Rob

I just use two "rolling head" prybars under the side fittings very close to the injector body. I've never had any problems on Mack engines. Rob

A hydraulic brake system that leave spots in the driveway is trouble and unsafe for operation; all kidding aside. Rob

I am getting ready to lift the cab from my RL755L next week. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and purchase a new spool of each size of the plastic brake lines to reinstall or is it alright to reuse the original? All the lines whether under the dash, or under the truck seem a little stiffer than new but are still pliable. I really don't mind the expense of using new line, just wondering if this stuff has some kind of service life. The wiring is mouse chewed all to hell in the dash so I'll build a new harness complete for it. Damn little varmits had no problem eating a good portion of the insulation from most of the dash harness.

Hey thanks Joe, I'd really like to have a matching air seat for my wife. I'm sure her back would appreciate it!! Rob

Will do Trent. Maybe you could help me out a bit in your locale. I am looking for another air ride seat for the passenger side. My driver's seat is a "Level-Aire", marketed by Bostrom, but built by Lear-Siegler Inc. The seat is long discontinued and I would like to have another just like it. If one cannot be had, I will install a standard available air seat. The current seat is a small fixed type. If you get to the Peoria area anytime soon, look me up and I'll take you to where my interior is being done. Rob

I've got my interior parts (complete) into the upholstery shop as we speak being remade to original. I thought about reusing the imprinted bulldogs that are on the door cards, and cab back storage panel, but decided on a little different style that will show up better. This is a bit expensive to have done, but it will be nice upon completion. If you need patterns for missing panels, let me know as I have directed the upholstery shop to not destroy anything original. Everything is to be new for this application, and I will keep the originals for patterns. My truck has a full headliner, (with side skirts), overhead console, door cards, kick panels, full cab back panel, and windshield pillar covers, plus sunvisors. The dash is being redone also but it is covered foam glued to the metal framework. Rob

Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram for these trucks? I know my truck with a Caterpillar engine w/Brakesaver will be different, but I would like to have something to start with. Thanks, Rob

Jack each front tire off of the ground and hold a piece of chalk at the centerline of the tire tread while a friend spins the tire to make a line perfectly centered. Now that both tires have these lines, measure the distance from one line to the other (both front and back). Compare the measurements and set the front measurement 1/8" closer than the rear. This will be 1/8" toe in and should get you closer to needed specs. Without bending or shimming the axle, this is about all you can do but it should suffice. Before you adjust the tie rod ends for your toe setting, make sure the steering wheel is centered where you want it. Rob

When I was in the Navy based in Norfolk, VA, I frequented Tidewater Mack quite often as they were very good about supporting B models at the time. It was either late March or early April 1988 that a new CH model showed up on the lot. It was not for sale but rather road testing. I remember looking at it and not thinking it was ugly, but rather that Mack had gone "mainstream" with this design. Other than the big grille (plastic) and large "Mack" letters across the front, nothing was outstanding about it. Myself and one of the mechanics talked about how different these new trucks were as neither had seen one before, and what we thought was coming. Rob

In Illinois (and most other states), if a wrecked motor vehicle is nine or more model years old, the original owner can elect to keep the salvage vehicle for a percentage of the approximate salvage value, (this is assuming one had adequate insurance coverage, or was not at fault in the collision). Say for instance the vehicle is worth $5000.00 average retail. The owner would be entitled to average retail value plus or minus any additions, or betterment(s). Now depending on salvage value of the said wreck, the amount to purchase is somewhere between 10-20% of the average retail value at a salvage auction. In this example, $500.00 to $1000.00. 20% is a very high factor with the exception of SUV's and pickup trucks at this time where 30-35% is the norm. This is the amount the insurance thinks they can get at the salvage pool auction. It is also the dollar amount the owner can retain ownership of the wreck upon signing a release of liability for the insurance company. Generally a rebuilt engine on an older vehicle will only give you nickels on the dollar for an increase in value; Unfortunately, the vehicle is still a 1992 model year no matter how you slice it. Most times a fair adjuster will be happy to work with the original owner to avoid the processing fees associated with the disposal of the wreck. Like I said, this is Illinois, but most states are similar in operation and laws. Hope this helps. Rob

Is it a front loaded single, or double reduction carrier? It would make a significant difference in driveshaft length. Rob

I think it could be a great idea with very precise engine managment at all speeds and loads. Electric solenoids to operate the valves would substantially reduce frictional and parasitic losses under all operatiing conditions. This would boost not only output power per cubic inch displacement, but fuel economy also. Keep in mind, solenoids that are properly sized to counter valve spring pressure would have to be quite large and draw a reasonable amount of current to ensure reliability/durability. If the vehicle electrical system is boosted to say 48VDC; This would reduce the physical size of the needed hardware, and wiring components. 48VDC is the upper limit that should be used in an automobile type application as higher voltages become dangerous because of "arc over" dangers. Rob

