleted at the factory level. Rob

After doing what is suggested in above posts, I chain up my skid steer loader to the rear frame of the truck against the spill guard of my forks tightly. I then gently rock the truck back and forth with the truck transmission in low gear. Most times a stuck engine will free up over a period of time and with this method, you don't break or burn up parts. I've had four trucks that I've done this with and each time has worked well. I use ATF in the cylinders. Rob

No, not really Larry. You have got the "test of time" behind you which I will not at first. All of my trucks are currently is various stages of disrepair/restoration and upon completion it will be a lot of parts asked to work together again. I don't expect or anticipate problems, just want to be prepared for them. Rob

yes, but true happiness is achieved with a "belt fed weapon". Rob

HI CC, I had not thought of spare pieces of hose and lines with fittings at all. I am planning to carry bulbs, and a spare lamp or two. This makes good, sound sense. I suppose a spare set of heater and radiator hoses would be prudent also but space constraints would probably be a limiting factor as to what actually is carried. Like you, I carry extra engine oil, and coolant on every trip in whatever I drive. I built this tool kit up to be portable and be taken off of one truck, and installed onto another easily. It has three "keyhole" slot rails in the back, and mounting "buttons" that mount to each trucks frame. One fits the "buttons" into the slots, lets the toolbox slide down two inches and hang, and a chain welded to the lower backside of the box wraps up the inner side of the frame rail on the truck, and padlocks to the top backside of the toolbox. This will keep it on the truck unless someone has a set of boltcutters, or torch. All of the trucks I will drive are restored antiques, so I will not want them residing alongside of the road unattended very long. My dropdeck trailer will have miscellaneous "dunnage" and/or "blocking", so I did not incorporate these type items. I will also carry one spare tire on a "Budd" rim, and one on a "Dayton" style under the trailer in a rack. I'll probably use an inexpensive hand winch to drag a tire out of, and back into it's storage rack. this of course is hoping that I never need to use them. The only flat tire I've ever had without a spare was in a company straight truck with a full deckload of lumber on. I blew the rt. front steer tire; (9.00X20) and had to walk nearly 1.5 miles to a farmhouse to call someone to help me out. The truck had no jack, tire, lugwrench, or even a cb radio! This was in 1980 near Litchfield, IL, on I-55, in the southbound lanes. It just happened to be in the area that was very sparse of population. Man was I pissed cause it was 97 degrees with matching humidity that day! These days, nearly everyone has a cell phone, but then, they weren't even heard of. Rob

QUOTE(other dog @ Jun 22 2008, 10:25 AM) We used to carry spare tires,a jack,and lug wrench back when everything had Dayton wheels. We'd get 10 dollars extra on our paycheck everytime we changed a flat. Hard to do anything now with Budd wheels,and we had a lot of trailers dropped at different places and the spare tires got stolen on a regular basis. I've got a toolkit made up for my "on road" adventures to start next year. It includes a roll of 3/4" air line to support my 1" drive CP wrench, a small air powered bottle jack, (20 ton) and a set of sockets to service these type(s) of problems, plus a good pipe for lifting/leverage. I figger the 50' line will be long enough to reach anything I need to on the side of the road via a service port into one of the air receivers on the truck, or trailer. With proper adapters, this line will be reduced to fit 3/8" air line to support the other air tools that are also incorporated into this kit. I've also got flares, flags, strobes, etc... to cover being seen at night. All of this "stuff" readily fits into a 18"HX24"LX12"D treadplate steel box that each truck could have. At 47 pounds ready to travel, I can mount and lock it onto most any truck that I am going to drive and readily transfer it to another. All of my trucks have air brakes so if the engine doesn't run, I'm still SOL! I can't speak from personal experience with tire troubles on the road, but next year when I start to participate in distant shows and such, I don't want to be stranded because of something like this. Always have ran good tires without compromise, but failures still happen. Rob

Not really after just a month. I would take it back into your vendor as they would probably replace it under warrenty. Rob

I rode in one of them, I think it was called a CLT series w/400 Caterpillar, and a 13 speed. The very first corner we took was a stiff left, and I thought we was going to roll over in the intersection! I guess a person could get used to that lean, but not me! I watched the same truck make other turns and you'd have thought that the lower headlamp panel was going to smack the top of the bumper. Never seen anything like it again, or since, except on this one truck. Rob

Wife and I have been thinking of vacationing in OZ, and NZ. If you might be able to "put us up" for a couple of weeks and entertain my wife, myself and "hubby" might be able to work a bit of magic on the ole B model. By the way, neither of us smoke. Also, my wife does not belch, fart, cuss, rant, rave or have any of the so called negative tendencies that I somehow posses! 33 years and she hasn't got me converted yet so I guess that I'm considered as a "lost cause"! Seriously, there are a lot of people I plan to meet up with when "down under". My wife, she likes to travel. May bring my mother in law also. She is an underappreciated gem in our lives. Rob

There is really no limit to the length of lineset that you could use. The limiting factor is cost most times. Whatever you use, ensure your suction line is at least an SAE#10 size, and the discharge is at least an SAE#6 size. Another very important point is to not incline the condensor, or evaporator more than 20 degrees from the horizontal plane. If the incline is greater that this the coil tends to "pool" the refrigerant oil. This causes the compressor to "punch" the refrigerant and oil mixture through the coil causing high head pressure and a significant reduction in efficiency; Notably, a lack of cooling. A gent that used to frequent here, (Dale Hamilton) mounted his condensor coil between the rear frame rails horizontally and you can imagine the problems he experienced. My understanding is that upon remounting the coil, the a/c worked well. As far as the extended lineset to span the distance: I would probably use Type "K" refrigeration tubing for any length, and Aeroquip hose where flexibility is required such as connections to the rigid piping. Ensure that everything is securely mounted using "Adel" type clamps to virtually eliminate vibration and breakage. Don't get me wrong, you could use Aeroquip type hose complete but it is more costly up front. With copper, the suction line should be insulated to retain the cold, and the discharge should be left bare to eliminate as much heat of compression as possible before entering the evaporator. My suggestion is to also use a receiver/dryer on the outlet of the condensor coil. I also prefer to use an accumulator on the outlet of the evaporator to prevent "slugging" the compressor with any unevaporated, or liquid refrigerant. The valves in the compressor will only take this action one time and they are history. The dryer will trap and hold any moisture that is possibly in the system, along with any metallic particulate matter that is induced from wear in the compressor. This will extend the life of the installed components. Whether you decide to use an orifice tube, or an expansion valve is a matter of personal choice and cost. I prefer a mechanical expansion device as it is adjustable for operator comfort where an orifice tube is simply that, a small hole that liquid refrigerant hits, is restricted, and expands as the refrigerant passes through. This action gets cold, or rapidly removes heat. One final note: Consider incorporating a high-low switch in the discharge side lineset of the compressor. This will run the condensor cooling fan at a low speed until the high side, (or discharge side) is up over about 225 psi, it will then select the cooling fan run at about twice the speed until the high side pressure drops back to the low speed setting once again. Rob

I thought about that as a possibility Glenn. I really did not plan to use it because I've never had any fuel problems using the same vendor consistently. I did check it with 30 psi of air and it did not leak either from the fuel, or the coolant side. Thanks, Rob