Rob

Hi Dan, what type of steering is it, Garrison, Ross, Vickers?? Upon replacing the "O" rings, did you notice any scratches or gouges in the bore or the piston? Were any springs and check valves in decent shape and work freely? Trash in the system is a big culprit that leads to failure. I'm assuming your truck is either a "B" or early "R" series. I haven't seen a good rebuild kit for these drag links in years, but they are not hard to put together from off the shelf parts. I bored, and sleeved one of mine but have not used it yet. Rob

Referencing my 1978 "Chilton" manual for heavy trucks: ENDT 865 1100 ft. lbs @ 1350rpm. ENDT 866 1040 @ 1600rpm. My ENDT 865 is coupled to a six speed transmission and is a "Maxitorque" series engine. I've never seen an ENDT 866 engine but know a couple of people that have had them. Both of them had 12 speed transmissions behind them. Rob

Well Thad, I'll answer your questions best I can: The blue circle is in fact the governor of the pump as you mentioned. Under the round rear cover retained by four capscrews is the spring in which the rotating flyweights bear against via a sliding collar. Take the top off of the governor, and remove the round cover and you will be able to visibly see how the assembly works. The red circle that you picture is the lift or transfer pump. This little pump actually pulls the fuel from the tank, and pushes this fuel through the filter, (your black circle) and then to the fuel gallery in the injection pump housing. There are three lines on the filter housing as you have noted: One is for fuel inlet to the filter, one is for fuel outlet from the filter, and the smaller hose from the top of the filter cannister is an air bleed line for elimination of air entrainment within the fuel. The transfer pump should pressurize the fuel gallery within the injection pump to about 15 psi when it is in good shape. The yellow section is in fact the high pressure injection pump. The lever that is at the rear of the pump and mounted higher is the engine shut down lever. This lever when pulled to the rear pulls the rack to the rear of the pump rotating the plunger barrels to the "no fuel" position. This action shuts the engine down. The lower lever is the throttle lever. This lever when pulled acts against the spring behind the round cover on rear of governor mentioned earlier allowing (through internal linkage) the fuel rack to be pushed forward in the pump by the flyweights and collar in the governor. When the opposing forces of spring pressure, and flyweight pressure are equal, (as in part throttle acceleration) the fuel rack holds it's position not rotating the plunger barrels further and allowing the engine to maintain a steady rpm. That pump assy. really is not that difficult to work on. Best advice is to take it apart, clean it up, make sure everything operates freely and put it back together. When you have it off of the engine take the side cover off and rotate the input shaft of the pump. Make sure you don't have a spring that stays compressed, (stuck plungers do this). The springs look like little engine valve springs with small keepers. If you have one stuck in the up position, oil it up good, take a screwdriver blade wedged againt the back side of the keeper, and rap the screwdriver handle with a small hammer. It should pop free. Good luck!! Rob

I drove a county hiway dept. "plow truck" with a mechanical 400 Mack engine, (E7 series) that had a 10' mouldboard, and an 8' wing plow one weekend as a fill in driver. The truck was a tandem twin screw with a 15' bed full of cinders. I don't really know anything about automatics but this one really did not hurt for power. We had roads that were 30"-36" drifted shut and I was able to "punch through" with little effort. I'm not going to tell you I was hard on the equipment as I purposely drove easy. The side ditches are deep and the trucks will deflect sideways if rammed into firm snow. Then you could be stuck but good. Rob

Hi Thad, glad you made it home. Sounds like a real adventure. The crankshaft should roll over easy with the trans in neutral. This assumes it is not locked up from sitting. With the turbocharger seized up, there has been a lot more sitting than advertised. To pull injectors, remove bolts you mentioned before and use two rolling head pry bars and pry the injectors from the head(s). I actually have a slide hammer that threads on for doing this but the pry bar trick works well. Any injector shop will have the copper washers for when you reinstall the injectors. You can then use one of the borescope lights that are commercially available to peer into the cylinders if you like. Since it appears that the engine has sat exposed for some time, it would be a good idea to dump atf into the cylinders upon removal of the injectors to get some lube to the rings and cylinder walls before attempting to crank the engine over. The starter is 24 volt so two 12 volt car batteries wired in series will roll it over. I've started a lot of engines on the floor, just ensure you have some kind of bracing in place so it doesn't roll on you. Unless you hook up a radiator or some type of heat exchanger, you con only run for a couple mineuts before things start gettin hot. Hope this works for you. Rob

