Rob

I can tell you that in the Communist Republic of Illinois that it is no problem to plate a vehicle that is 25 years plus in age with antique plates. The cost is $37.00 for five years and pro-rated within the window. I have my 51 A-40, 57 B-61, 58 B-61 plated with antique plates. Of course I cannot use the truck(s) commercially, or for hire but who is to say the loads of fill sand or dirt, or gravel is not for my personal use at the shop? Most of the local folks, (including law enforcement) are pleased to see the old girl(s) work, and give me a wave as we pass. Antique registration exempts from a state inspection also. I've never inquired about IFTA, and have never been out of state with my trucks so I can't answer for that part. The law explains that usage is limited to travel to and from expositions, service and repairs to the vehicle, and occasional testing of the vehicle. I know several people that have tried the antique plates on older cars and driven them daily, and been ticketed for non compliance to the registration. I'm just saying I've never had any problems, but never had to deal with anyone except local persons, and they know me. Rob

We got about 5-6 inches 20 miles west of Peoria, IL. Peoria got 8 inches. Havana Illinois got 12 inches and it's 30 miles south of us. It's damn windy and a lot of impassable drifts around. Rob

On my 64 B-61 I get water in mine ever so often during the winter. I think it is the snow getting sucked in during operation. I installed a new rubber seal as mine was deteriorated several years back after first acquiring the truck because the pan was nearly 50% water. Rob

Thanks for your interest in helping!! I really want to get onto the show circuit this spring. This trailer needs several crossmembers replaced but the main rails are appearing to be sound. If it is the right trailer for me, I can get it ready for use through the remainder of the winter months. Rob

Hi there, I'm looking to acquire an RGN lowboy trailer. Is there anyone around Ringe, NJ that could look at this for me for an outside "unbiased" opinion? The trailer says rusty and is a 1967 model, but from the pictures, looks like the main rails are sound. I'll be glad to compensate for any help. Thanks, Rob rob@autoaffair.com I made a mistake!! The trailer is in Ringe, New Hampshire!! It is located at 202 Truck and Equipment, telephone: (888)688-4561, Talk to Tim, or Steve. Thank you gents, I really appreciate your help. Rob

This gets done quite often actually. Most any good automotive upholstery shop will be able to fabricate up a headliner with stiff cardboard (actually oilboard) and tape to hold the shape. This pattern will often be used to manufacture the finished product. 1/8th inch plexiglass is really good to use for a pattern or template if you use a hot air plastic welder. One can really control the application of heat with pinpoint accuracy to bend and form the plastic. Rob

Also the water pump, pulley(s), and crank damper. You will need to modify your front engine mount. Rob

And to add to what Herb said; Pull a load with it if possible. Rob

Appreciate your time Kelly. Rob

Hi Chuck and Herb: As Chuck explained is what the problem was with mine. Number 3 plunger was stuck in the up position and would not allow the rack to move. I was able to (with a screwdriver) get the plunger to pop back down but being cautious, (and never having a pump apart) I wanted to see what made her tick so to speak. After I cleaned everything up I used a very fine paint stick to make index marks before anything was physically removed to eliminate confusion, (I do confuse easily LOL) and from there it was just take it apart, clean, and reassemble, reinstall. I did not have to set the timing as the pump only mounts to the engine one way and if the engine is not turned over with the pump off, it will not be out of time. It now runs great again. This is the truck (for my daughter) that will get the engine up your way Herb. This engine will become another spare and if CleviteKelly can locate a suitable rebuild kit, I will "freshen" it up a bit just so it is ready. Rob

As Herb said, or in the case of my 57 B-61, one plunger was corroded and struck. I took the pump off of the engine, removed the side cover, and all delivery valves, cleaned everything in the solvent tank with fresh solvent, and then worked all little pieces parts gingerly until all was free again. It was quite simple to do, just time consuming. After re-installing the pump, the engine runs very well. I've got a rebuild book for your pump if it is an APE type pump and will copy if it will help you. Rob

Isn't it great to see a worthwhile truck go to a good home? Best wishes with the project. Rob

Hi Kelly, thanks for the reply. I have several Thermodyne series engines, some in trucks, others on the floor, and most could use rebuilding, or "freshening up". They are good stable, and reliable engines, but obtaining parts, (especially cylinder kits) are expensive, and increasingly rare. I'm only referring to the non fire ring engines. I do think there would be enough interest in putting together a complete engine parts package as the B model series of Mack truck seems to be the most desirable to restore and maintain. I'm sure I'm speaking for the group as a whole and we would appreciate any help you could provide. Thanks in advance. Rob

Hi Kelly, let me also welcome you to the forum. It would be great if you could convince the powers that be to reproduce a reasonably priced inframe, and out of frame engine rebuild kits for the non fire ring 673, and 711 diesel Thermodyne series engines so many of us have. Parts are getting increasingly difficult to obtain, especially liners, and piston sets. Thanks, Rob

