Rob

I put a reman master on a 1970 C-50 last week. I got the part overnight at my local Carquest, and the cost was $49.00, (shop cost). The wheel cylinders were the killer at $33.00 each and there are two on each wheel! Rob

Long ago I cut both Exxon, and Citgo, (Venezuela govt. owned, wholly) from the vendor list. Rob

Do not crank of move the engine while the pump is removed. It only will go on one way and if the engine is not cranked, or turned over, timing is not an issue. Rob

Remove all of the fuel lines first. Then remove the rear most bracket from the pump, then the three bolts that retain the pump to the engine. The pump will then slide to the rear of the truck with clearance from the compressor. You will probably need to "tilt" the pump upwards, and roll a bit at the rear but it will come out without much trouble. It is heavy so be properly braced. Rob

While I full well realize that "wedge" brakes were probably more troublesome than "S" cam type setups: There was a large concrete plant that ran exclusively White, Reo, Diamond Reo, and Diamond T trucks for many years. They always had wedge brakes. I went to high school with the shop forman's son and spent quite some time there. Can't say I remember the trucks, (over two dozen) were any more trouble than something with hydraulic brakes. Normal, preventative maintenance seems to be the key. Rob

Hi Adrian, there is no reason that moulding would not work and be weathertight. I've used that type many times. There is a non hardening bedding compound that should be used in both the pinchweld, and glass setting channels to ensure there is no leakage. Most times new mouldings will not leak as they are soft and supple but with age and shrinkage, there is a minor problem. This compound solves that. I get the stuff at my windshield supplier. Rob

That piece of widow retaining moulding does not use a separate "locker strip". With the kind displayed, you simply push the lower part under the upper part until is stays. Keep an eye on the "indented" edge of the lower part until it is hidden under the upper part. This type is not original to the truck. All "locker strips", or "beads" are mounted to the outside of the truck body for the correct moulding. There is no reason this type would not work with the exception of the divider post that separates the two windshields. I've seen a home made division bar solvent welded in the center that worked though. The original type moulding is not very expensive and I recommend it's usage. Rob

I am in need of a bracket that rivets to the fiberglass structure at the rear of the hood. This bracket is mounted to the underside of the hood, and the rectangular rubber pad, or cushion that is on the cowl bracket rests against this needed bracket when the hood is closed. Any help appreciated as I'm not having any luck locating what I need. The truck is a 1977 R795. Thanks, Rob

This fitment is common without modifying either the door shell, or the hinges, or both. There is no detriment that I see as the door skin/shell does compress the perimeter gasket for a seal to weather. All of my trucks are as you mention. Rob

My 64 B-61 snaps shut at 60psi on the air gauge without hesitation. Your hinges may need lubed also. Each shutter has a pivot point top and bottom that could bind. Rob

Justin: I don't want to seem forceful or anything negative but I don't hear you saying you have a good handle on what you are trying to accomplish with any of the systems you inquire about. It is great to ask questions and seek others experience but when you go messing with safety issues such as brakes, electrical etc. without a basis of knowledge in the systems you will most likely have problems. I can only speak for myself but I'm sure others would agree that there would be no enjoyment reading about someone burning their truck to the ground, or rear ending someone at a stoplight quite possibly hurting, (or worse) anyone oblivious to the subject, due to lack of experience on the owners/operators part. I am a semi professional mechanic/electrician by trade and believe me I do ask a lot of questions also. Like you, I don't want to make mistakes and my position on safety is taken very seriously. A lot of my knowledge is through training, studying, and understanding the information printed in technical manuals. I strongly suggest that you visit your local library, or ebay, and acquire a set of manuals for the truck and systems you are questioning. A very good set that is readily available through ebay, or other sources is Mack factory service manuals: TS-442 series. These manuals go into great detail in both theory, and repair/service proceedures and will help you immensly with your needs. I ask that you not take anything I have said as an insult as it is not meant that way. Your level of knowlege will increase if you have a basic understanding of what the component is, or does, before you attempt to repair it. Speaking for all of us here: We only wish you the best of luck with your project. On several occasions I have obtained much needed advice and guidance from persons here that have experience where I do not. This board is an excellent source of information and help if it relates to Mack trucks. Good Luck! Rob