I still wonder how the "goofy" looking stacks got popular? They make about as much sense to me as 22 inch wheels with two inch sidewalls on a 1991 Chevrolet Impala that you can't align the front end any longer as the camber is so far out of whack for clearance. As you say Brad, (and I'm not in disagreance with you) to exist and work in today's world you would not use a Thermodyne powered truck with a duplex transmission. A person could get run over that way. I seen somewhere that this truck had a later Cummins engine, and by the looks of the shifter, a thirteen speed Fuller already installed. It also seems that it was on air but I could be mistaken. With this powertrain installed, the truck was already set to go down the road with today's traffic. I guess the only thing I really dislike is the exhaust stacks on this truck upon completion. I have no money invested in the project, and it is not for me, so it is not my place to criticize. For what it is worth that show to me is a falicy and I've never watched/seen it. Personally, I'm not much into graphics and do not apply them unless factory installed, but this one fits the history of the truck. As can be discerned by it's new "stance", the truck's logging days are over. One must keep in mind is that a shop "only has to please the owner". What anyone else thinks really does not matter. I will give you a case in point: A couple of years ago a gent brought in a very nice 1969 Mustang GT fastback that was Forrest Green with a light interior. He wanted the car completely repainted. The car was for his fiance' as a wedding gift. This was to be a fast paced job as she was expecting, and they were to be married before the birth. A price was negotiated and a little over a week later the car showed up on a trailer as a "rolling chassis" as agreed. Minimal body repair work was required, and by the time I put the final clearcoat on top of the "Mary Kay Pink" basecoat, I was about to cry. I see that car from time to time when the weather is nice. It is garage kept, and always meticulously maintained. It is an obvious source of pride for them and my point is this: I did not like the color then, and I do not like the color now. I respect that a product was delivered that the owner wanted, and my direct action brought that happiness to fruition. It is hard for me to imagine but if my daughter asked me to paint her B-61 pink, I would do it. (Then I know I would cry uncontrollably). No one else would like it, but if she did the effort would be of worth. I'm sure as hell not going to suggest it either!! Rob

Hi there, is there anyone near Hudson, NH that could pick a set of wheels, (three) up for me in a residential district and deliver to a Yellow Freight terminal? I have a friend in Chicago that goes to Boston quite often and was going to do it but his tractor has developed serious engine trouble so I am in need of a backup plan. I can be reached at 309-219-2070. Thanks, Rob

Is that an act of self promotion, or incrimination? Rob

Hey there, no problem. I don't like to answer questions that I'm unsure of and did not know if you meant to release the glass from the frame, or remove the frame from the door. I've replaced so much glass through the years that it is quite routine and I do not like to appear condescending. Most any questions concerning sheet metal or paint, I will answer unless I'm unsure of the basis of the question. Don't hesitate to ask as I enjoy helping others in this hobby. Best of luck with your project. Rob

Hi Tom, been wonderin how you been as we haven't heard from you in quite some time. You ever going to get over this way again? I'm with you on not wanting to sound like a "smart ass". Once the window frame is out of the truck on a bench, I usually take a heat gun and warm the seal, glass, and frame to soften the bond holding the window in the frame. Usually have to use leather gloves to shield the hands from the heat. When the unit is hot to the touch, pinch the steel frame and the glass simutaneously and pull them apart slowly. Sometimes more heat is needed but never hot enough to melt the rubber seal or break the glass. This method works equally well on any encapsulated glass, or rubber stuck due to age. Patience is the key. Another handy tool that I use is an angled gasket scraper with rounded corners. This tool does not dig into any rubber, and I usually heat it with the gun also and massage the rubber away from the glass. If reusing the original rubber seal(s), be sure to use a glass bedding compound. This is a semi fluid paste that is applied via a pump nozzel, (similar to a pump oiler) and will allow an old perimeter seal to eliminate water infiltration. I also use it on new seals as it never sets up hard and glass can be removed years later with little effort. Rob

Measure down 4 inches from the bottom of the steering wheel towards the dash and mark a line completly around steering column. Obtain reciprocating saw from toolbox and cut on line previously marked. Steering wheel comes right off effortlessly. The solution is quite simple when you think about it. Rob I actually loosen the retainer nut till the top of the nut is flush with the ending of the column threads. I then place a large washer inside the steering wheel center, butt my knees against the wheel rim at the bottom while pulling at the top of the rim, and smack the washer with a hammer. The shock to the column usually breaks the wheel loose, and the retainer nut keeps you from eating the steering wheel. Good luck!!