Thanks for the link Thad, I'll get a look at it. Rob

I took the floorboard out of my R model last evening and some gorilla had broken two studs off in the aluminum housing. I don't have any leak that I'm aware of but would like to replace the valve anyway. How do you tell one from the other? Thanks, Rob

Always great to hear a success story Chris. Good Job!! Rob

Hi Joe, the center three marker lamps on my A-40 are original to the truck and are red. My grandpa always had red center marker lamps on his B models. The B model he drove personally had green lamps in the center, and the outers were amber. I suppose the law wasn't as strict in those days. Rob

Hi there, this operation is not that difficult with a few simple tools: Use a screwdriver or small (1/2" or so) width chisel to remove the sealant that is poured into the gutter. This will usually come out in small chunks. If you use a heat gun to warm the area, the job is a bit easier. An air hammer with a 3/4" flat chisel does a nice job of cutting the roof skin where it transitions from a verticle plane to horizontal in the pinch weld area. Be XTRA careful where the roof skin goes around the corners of the cab as the clearance is much tighter. I used a 3" wheel grinder to barely cut through the exterior skin as my cab's inner and outer skin actually touched. I've repaired others that had 5/16ths to 3/8ths clearance, so yours could be anywhere between. Don't worry about removing the part of the roof skin that is welded to the rain gutter area. Take a small grinder an grind off any "flashing" that is sticking up till you have a smooth, paint free area. On the replacement roof skin, punch or drill a series of 1/4" to 5/16" holes spaced about 4 inches apart around the entire perimeter of the skin of the horizontal flange at the 50% width of this flange. This will be for "plug welding" with a mig welder. I've seen several panels of this type installed by gluing and plug welding the edges and I do not support this method. I've seen several failures of glued panels and this is my own opinion. After brushing or spraying weld thru primer on the bare steel and plug welding about 100 holes, and grinding the welds flush, I then apply epoxy primer to the area via a paint brush. The next day, the roof skin is prepped, epoxy primer applied to the complete panel and flowable seam sealer applied to the pinch weld area. A flowable seam sealer will self level/seal and get into any area where where water would get into. A couple of hours later, the area can be prepped for paint. Seam sealer takes and holds paint well so no primer is needed on it. I strongly recommend the use of epoxy primer as it is great at bare metal adhesion and I feel unsurpassed at corrosion protection. Hope this helps in your repair. Rob

Don't mean to discredit: Carfax is not worth the paper it is written on most times. It is only a database that for the most part is inacurate at best. If a car is repaired by an insurance claim, and repaired at a participating entinty, it can be accurate, and I do mean CAN. If the vehicle is repaired at an independent shop, (such as mine) it will not be input to this database, no matter how severe the damage. In this area, only large DRP's (Direct Repair Program participants) tied in with the insurance companies input to the Carfax database. A person still needs to get a "look see" before making any type of purchase as Carfax is only a tool and should not be used as "God's Blessing" that all is well and honest. Keep in mind that a dealer is there to sell, and a private individual is trying to do the same thing. Rob

Hi James, I've had a lot of vehicles paint stripped via media, and soda blasting through the years. The shop I use for this work uses virgin media initially, then sweeps up, and blasts again to remove the "stubble" that remains. There is very little finish sanding work to do on bare steel or e-coat upon completion. I've investigated the portable unit(s) from the company in Houston, and they seem to be a nice unit, but expensive so I did not purchase. I can usually get a complete car blasted for $400.00 to $450.00, (medium sized) and it would take a lot of vehicles blasted to offset the purchase cost. This is less expensive than an employee plus chemical stipper would cost to perform paint stripping. An an example last year we blasted an 87 LTL 9000 Ford cab shell complete, doors, and back 2/3rd of frame and the cost was $600.00. Granted this tractor only had the original paint so the job was fast. This is also where I learned that you don't blast fiberglass with coarse media. The rocker panels on the LTL series trucks are glass and the one on the driver's side was damn near destroyed. My RL755L has an RTO 12513 transmission, and is on 11R22.5 tires. We were runnning 68 to 70 miles an hour on the way home and the truck did not have a problem staying on my rear bumper at these speeds. The carriers are stamped 4.17, but the guy driving said there was more pedal to go so I don't really know for sure if all is original. Also, the high idle is turned down to 1800 rpm, instead of 2150 as per the service manual. I was talking with the craftsman doing my interior today and we have decided to go with a two color "tuxedo" scheme of the same, or factory "diamond tufted" pattern with buttons. The embossed bulldogs in the door cards, and cab back panel were judged too far deteriorated (from the original panels) to sew into new panels so we elected to embroider my corporate logo into the same areas of the replacement panels. The tu-tone color scheme with be light gray, and burgundy, with black carpet on the bottom of the door cards as original. The color break will be at the bottom of the dashboard, (it is black) and there up will be light gray. The inside painted areas of the cab will remain matte black. I plan to paint the exterior burgundy with some type of exterior silver striping that has yet to be determined. Sould look nice with aluminum rims on the steer axle, and spokes with hubcaps on the drives. This truck in itself is quite rare, (one of twenty-three produced) and is to be my personal truck. I will use it solely to pull my other trucks and equipment. Originally this was purchased minus the engine to install my 12V-71 Detroit engine into but a "twist of fate" had me purchase the interest in the truck complete. Like you mentioned earlier, long hood, big motor, what a way to go truckin! Always liked that look myself. As much as I like this R model, it still doesn't top my A-40 in the favorites dept. Rob

