Rob

Hi James, that is pretty much my thoughts on the thing also. I usually buy fuel in bulk that is already cut either 60/40, or 70/30 with #1 diesel for me in the winter. I've never seen one of these on trucks that appear to be factory installed and agree that cool, dense air is beneficial to operation. I'll get a photo snapped and post it tonight. Thanks, Rob

On the rt. side frame rail there is a water heated fuel warmer. It is in good condition and works fine but I don't know if there is any benefit to using it. The truck is a 72 R-685 and I sold the engine/trans from it years ago. The balance of the truck is scrap and it will no longer roll thanks to being underwater for a spell. I'm currently stripping it for spare parts and then will probably scrap the balance. Any benefits to using one of these things that I don't know about? Thanks, Rob

I have an old "Alemite" tool that you actually grease with a gun, slip the end onto the frozen zerk, and smack the other end with a hammer. You will either break the clog, force the zerk from the threads, or explode the zerk. I've had this thing for over 30 years, and my grandpa had it before me for several years. I have seen a copy of this tool at a parts store, I think it was NAPA, but not positive. Rob

Thank you, that is the first I've seen and the stars are a little more than twice as tall as the smaller style letters used in 1970. I did not remember the two stars placement on the front of the hood at all. Rob

Does anyone have any good photo shots of any trucks that were painted in the "stars & bars" layout for the 70th anniversary of Mack Trucks? I'm not only looking for layout, but need sizing also. Thinking of trying to duplicate this scheme on one of mine. Thanks, Rob

Hi James, that is a good thought, but already used to no avail...... One thing she did ask was, "How many Mack trucks do you have to have to be happy?", to which I answered, "As many as you will let me have "sweetheart". She was unimpressed, and suggested I seek professional help. Rob

Well, my wife is gonna have a heyday on my ass when she "discovers" my latest acquisition. I found another R700 series tractor that I couldn't do without; You can prolly guess the rest of the story...... It is an RL-797LST, (Western) tractor with about a 200 inch wheelbase. Sitting on Budd hubs front and back, it has an aluminum frame, hubs, fuel tanks, and carriers that are in good shape. Also has the original ENDT866B (375hp) under the hood, with a 10 speed direct transmission. This is a single stick Mack trans that is air shifted. Even has a "Kysor" roof air unit that I will probably remove. I "scoped this out" on the way to do more damage control due to the flooding that cost me the trip to Macungie. Strange twist of fate. If I'd made the trek to the show, I woulda never seen this truck behind the barn. Rob

I had planned to make the trek to the show this year but floodwaters have curtailed this venture. We have several navigational facilities that are "off the system" due to being submerged. Now the waters are in recession, (bad word I know) we are going to be in full restoration mode. I'm leaving shortly with a truck full of spare parts to hopefully get a good start. I'm still going to try to make it, but bets are off at this point. Looked forward to meeting several folks from this, and the ATHS board. Rob

Taking a little liberty here: I am assuming you have an approximate 1800 square ft. home, single level, average insulation value. This home would require about 3.5 ton of refrigeration capacity, (square footage divided by 600 multiplied by 12,000 equals tonnage of cooling capacity in average household formulations) to adequately cool the living space. I always figger on adding an additional 1/2 ton capacity for abnormal heating spells. Install too large capacity of system and the humidity level in the conditioned air space is not reduced appreciably and comfort is not acheived, just cold uncomfortable existance, (this in itself will not make MOMMA happy with the expected resultant) A refrigerant loss of 10%, (in this case 42,000 btu) could cause evaporator icing. This of course relies upon clean filters, adequate airflow across the coil, relative humidity, and dew point. There are many variables that can be calculated on both the commercial, and residential side. One has to know what they are trying to acheive before properly designing a system to fit the given parameters. Also did you know that most automobile air conditioners are high enough capacity to cool a small house? They are usually about 1.5 to 2 ton capacity. An automobile has a much higher "heat load" placed upon it than a residence due to all the absorbed heat from it's surroundings. Back to trucks now........ Rob