Yes it is a big job not only in weight, but also the amount of hours spent getting everything to stay in place while it's support is removed. How about the amount of time it takes to get the holes drilled to locate the crossmembers properly? A mag drill is essential for this operation. Progress looks good at this point in pictures! Rob

Herb: You'd love this 1977 R model I've been working on... A real piece of work. So far, I'm up to 32 "Scotch Locks" replaced under the dash, hood, tail lamps, etc. There were splices, upon splices under the dash, and in the tailights area. I've also dug out at least two cans of expanding foam sealant, (the kind you use in your house to seal drafts) from under the dash, and where the floorboards join the cab side panels. None of this was difficult to fix correctly. Just hard to believe someone could implement such ignorance and plan to operate the truck as such. I think someone with a third grade education could have done better! Rob

No doubt Terry. Just a good opportunity for a publicity shot. I do remember the photo from earlier. Rob

Good shot Trent. I'm wondering if when it was discovered there was not have enough weight available with this setup, they staged the photo? of course reducing the elevation of the winch booms would lower the pulling angle. Rob

AGREE! I'm working at the airport this weekend so I won't get to be in the shop but tomorrow evening I'm going to run a compression check, (like I planned a few months ago) while the nozzels are out. I also pulled the lines from the pump and am going to look for a new set as these are really corroded in places. I'm thinking the structural integrity may be compromised from the pitted rust at the retention nuts, and routing/mounting brackets. As I was told, this truck had sat for 17 years in a yard before being worked with by the prior owner. Despite these minor "setbacks", it does have the foundation for being a good truck. Thanks, Rob

I pulled the nozzles out this morning and off to the pump shop I went. Not a single one of the eight was within spec. I don't recall how many were popping at under 3000psi but not one was suitable for reuse as is. Glad I parked the truck out of the way in the shop cause it will be about a week before they are done and come back. The spray pattern on four of the eight was for shit, two dribbled, one had a hole plugged solid, and one barely sprayed! I would assume that the engine should run quite a bit better next week without quite so much smoke. Hard to believe it ran so well as is. Rob

Well today I found out a few things. First off my engine is not original to the truck. I had my parts supplier chase down the engine serial number and it was fitted to a 1975 truck; mine is a 1977. The pump is also certified for a 1975 engine as stamped. It also had the "puff limiter" and "torque limiter" from the factory. The air cylinder is still on the trans, but the air line just hangs loose and unconnected. The injection pump has a plug in the end, (like yours) but I did not take it apart. The reversing valve, hose, and air cylinder are long gone. It is also stamped: PLE .857 which is the "puff limiter extension. The Mack service manual, (TS-442) has a very informative section on how this setup worked; Pretty slick for no electronics involved. I did make an appointment to have the injectors looked at on Friday. I will pull them out and they will look at them while I wait. I was surprised to see the "crack pressure" so high at 3850 psi. Most engines I've been around are at 2300 psi and lower. I really appreciate all the help with this thread. I probably won't install the "puff limiter" back onto the engine unless I can't get the smoke down by other means. Thanks again! Rob

Here are a few photos of the engine. I cannot find evidence of anything being removed by looking at the pump. Thanks Rob

I've got a TS-442 series manual that was printed in 1978, (the truck is a 1977) and will do some reading in it. I'm wondering if the timing retarder is a newer version of "Syncrovance" that the inline engines used when natural asprirated? Rob

Where did the air line(s) attach? Mine has no plugs, or open fittings anywhere on the pump. Rob

