Rob

Hey Larry, is there any chance you could machine a reluctor ring and shrink it onto the drive gear for the speedometer? Then you could use a newer style pulse counter type. It wouldn't be original, but would be accurate. I can't remember off the top of my head the tooth count you would need, but 8 thousand pulses per mile is very standard input to speedometers these days. Now Ford has to be 4 thousand per mile to be different! Rob

I agree but this is thick enough to thoroughly blacken whatever is on a trailer behind you. It would probably even make persons in a following car hack and cough! Rob

Hi Trent, it is a "V" style pump, but has no air lines in the front, or rear. Rob

Did Mack use a "puff limiter" on this engine? The engine runs very well with the pump governor (idle speed) recalibrated, but really smokes a lot when into the throttle. I've seen no air line as in an inline engine to the intake manifold. I keep the truck inside of my heated building and before starting the engine, use shop air to charge the tanks. That way I can start the engine as the overhead door is raising, and get outside before someone cannot breath. When the engine is warmed up at idle, a slight "blip" of the throttle sends a thick smoke cloud out of the exhaust. When accelerating, a thick, dual path of smoke remains behind me. There is a buildup of carbon soot in the stacks also. Do keep in mind the engine has not been "worked" in many years and has a lot of idle time on it. Thanks, Rob

Yes sir, Black smoke is synonymous with Mack trucks! My building is a bit larger than a car garage but two to three minutes and you are ready to open a door! Rob

I know of a guy that does the same thing you wish to. He installed a piece of vibration isolating stainless pipe and literally unclips from the upper cab bracket, and "folds" his stack down to fit into his garage. This pipe I mention looks like the flexible coupling used in the exhaust of front wheel drive cars with transverse mounted engines. It is very flexible, but expensive. Rob

This is probably one of those storys that is only funny if you were there.... My very first job was at a gas/service station, (remember those)?, and the small oil distributor that filled the tanks had a 66 GMC tanker with the V-12 GMC gas engine. It had a different sound. His bulk plant was about three blocks away as the crow flies, and about seven blocks by street route. In a weeks time, we would get three deliveries of 500 gallons of gasoline, a barrel of straight 30wt. oil, and a bulk load of 10W30, or 10W40 depending on season. This GMC tanker did not have a fuel tank that was used, it had a fuel line that was run to the tank on the back. Every time my boss would pay for gasoline he had to complain about paying for 500 gallons, but getting only 490 because that truck was sucking down his gas and it couldn't be proven otherwise! I once asked about gas mileage on that truck and if I remember correctly; Three to three and a half is what it typically acheived. That truck was finally retired in 1974. It still exists, but hasn't been ran in as many years due to the passing of the owner. Rob

A facility that I used to maintain the standby power generation at has an 855 Cummins engine that runs on natural gas. That is the only genset that when exercised, I would put plugs in my ears, and hand towels in my earmuffs! That engine is louder than the F-4's I deployed with in the Navy! Rob

I seen one of those 372 Peterbilts hauling a load of speedboats at the Goodfield, IL scales Thursday. It was solid red, very faded and flat, (like day old beer) but in nice shape. Even the aluminum wheels and tanks were flat. Hard to believe a truck that looks driven like that would haul six new, moderately expensive boats. Wish I would have had a camera. Rob

Thad, if you do that, anytime the temperature is below 32-35 degrees the heater will energize. The power wire only needs to be hot when the ignition key is in the "on" position. I know that is what you meant though. I make the same type of mistakes quite often! My air dryer was rebuilt with all new parts with the exception of the cartridge which is rebuilt. Any truck parts supplier will be able to help you with parts as this was a common dryer. Rob

I spent $94.00 rebuilding my AD-2 and that included heater, switch, element, and check valve. I removed the unit from the truck and it was easy to service. Rob

BUTT UGLY!!! Look at the Mack "A", and "E" model influence with the sculpting of the fenders. Maybe the second model year will have some improvements as I see where they are trying to go with this. Rob