Your evaporator is referred to as the "A" coil. Air is forced through this coil from either the top, or the bottom depending on the design of the furnace, (updraft, or downdraft). If the core were clogged with an updraft furnace setup, the coil in the underside of the coil is where to look. This would only happen with inlet filter neglect!! The reason the system freezes where it does is this is the expansion device in the system where the refrigerant, (liquid at this point) flashes, or evaporates to a gas. This is at the inlet to the evaporator. The gas flows through the evaporator and air is forced across the outside of the coil. As you remember from physics, compression causes heat, expansion causes a rapid reduction in heat. As the gas flows through the coil, it is very cold. The hot air from the space is blown across the coil and heat is removed from it and this air is returned to the space as "conditioned air", hence the term "air conditioning". This is basic I know but the gist of the problem is you most likely have a slight leak in the system. Rob

Once the system is verified to be low on refrigerant, and not a restriction to airflow, or a TXV problem, it would be a good idea to have the servicing technician install a couple of ounces, (amount sized to system capacity) of tracer dye to find your leak. A tight system does not leak in normal service unless their is a problem. It gets expensive to have them come back time and again. Of course the flip side of the coin is that it is cheaper to just shut it off. I think I'd probably have it fixxed so as to not have to "LISTEN TO MOMMA"! I'm sure you know about happiness and momma. Rob

Is it R-22, or R-410 in the system? Check for a clogged evaporator just the same that would impede airflow across the coil. Most home systems are sealed and have to broken open to service, or repair a leak unless service port fittings were silver soldered in upon installation. Is this system a wall unit, or central with a detached condensing unit outside of the space? Rob

It is low on refrigerant causing the condensate water of the evaporator to ice over blocking airflow through the core. What type and year of vehicle? Rob

When my office manager passed away unexpectedly at 48 one day, I inherited his 1990 Ford Ranger with a 2.3 and five speed. I used it as a shop truck for a couple of years until the cab would no longer remain attached to the frame from rust, then scrapped it after I sold the 245,000 mile engine/trans to a guy for twice what it was worth. It still ran perfect, and did not use oil between 5000 mile oil change. I don't have anything negative to say about Rangers! This one sure served us well and averaged 24-25 miles per gallon. It ran well until it was loaded past 750 pounds in the bed. I've got a one ton Dodge w/V-10 engine that averages 11 miles per gallon. It doesn't get driven much for obvious reasons relating to economy. I've got to get a more economical truck to run around in. Rob

The last panel, (other than O.E.M.) I ordered for a Mack truck, (and returned) was from these folks several years ago. Nice people. Their product was not up to my standards, I guess. I made my own panels and have since. Mack Rust Panels Another company that used to sell panels was TABCO, someplace in Ohio. Back in September, 1987 I sent them a check in the amount of $20.00 for a rust repair panels catalog. I never got the catalog, nor a refund for the money despite mailing them a photocopy of the canceled check proving they were paid. I cannot recommend them for obvious reasons although they are still in business. My son says I have a mind like a steel trap concerning these types of things. Rob

Glad to hear you're on the mend. You could tell your lawyer you would settle for a Billion dollars, and the guys' balls who caused you this grief, in a formadahyde solution, contained within a quart Mason jar, serving as a dash ornament for your properly restored Mack DM! This truck, (of course) would have two sticks!! Just my thoughts on fair restitution. Rob

I've thought about that Paul. The labor hours expended to this would not be profitable but could be handled on a "case by case" basis. I thought about manufacturing a male, and female parting mould to stamp them out, but development costs are out of the question. I went through this a few years back with steering wheels for B models. The development I acheived was about $7500.00 for the moulds. I have relatives that are injection moulders so I was going to get a "discounted" rate per piece, but it was still an unprofitable venture given the interest expressed from prospective purchasers. Like many, I couldn't afford to have 1500, (minimum) steering wheels for sale with no contract purchasers! This is much the same that happened with Barry trying to get mudflaps for our use. There is just not enough volume to justify the costs of development and acquisition. Rob

I have to agree on the industrial side of their engines. We have one Volvo D-16 series engine in service ahead of a 400kw Kohler genset, and it runs strong and flawless. There is another scheduled for delivery this fall that is spec'd the same way. These engines are much quieter in operation that the Detroit/Emerson Electric sets they replaced, and do not leak fluids at all. They are too loud to stand next to without earmuffs on, but one does not need the earplugs also as was customary with the Detroits! We get a lot of freight using FedEx, and Yellow at the federal job. Both use a large mixture of Volvo, and Freightliners. I receive mixed reviews from drivers when I ask about service and reliability of the trucks in whole from them. Several of the drivers have stopped by, or delivered to my shop to recall a "better time" of trucking than what they have now when they see my "old" trucks. Rob