Having access to a spacer, or dividing head would be a must for accuracy. Masking plates would sure speed up the indexing. I would think that a horizontal milling machine would make short work of the external teeth needed. Do you have the capability of profile grinding for tooling? I'm not positive but think that straight cut teeth would suffice as there would be nothing driven. I'll put some thought to this idea and we'll further along. Removing the bezel from the old speedometer is not difficult, but time consuming. Take a good quality screwdriver and very slightly round the tips; Just enough that they are not sharp. Clamp the housing, (face down) into a soft jawed vise with just enough pressure to keep the housing from rotating, and begin to wedge the screwdriver between the housing, and the folded over bezel. Using just enough force to roll the bezel open about 25% of the needed amount to remove the housing, move your screwdriver about 1/32nd inch and do it again. Repeat this procedure until you are all the way around the bezel. At this point, start over, opening to about 50% of the needed opening etc. The slow, delierate movements will leave slight deformations in the bezel that will not be seen upon completion. This takes time, Do Not Attempt To Hurry The Process! When you have finally got the housing clear of the bezel, you will be able to see that the "guts" come right out with a couple of screws holding the assembly together. I used to get new bezels from an instrument parts supplier that is long gone. One of the jobs I had in H.S. was rebuilding/recalibrating gauges and that is the way we would separate them. The needle is a press fit. It is best to support the shaft with a set of side cutters, (dykes) and gently force the needle from the shaft with another tool such as a screwdriver. Once this is done, the face will come right off. Some SW gauges were riveted, some used jewlers screws to retain the face to the guts. Either way, they are easy to get apart. Now you would get to do the same with the new "donor" unit. It is much the same with the exception of having a circuit card instead of all those mechanical things. Remove the bezel, needle, and swap faces. While apart, be sure to clean/repaint, touch up the needed areas in the housing, face, needle, and wash the glass Also a good idea to replace the gasket that separates the glass from the bezel at this point. Reassembly of the bezel to the housing is also time comsuming with improvised tooling. Using your soft jawed vise, place the assembled housing into the bezel and with just enough jaw pressure to keep anything from moving, use a brass, or copper drift punch to start to fold over the bezel onto the housing. Again, only go about 25% per round to keep from breaking anything. This really doesn't take a lot of brute force to do so a light hammering is all that is needed. For final crimping of the bezel, you can use regular pliers with the jaws taped to avoid scratching or gouging the bezel, but I have a pair of vise grip sheet metal folding "duckbill" pliers that I had the correct curvature, (radius) cut into the jaws. Once set for the proper crimp, it is readily repeatable. I haven't worked in the speedo shop for 30 years and the supplier we used is long gone. I'll do some digging to see if I can get hold of just the movement and not have to buy a complete unit to destroy. Maybe save some money that way. If you do need to purchase new then speedometer heads are readily available over the counter. Just think, the second one will take you 1/2 the amount of time it does for the first! Rob

Hi Trent, the turbocharger is new as per the "moron" I purchased the truck from. I'm sure you know the deal there as I've posted it. I did have the numbers checked and it is correct for the engine. Only pulled one load with it and the boost was about 22-25psi under hard acceleration with an amazing amount of smoke, (much thicker than your picture). I've not checked into the nozzels or anything yet but the air filter element is new, and airways clear. The engine is loaded up from all of the idle time and runs very well when warmed up. It is damn near impossible to start at 30 degrees outside unless plugged in and then still takes nearly two minutes to hit on all eight cylinders. But it is very powerful when loaded! Of course I'm comparing to a END-673 in a B model!! I'm going to try to post some photos this afternoon if I can teach myself how to use the camera. Rob

I couldn't remember if the driving gear was a "crush", or friction type setup, or machined to the shaft. I would use a 3-5/8's speedometer "donor unit" and install your original face onto it, or the new "guts" into your old case. I've seen several electronic movements that would fit inside the original case. I think most any 270 degree movement would work adequately, and it could be biased, or slewed to read correctly. If you were to manufacture the correct gear for the output shaft with teeth, you could use a "hall effect" pickup to drive the new speedometer. The ones I use on gensets have an adjustment range of near 4 inches for depth, and are threaded full length. I drill the pilot hole aimed at the corresponding gear, counterbore a flat spot into the housing about 1-1/8" for the locknut to bear against, and thread the hole 3/4-16 to install the sender. Apply your 12VDC, (reference voltage) via the keyswitch, and use the remaining wire as an input to the new electronic speedometer. This would actually work pretty slick. The hardest part is getting the ratios within the window, (so to speak) of the adjustment capability of the new speedometer circuitry. Just some thought process need to be applied. I'll go further if you are seriously considering it. Rob

I just bought a new camera for the shop that takes movies. I'm gonna teach myself to use it and then get a video posted so everybody can see what this thing emmits from the stacks! Rob