Rob

Barry, I can't even get access to the area to edit it. That is the problem I'm experienceing. Thanks, Rob Belay my last...... I just checked again and now it shows the area to edit the information. I've never seen that area show up before. Thanks, Rob

Hi Barry, how do you edit or change profile information? What I'm asking is the area of "additional information" that lists the type of truck you have that is under the posted avatar. Mine states "57 B-61", and I can't seem to edit or change that setting. Thanks, Rob

There are none available in the aftermarket that I've been able to locate either. They have been obsoleted. This applies to Victor/Reinz, Fel-Pro, and McCord, and Detroit Gasket. Rob

Most frames aren't too difficult to drill. I use cobalt drill bits due to higher "red hardness" meaning they will stay sharp longer with a lot of pressure exerted upon them. When I chop a frame, I use a plasma cutter as the heat outside the cut zone is much less intense, and it leaves a nicer cut requiring less cleanup. Rob

There is one of them just north of me about 40 miles. It is showing it's age, but runs well and does what is asked of if. I'll post a picture if I can find one. I noticed on this conversion that the frame adapters for the tilt hood covered the stamping of the vin on the passenger side front frame rail. Both BCR trucks I have seen have been this way. Rob

Hi Joe, thanks for the reply. This truck is not one that is used. I was playing with it as there was a challenge to make it run better. It is a 64 B-61 and was not built with a turbo from the factory. I don't know that much about diesels in general, but the later models get a lot more usability from the same size engine, so I figgered what the hell, why not try. This engine to the best of my knowlege, has never been apart in the lower end. I put it all back together the last time with the original pump, injectors, and exhaust manifold, so it is back to bone stock and runs very well as is. I've probably put maybe 300 or so miles on it since last year and that is empty so there is no real usage. Thanks, Rob

Joe, that is exactly what I did with a "711" motor. Had the pump rebuilt for more power with 11m barrels & plungers, did away with "syncrovance", adjusted timing and added a hopped up turbo. Upon chaining the truck to a dyno, the horsepower and torque were much higher, but I could not keep head gaskets in the engine. After three attempts to make 300+ reliable horsepower, and blowing the head gasket at #2 cylinder each time, I finally removed both heads, had them completely rebuilt, (including new valves, springs, and guides), put it all back together to have the same thing happen again!! I have not given up on the project, just ran out of time. I "straight edged" the block, and it is within tolerance, and the engine does not burn oil so I therefore am not willing to dump a lot of money into rebuilding it. Would have liked to blame the head gasket manufactures, (Victor/Reinz, and Fel-Pro) but with the blown part of the head gaskets at the same place each time, I'm not so sure. If you have any ideas of what I may have done wrong, please give me some advice!! Rob rob@autoaffair.com

I've purchase many sets of lamps from this individual, (papsnme) on ebay and have not been dissapointed. I did, and do ask a lot of questions before purchasing most anything that I can't physically see or know about. On the cab clearance lamps, he openly stated that he had no chrome ones available, and they did have the silvery "spray paint" look, also were new in their NAPA "Visa-Lite" boxes. I had them plated also, and am surprised the cost has gone up so significantly on these lights. Just another opinion for what it's worth. I sure don't mean to step on any toes. Rob

Hi there, I've bid restoring a B61S to much the same specification that you line out @ $7500.00 to include dissassembly, stipping, blasting (media,sand, and soda), paint and materials (solid color basecoat/clearcoat), reassembly, plus any replacement parts or sublet labor. The cab will be removed from the frame, and the cab and doors gutted. I did not see any rust through during inspection and any repair would be additional. The truck is scheduled to come into work on the 9th of January 2006. Hope this gives you some idea of the costs involved. As you can ascertain, it is not inexpensive to hire the work done. Rob

Art, I usually use a non hardening glass sealant in the trough and against the steel pinchweld when installing a rubber set glass. Most times with brand new weatherstrips, you do not need to take this precaution. But with the B model cabs, and the way the curvature is at the point you mention, I use it. To test for your leakage point, put an air line in the cab through the holes in the floor with an open air fitting, (point it away from everything), roll up the windows and shut the doors, turn on the air to overpressurize the cab, and spray soap suds around the perimeter of the windshields. You will see bubbles at the point of leakage. Most autobody supply jobbers and retailers will have a product suitable for this use. The product I use comes from our glass supplier. Rob

Yup. One of my wifes' uncles has one and uses it for shagging storage trailers to & fro. It runs like a new one. Rob

You have to give "Buck" a break here. Health problems are to blame, not intellect. Rob

Dale, it's not that big of job to change heads or gaskets in that engine. I can have one apart, and cleaned up ready to put together in 2 manhours after the fluids are drained. Of course I did that four times on my "yellow dog" project last year, and experience is a great teacher. Air tools help trememdously also. I built a jig for pulling the heads (straight out of a service manual) and use the "cherry picker" to hold the weight. You're right; the cost will be high for this type of work. Rob

My opinion? Fugly. I think it would look better with a mixer drum on the back. If the front hood or fenders are "break away", it would be very practicle to not have to glass or repair half the hood upon impact. Rob PS: It's hard to get enthused with anything Mack/Volvo is producing these days, at least for me.