Pardon me on this one but I don't see any reason to take offense as there was no reference to yourself or anyone personally. We all have values and beliefs and they should be cherished and respected by all, even if we don't believe the same. I know, I should have been a preacher...... Rob

My 676 engine with an RT-910 transmission behind it did just that. I did not like the combination as the engine never seemed to be in it's torque band. Rob

My engine fills the bay front to back. There is no doghouse protruding into the cab but it is a tight fit to get a hand behind the engine against the firewall. Rob

1693TA Caterpillar in my RL755L displaces 893 cubic inches, 14.6 Ltr. 425 hp@ 2100rpm, 1275 pound ft. torque@1400 rpm. These figures are conservative I'm told by Caterpillar engineers. Rob

Hi Trent, that was the original plan until I found out how few of these trucks were produced. The other party also needed funds so the balance (engine) was acquired to keep the truck together. I'm currently working on another long hood Mack chassis, but there are title problems, (divorce) and it will be a while before that is settled. The Detroit will have a home in the future. Rob

Hi Jeff, thanks for your reply. I don't want to take some vendors word for the quality of their parts but rather "real world" experiences such as yours. I have not read any literature on any FP diesel warranty; I just know from being in this part of the world, (Peoria, IL) that the Cat dealer will only recommend factory parts. Carquest, has no listings for the engine in their catalogs. NAPA only lists a head set and it the same cost as Caterpillar branded parts. I switched paint vendors and manufactures due to similar warranty issues when the product failure was clear and without doubt, so I realize what you are referencing. Rob

I'm looking for input on this path of progression: I purchased a factory Caterpillar service manual for my engine in the RL755L within the correct serial number block and was able to learn a great deal from just the printed material. The first thing I was able to figger out is how to get the oil leaks stopped from the cam boxes, and how to hook up the "Brakesaver Retarder". After reconnecting the air lines to the trolley valve for the "Brakesaver", and reconnecting the air line to the oil manifold, I was then ready to apply air pressure. (This system uses engine oil to effectively fill a cavity with both rotating, and stationary vanes to effect engine braking). Upon application of air pressure to the manifold via the trolley valve, a lot of engine oil immediately puked from the flywheel housing onto the shop floor. This told me on short order why the air lines were disconnected!! Somebody simply didn't want to fix it!! Alright, this now brings me to the "meat" of my quandry: Citing that I'm going remove the engine from the chassis, dissassemble the top end to repair/replace leaking gaskets, remove rear housing on engine to rebuild/repair the "Brakesaver" unit, and roll bearings into the lower end, should I use a genuine Caterpillar "out of frame" master kit, or one from FP Diesel, (the aftermarket system of Federal Mogul)? The Caterpillar kit is about $700.00 more in cost, (before my wife's employee discount) than the "fleet" pricing I can get through my shop. The engine runs very well now, but leaks a lot of oil at idle. I'm more of a "tinkerer" rather than much of a mechanic as most of you know and this will be my first Caterpillar engine to work on. If I'm going to do the job, I want to do it right so there is no need for a second go round. I would be interested in opinions of those that have used "aftermarket" parts in their repairs vs. genuine OEM parts. I've been told by a good friend about his 350 Cummins engine not faring well with two aftermarket rebuilds, and it's service with genuine Cummins parts. Thanks, Rob

I kinda admire the look of the "Aussie" trucks. I'm sure most are an adaptation of ideas to get the job done as efficiently as possible. High horsepower ratings and heavy spec(s) seem to be the normal, (from what we always see in print) for all of the "road train" trucks. Rob

Again, naturally I did not have a camera with me. I seen this very same truck on a jobsite yesterday, and it was not running. In fact it had a full load of "riprap" in the bed, and was actually broken in the middle!! The cab protector had smashed into the top of the truck breaking both windshields and destroying the cab front, the front of the dump bed had physically pushed the rear cab panel and roof forward about 8 or so inches closing the distance between the steering wheel and cab back! Also, driveshaft was bent in a large "V" shape, and pulled from the splines. From the looks of it, a "smaller" man would probably have not been too affected, but a "larger" driver surely would have been a bit "cramped" in the cab. The truck is definately beyond repair now. The driver's door was forced open, and the outer skin was buckled away from the inner door shell, and the glass was busted. Wasn't anybody around so I couldn't ask questions but I'm going to go back this afternoon (with camera) to get some photos. I can't believe someone would try to work that truck with the frame and rear suspension in the condition it was deteriorated to. Rob

Thanks Barry, RL755LST35359 1978 Model year. If you could, please reasearch the inner upper, rear cab panel also. The upper Pinch weld around the backglass is rotted away. I would just as soon replace with new as opposed to cutting my other cab apart. The cab outer rear panel is in good shape. On another note, have you had any luck with a slider back glass assy. for the rear on "R" models? Thanks again Barry, Rob

Hey Barry, is the rain gutter available for the R models separate from the other cab panels and parts? Mine is a bit rusty after removing the roof skin this evening. I can make new but if it is available; sure would save some time. Thanks, Rob