Hey James, how is your R-700 progressing? Gutted the cab on mine yesterday, broke both doors down and removed all glass tonight. Surprising how little rust I've located, (except roof mentioned earlier). I will pull drivetrain out next week to start on bare chassis when cab is at the media blaster. I want to get all three coats of paint removed before any work on the cab. Hope you're making some money with yours by now. Rob

I had two, one held 44 quarts, and the other held 60. This was plus filter(s), so I don't know the exact amount. I put the initial amount in, started the engine and then finished by topping off. Rob My fat fingers: The smaller pan did hold 34 quarts, not 44. Rob

The first time I drove an R model was in June of 1976 and it was new; I did not like it. For some reason, I could not get used to that damn 5 speed transmission, and it did not have the "feel" of a B model, or R-190 IH. This was for a job my grandpa arranged for me to shuttle tractors between the Mack dealer for maintenance, and the plant. They still had quite a few B models working at that time. It was definately different to climb up into and was a bit rough on the ole shins for the first few entries. What really biased me against the R models was when I was backing a trailer into a dock, and really wheeling the steering wheel around, I caught the little finger on my left hand in the wing window rail and broke the knuckle!! Well bitchin to my grandpa did absolutely no good, (except being reminded that I was still young enough to take an ass whippin from the old man) so I learned to be a bit more careful. I purchased a 72 R model dump truck a few years back and really liked it. It had quite a bit more power loaded than my A-40 dumper so I wanted to use it for the upcoming project which was my shop. After a few loads of fill sand, the frame gave way in two places and I never got around to repairing it. The engine and trans were sold, and the carcass sits on my property. The A-40 finished the job as it always does when called upon. In November of last year, I acquired my first R model I plan to keep long term; RL755LST35359. This truck is really quite nice. The interior is at an upholstery shop being remade original as it was obviously an owner/operator truck. I phoned the original owner whom did custom order it. It is also the only Mack I've owned that did not have a Mack engine. This one is a Caterpillar 1693TA. It runs very well despite an oil leak that is too bad to tolerate. It had new door shells but the roof corners were rusty and thanks to ole Barry I now have a new roof skin, but after removing the old, more rust issues have come to light. Funny thing is that there is no structural deficient rust in the lower parts of the cab, just the roof area. It looks as if the 72 is to give up some needed parts for it's younger cousin. If I were in the truck driving profession, I would acquire an older R, or RW series truck/tractor. Also the 98 model of RD model was appealing to me. I'm especially fond of the long, squared off hood look/design. The cab on these series I find very easy to see out of, and with a 20" steering wheel, are quite comfortable to drive. (I'll never forget the finger incident). Yes, I do like the older stuff much better than anything built in the last 25 years or so. My favorite of all the trucks I have, or have had is my A-40. It is small, hard to see out of, hard to steer (especially loaded), and has little power, but has never failed to perform the job I ask of her. In my opinion, this truck has personality. People really "rubber neck and wave" when I'm out with her, loaded or empty, and to me "It just don't get no better than that". Rob

A word of advice on aftermarket door shells from experience. You truly get what you pay for. If you purchase new aftermarket door shells (produced in Taiwan via ebay etc..) be sure to undercoat them well on the inside, and also purchase 3M brand sound insulator pads (they cut down on resonance considerably) about 12"X12" and stick to the center of the door skin on the inside. These pads are not so much to dampen noise, (who the hell can hear much in an R model anyway), but to partially eliminate "skin flex". The aftermarket door shells have a lot more "flex" when mounted and I've seen 3 sets cracked around the mirror brackets, and door handles in my shop alone. I know Mack OEM parts are expensive, but if you go the extra money, prep and install them correctly, it will be money well spent in the long haul. Rob

I did not purchase new doors. They were new OEM about 18 months ago from the previous owner, I only cleaned and oiled the moving parts as they were a little stiff to operate. Rob

It will probably take a person about an hour and a half to gut the first door and build up the replacement. Will probably take about 1/2-2/3 that time to do the second. I did both of mine in under an hour but that doesn't count the cleanup and greasing of the working parts. I did not need to replace anything. If you are not experienced in this kind of operation, only do one door at a time to use the second as a guide if you get lost. Rob