I have been unable to find acceptable "rust repair" sections for the cab corners of these trucks. I typically make them by hand myself. There was a company that produced them in Canada, but the consistency from part to part varied so I quit using them and I don't think they are still in business. The rocker panels are simple to make with a little practice. I have not seen them available aftermarket anywhere at this point. The aftermarket doors will have the older rotary latch punch out in them also. If your cab uses the later style "double pawl" style latch, you will have to modify the existing hole in the replacement door to fit your style of latch. Fit and finish of the aftermarket doors vary greatly. Ensure, (before you purchase) the return policy of your chosen vendor. It can be expensive for shipping if things don't align and I've seen many that don't. Another cheap word of advice: Hang that door on the truck bare before doing any modifications to it to ensure it fits the opening and smashes the gasket/seal correctly. If you modify it, it is yours. Rob

Yes, the original "Mack" corporation is gone and not to be returned as we know it. I think of Volvo much the same as my family did of the White Motors corporation in the 50's and 60's. They went "binge purchasing" to extract more technology and profit soaking up Autocar, Diamond T, Reo, Continental Engines, (all but aviation) etc., until they were overextended. In the White Motors Corporations' case the economic downturn was unrecoverable, and there was no option except to liquidate the assets in the early 80's. I see Volvo doing the same business in this country with Mack. Without further development, Mack technology is at the end of it's useful service life, and it is being replaced by much less costly technology (including common platforms for all of their brands) when it is spread over the complete line. Most folks I know that have purchased Mack products have done so due to brand loyalty citing good delivered service from the product(s), and good dealer support. Once this rapid descention downward from quality and service is complete, replaced with the mentality of "get it out of warranty" the truck buying public will purchase solely on the low dollar bid. The Chicago Cubs baseball team is much like Mack Trucks to me. They are iconic in nature. The Cubs do not have to win the game, or pennant to be supported by their loyal fan base. They will always be around no matter who the ownership is at the corporate level. The consistently packed stadium, (Wrigley Field) they play in at home is a testament to this. Mack will always have it's loyal customer base also, especially with the folks that work off road. My own thoughts are that the faithful will be rewarded. I feel Mack Trucks will emerge from this as a separate entity from Volvo Corporation in the long run. I don't see Volvo "killing off" Mack Trucks, but rather divesting of their interests in the corporation once they extract the remaining profits that are to be had. Just some of my random thoughts........... Rob

Hi Rod, theoretically a 44,000# rated rear suspension will effectively carry it's rated load when centered directly perpendicular to the centerline of the trunion that supports the suspension. The fifth wheel placement has to do with steer axle loading and how much of the load one wants onto the truck suspension, and on the trailer suspension. A slider fifth wheel tries to balance this for best comfort, driving ease, and legality, (sometimes). Real truck drivers, (I am not) will give you much more clarification but this is my understanding. Rob

Looks like SWW562 Walking Beam to me. Rob

I'm wanting to change the oils in my transmissions, and axles. Is there one type that will work for all so I can buy a single barrel? I've got tri-plexs, quadruplexes, and a TRDXL-1071. Also have a Brown-Lipe auxillary. All the rears are Mack. Thanks, Rob

It may or may not be right, but it does work for me: I use an air cutoff wheel grinder with a 1/8th thickness wheel to eliminate the rust area(s). The surrounding metal to the repair must be sound. Make a patch that is slightly larger than the area that is cut out, and spot, or tack weld into place. After this is solid, stitch weld in 1" steps to make the panel as one. Grind flat, use "Metal to Metal" on, and over the patch area, knock this down with either 24, or 36 grit paper, then use "Z-Grip" over the top for a second and third, (if needed) coat. Finish sand with 180, prime with a good quality primer/surfacer, let dry and sand smooth with 320-500 grit sandpaper. I prefer wet paper with a splash of dishsoap in the water. I don't do this type of work very often anymore, but here are a few photos to maybe help. I was alone in the shop last Thursday so couldn't snap pictures when either cutting, or welding, but pretty easy to see the results. Be sure and rustproof the underside or the repair will not last long. I use "Rust-free" rustproof/undercoating products. The stuff dries to a wax like film that is not going away easily and does a great job of sealing these area(s). Rob