I dunno Mike. This question is like asking me to trade off my "Shiela", and we know she gets used when called upon. "She" is part of my family. I have seen you use that truck, and it remains very useful to you at times. The main question I would be asking myself would be "What will i realistically do with the LT"? What I mean is if it is going to be a yard ornament, I would probably have a hard time making the trade as it is quite rare and would deteriorate from exposure. If on the other hand, there is a definate possiblility, with clear vision of restoration, or usage in the future of the truck, then a trade is much more feasable; At least to me. I base this stance on a couple of variables; One: I personally have seen too many unfinished project vehicles due to lack of funds, or adequate commitment for completion. Two: A rare vehicle that is purchased/traded and essentially "stored" without being worked with removes the possibility of the rest of the public from enjoying it at a later date. Don't take me wrong as I'd like to own an LT series also, and would have a difficult time with the same scenario you have. I have three unfinished projects in my shop now, my grandpas' "AB", and two "B-61's"; But my 31+ years in the auto body industry tells me "I don't need another project until something is completed first". With the exception of "bragging rights", a project that is incomplete is virtually useless as most will attest. My final thoughts would be "Would the LT be more useful or interesting to me"?, and "am I tired of, or can I do without that B model"?. I would also ask myself, "would I be better off making the trade"? Everyone has a different outlook and value placed upon trucks or other physical possessions, and all is in proper perspective if family's valued input remains first. With that I ask, "What does your family think"?; they are the only contributors that truly matter. Best wishes with your decision. Rob

Trent, for an APE American Bosch pump; As you look at the hand primer pump bottom, the rearmost treaded hole is the outlet. The forward threaded hole is the inlet. The discharge will feed the fuel filter housing (at the bottom). The top of the filter housing feeds via hose into the injection pump plunger gallery via the front upper hole in the injection pump itself. The rear upper hole is the spill return to tank for excess fuel. If you tee a gauge into this rear fitting, the hand primer pump should provide about 12-15 psi pressure. This pressure forces fuel into the plunger barrels. Your truck has not run in a while, so I would check this pressure. If it were mine, I would go ahead and rebuild the primer, or lift, or transfer pump whatever you want to call it. I've got a factory service manual for this pump if you want a copy. Just give me a call. Rob 309-245-2070 (eves)

I think you're doing a very good job Barry. Rob

I found these on the net this morning to further clarify how these things operate, and a little history. Hope you find the information useful. Rob Here are a couple of links: http://transportation.centennialcollege.ca...akes%202-02.pdf http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2001/12/044a0112.asp

This thread interests me as I've been told the E-6 350 that we have has some kind of engine brake on it. How do you tell the difference between a "Jake Brake" and a "Dynatard" engine brake? This engine has a micro switch mounted in the throttle linkage travel path, and has a single wire running to the center of each rocker cover. I've never taken the covers off so I don't know what's under there. I've never owned anything with an engine brake before (or pulled a load with one), so this is new to me. Rob

Hi Trent, I was in Chicago last weekend (Cubs game) and tried to reach you but was called back to work shortly after. I'm going to be up there again in a couple of weeks and will call. Thanks, Rob

I have a pair of "Guide" headlamp buckets that are complete, (except the male plug) that I removed from an "L" series Mack in 1976 or 1977. These were from my grandpa's truck fleet of many years ago. There are no dents to the body(s) but they could use some "dings" repaired and a rechrome to the bezels. I can forward pictures if need be. I prefer to not sell these but would rather trade them to someone that has a legitiment need for a restoration. Hopefully this can happen. One thing I do need besides leaf springs as posted earlier, is a complete driveshaft assy with 1700 series u-joints for a B model. The truck we are working with for my daughter has a driveshaft modified for a Roadranger transmission, and I would like to keep it as is. Thanks, Rob 309-245-2070 (eves)

I have both a B-61 and a B-62. The only difference I can tell between the two trucks (cab wise) are the dash panel in the B-62 (gas powered) is there is no tachometer. There is no hole for one either. All else is the same with the exception of some minor wiring issues. Rob

We use Akzo-Nobel products. U-Tec is the brand of epoxy primer/sealers we use as there are four different colors available. We also use a non induction time activator. This product costs about $80.00 for a gallon of epoxy, and $35.00 for a quart of activator. I don't readily recall the numbers for the products, but any good paint vendor will be able to help you no matter what the brand. I can't stress enough the benefit to using an acid etch before you apply any undercoating to bare steel. The adhesion enhancement is well worth the cost, even if you use a direct to metal primer. Rob

Hi David. Primers and other undercoats were never meant to be exposed to the elements for any period of time. Most are porous, (hence the rust coming back through) and UV radiation further breaks them down chemically. Prime coats, (both surfacers and sealers) are meant to be topcoated before exposure to any elements. With nearly 50% exposed bare steel, and the remaining original paint film thickness reduced by prior sanding, I would highly reccomend that you have the remaining paint removed as the surface integrity has been compromised. After thorough preparation, and cleaning, a phosphoric acid based "wash primer" could be applied to the bare substrate. This would be followed by a double coating of an epoxy primer/sealer. Epoxy primer/sealers are not waterproof either but if the vehicle stays inside as you work with it, many years will pass before you have problems again. Clearcoats are made to bind themselves to a compatible basecoat color. Undercoats are not compatible with clearcoats as the chemical structure is different. I would not spend youR money for clear and activator until you are ready to apply final color. We use a lot of epoxy in the shop as it has worked well many years for us. Rob

This is along my level of knowlege, but I need more information as to how much bare metal is showing, what grit of sandscratch are you trying to work with, what your final topcoat will be, and what your budget will allow etc. Rob