I've never seen this done before but the "Bandag" retreader in my locale mounts up the casing after tread removal to find the light spot on a balance machine. I'm told he had the rim blanks balanced true for this purpose. He then marks the light spot, dismounts the tire, and retreads it placing the new tread seam just over the prior marked spot on the casing. The seam is a little heavier than the tread so it balances better. I've spoken with several persons that buy capped tires there and most are extremely pleased. I plan to also for my trucks. I don't remember anyone telling of a balance or hop problem at speed. Rob

I certainly understand mate. I've always liked the look of those trucks as the quad lamps are not common in the USA. Good job with the photos, they look great. Rob

That is an attractive truck. Would you happen to know how the quad headlamps are mounted in the Aussie trucks? Was wondering if the headlamp bowls are separate, or there is a factory produced quad assembly. Thanks, Rob

Is that a tractor that you have or know of, or a picture only that you have? Good looking unit, I like the "Roo" bar on the front and quad headlamps, and want to do similar to my R700. Rob

A guy in the next town north of me ran exclusively Mack for many years until he bought two new mid 90's Ch series with E7-400 engines. He does a lot of gravel hauling, and lowboy work for road building equipment. Neither of those engines made 250,000 miles without being overhauled. I really don't know what the problems were but I do know how he maintains his units. I do want to be fair and both of these engines were replaced with E6-350 series engines and they served much better. Both trucks are gone now, (one wrecked/scrapped) and the other traded in on a new Sterling, (the ultimate degradation). I do remember the wiring giving many problems as they seemed to be chasing "gremlins" quite a bit. I cannot speak for the E9 series as I've never even seen one myself. Neither do I hear very many people bragging on their E7 series no matter what the power setting. Damn government intervention hurt it. Sorry for the negativity. Rob

I'll be 1000# would be adequate for that application as there is not much weight. Most porta power pumps are rated at 10,000# for a 10 ton rating at the ram. Most, (like Blackhawk, Porter-Ferguson) can be turned much lower by an adjustment screw. You could use it as is if you didn't keep pumping when you got to the limit of cab travel. Rob

It is a remote reservoir and pump unit with a handle much like a hydraulic bottle jack minus the cylinder ram. Rob

If you are not interested in originality, plumb in a hand pump from a porta power. Be careful if you do this as the pressure is a lot higher. Some pumps have adjustable relief valves, some do not. Rob

This is just a guess but here goes: The common denominator you are going to need to consider is the amount of fuel consumed to do the task. Figuring .8 pounds of fuel per horsepower, per hour, for consumption yields 20.5 gallons per hour at 200 engine horsepower dissipated. This figure of course is not perfect, but it is very close assuming 85% effenciency of a turbocharged diesel engine. As far as cooling; If memory serves correctly, 200 engine horsepower can be sufficiently cooled with approximately 850 square inches, (minimum) with adequate airflow across the core. In this stationary application I feel you would need to upsize the heat exchanger, (radiator) by 1.5 to be safe as you have no "ram air" effect for airflow. I size, install, and maintain stanby power generation units and the above information is based on my experience with them only. Cooling will be of a primary concern to fit such a large radiator and fan yet retain portability. It can be done, but costly it seems. Good luck with the project! Rob

I know where a Cruiseliner is also that has good sheep metal. The glass looked good from what I could tell. I will be to the area within the next week and snap a few pictures. PM me with your email address so I can send pictures. Rob

Generally, a carrier bearing will come off of the stub shaft easily with just a tap. They are not installed tightly. Most times it is harder to get the shaft out of the truck than anything else. Rob

Has anyone had any luck with making a R model quieter inside of the cab ? Is there any sound deadening products that work well? I covered the floor in my 89 R model with Dynamat. It did not really help a lot. Why are CH models so much quieter? Dynamat is a fine product when it is applied properly. If you only applied it to the floor, it is not enough. A good portion of the noise you hear is resonance. Dynamat will need to be applied to the rear cab wall, firewall, and roof skin to quiet the cab considerably. Try this link: quiet ride solutions Rob

If you can snap a couple of photos of the area you reference, and are willing to learn how to do some fiberglass work, I can help you repair the cracks permanently, barring impact of course. Rob