Need to shi!tcan the goofy looking stacks also. Rob

Thank you for your reply. HK Trucking had sent me a scan verifying that there were no spacers in this engine. The repair went flawless and no longer leaks. Thanks again to all, Rob

A little off topic but similar: A friend of mine purchased four new drive tires for a medium duty farm truck with a tag axle. He mounted all four on the outside of the used drive tires. About 10,000 miles of usage and he had eight drive tires with about 20% tread remaining. I couldn't laugh at him, (it was difficult not to) as I explained that the outer new tires carried most of any load and the inner used tires had hardly any downward pressure on them at all. I think he finally caught onto my explanation when he purchased eight new tires, and the tire seller told him the same thing. Rob

Thanks to all for the replys. I will disconnect the driveshaft before towing. It sure seems easiest that way. The truck is not a show truck by any means but simply unused and original for several years. Rob

Thank you for the explantion Glenn. It makes good sense to me to not try this with your expanation. I could just pull the driveshaft at the yoke on the front differential and tie it up for the transport I suppose. Nothing other than the drive axles would turn then. I've got a "Tiger Tool" u joint puller that makes the job easy. Thanks again, Rob

With the road speed calculator, and the engine at 2300 rpm against the governor, it looks to be about 88mph with an RTO-12513 transmission, and 4.17 rears. Sounds as if I could get a ticket that way!! Thanks again, Rob

I know we have spoken of this before but I can't remember what ratio I need to run 75mph with 11RX22.5 rubber and a RTO-12513 transmission. I'm also wanting to be between 1800 to 1950 rpm for good flat land speed. The tractor currently has 4.17 rears that I'll probably keep for one of my B models. Thanks again, Rob

Just out of curiosity: What would the result be if a truck was towed long distance with both transmissions in neutral? I don't know how the oiling system works with these transmissions and if the auxilary section is splash lubricated, or lubricated by the oil pump in the main transmission. I know my "yellow dog" was towed over 100 miles at highway speed before I got it with both transmissions in neutral and it does not appear to be hurt. The truck is a real "singer" through the driveline but with the driveshaft disconnected from the brake drum, and in high gear against the governor, the transmission is quiet; This is at least to my untrained ear. If you put the aux in neutral, and shift the main, it is also quiet so I don't think the transmission is hurt. This truck as you know is just a yard jockey and sees no real usage off my property. I don't have enough stands to effectively get the tandems up off of the floor and run the driveline live. Thanks, Rob

I know the truck has two piece axle shafts and heavy rears. It sure would be a lot of work to get this thing ready to transport without the engine running; greasy too. I would have a friend drive it, but I don't know about how mechanically sound the truck is. It has not been on the road for about 15 years or so but runs very well. Used to be a mixer truck but has had a flatbed for years and was last used for lumber delivery. Has always been kept inside so it's not in bad shape. I hope to get to paint it in the future as it is all original front to back except the bed, and without rust. Rob

I am thinking of towing a guy's truck to a show and it is a couple hundred miles away. I would need to do this with a tow bar. The truck has a quadraplex transmission. I know these have an oil pump inside but I'm wondering if it is driven by the input shaft, when the engine runs, or by the ouput shaft when the transmission is turning internally? I could let the engine idle the whole way but that is several hours which I know would not hurt as long as the towing unit did not impede sufficient air through the radiator core. Thanks, Rob

Bill, go to OldMacksRus.com. The transmission data is there. Rob

I was originally looking at that item also but when I look at my "engine stock", I really don't need it. I never received a return message from the seller on anything I had asked including how long it had been removed from the truck. The ad did not say anything about the condition, nor experience with the truck. The weight is about 2500 lbs hooked together with all the ancillary equipment as shown. The Mack engines are fairly lightweight compared to others. What would you do with something like this when completed? It could be an interesting project but remarketing with a loss in time and money is a strong possibility. Good luck to you in the perseverance of a project. Rob

Hi Larry, thanks for the input. I do not know if there are spacers or not. The pan gasket appears to be fairly new, (under all the grease buildup) and I've not had it apart. It only leaks at the one bolt and I've done nothing with it yet. Thanks, Rob

Man, I've got to quit reading this board so late at night....... I find it hard to sleep when I'm grinding on an idea. I arrived to the shop early this morning about 5:30 am and took after the throttle linkage. It adjusted right down to stalling the engine if I wanted to. Ultimately, it idles at 644-648 rpm via my hand held electronic tachometer, (it is accurate). If the engine is revved to approximately 1000 rpm, and the throttle released, the engine decelerates to 639-641 rpm and immediately stabilizes at the above mentioned figures. I did not realize that a mechanical governed engine would be that "tight" in speed regulation. I maintain standby powerplants so speed regulation is familiar to me. Now when my tool bit for the leaking buttess screw shows up......... Rob