Rob

We had a 920 that was articulated. 3304 engine for power and powershift transmission.

The shoes are the basic "P" design and they are easily replaced. You need to purchase the newer style hardware and rollers to retain the new style shoes.

I have the cast aluminum style on my B-673 and had them relined at about $350.00. You can however replace them with Rockwell "P" series shoes with little effort and they are much less expensive. My 72, 73, and 78 R models have the later style.

You apparently didn't get your 15 minutes of fame when the subject was new so trying to make up for it? Maybe my negative numbers intelligence level preclude me understanding just what you are attempting to prove other than making yourself look like a fool? Sounds like you were either lucky as not part of the larger prize, or were not involved. Either way, count your blessings. Best talk to an attorney before you start referencing suing anyone for something several years aged. Statute of limitations applies and IF, (big IF) you get something filed, I'm sure countersuits will follow shortly after your frivolous claims are tossed. It is the way the judicial system works. Think with your brains, not your attitude.

Mine is an OTC and I'll get a photo of it for you. It is however the prior edition from what is available now. It has arms that bolt to the spokes and a handwheel to elevate the assembly so no weight is placed upon the wheel end seal. I'll be back out there tonight and will grab a photo.

I have a hub and drum dolly for the task. No physical lifting of the heavy members that way.

Yup. Seen several 237, (ENDT-675) honked on and busted the blocks. Everything has limits and the E-6 series was at it's limit with the 300+, (IMO) as it wasn't strong enough to tear itself apart, but was strong enough to yield GREAT service if taken care of. I've said that same thing for a lot of years and never been proven wrong yet.

I always like spokes on the drives. Budd on the steer. Lot's easier to change due to weight and balance. Steel Budd on the rear were heavy for a wimp, (me). Looks like he's sporting a flat on the rear outer in the photo.

Takes three times the horsepower to move that same load nowadays. Probably had your choice of "easy bake oven", or luxury of 2/40 air conditioning, along with free cab refrigeration in the winter months too.

I'm old school and still use gasket shellac, (Indian Head). I only use silicone if the surface is imperfect; however I like the gray Permatex, (high torque) under a rigid bolted cover like that. Never have worked on that late of E6 I'm aware of however.

I've used them both along with "Dawson's". Go with a Jones if you can justify the expense.

Stoned or sanded off they will probably be fine. Water in the bottom of the bowls? Tom get you fixed up?

Can you ask? There are seemingly many avenues that were not tried or evaluated in the course of trying to repair this truck; all at your expense. I don't mean to be belligerent but you have been through the mill on this and it's exactly the kind of "Bitch Problems" I always got stuck with when working trucks.

Might take two buffers on that one.

I've changed two crankshafts in 237's that have been driven in and the crankshaft was busted. Both right at the thrust bearing.

I would be interested in the setup he used to measure the crankshaft deflection. Was a sustitute flywheel tried? Was the crankshaft flange face indicated and measured? Was crankshaft vertical play in the block measured? Was balance on engine flywheel checked when removed from engine?

I am absolutely astounded the engine was not run without the transmission installed.

It is easy. You pull one main cap at a time, set up an indicator on that exposed journal and rotate the crankshaft by hand noticing the deflection, (which is twist) while it is still installed. They usually do this prior to snapping/breaking and is usually a result from "dumping" the clutch while heavy.

With the pan dropped, did they check the crankshaft for twist which will show up as runout in the center of the crankshaft most times. This needs done at each main bearing crankshaft journal with an indicator as the crankshaft is rotated. Rebuilt a couple of engines where the crankshaft was not straight in the center from torsional stress and exceeded yield of the forging. It's damned hard to be at the mercy of the mechanic; especially if they are on the wrong track. The small and "old time" shops tend to work with a customer if what they installed turns out to be incorrect or doesn't fix the problem. Very frustrating to "eat" what was misdiagnosed 100%. We are human and make mistakes and I always ran my business(s) with that thought in mind.

I've seen more than one truck with a bent crankshaft snout when hit in the front. Has this been checked for runout with the balancer removed? The crankshaft should have probably been evaluated for bend and runout with the pan dropped as have seen them twisted but not broken causing vibrations that are extremely difficult to locate. There were too many ideas/guesses thrown out there at first so I backed off. Throwing parts at a repair is no way to do business and VERY expensive, (as you know).

keep the mack in good mechanical repair so you can drag the Peterbilt home..... repeatedly.

To me it looks like an Australian RW series. The fuel tanks, spokes, "roo" bar on the front.....

Yes. Early mechanical fuel injection systems using an inline type pump were called "Jerk" systems. They were also referred to as "plunger pumps". Rotary pumps such as a "Roosa-Master" were called that, rotary. Common Rail, and HEUI injection is not a PLN system at all. Detroit Diesel used mechanical unit injectors for years to inject the high pressure diesel fuel. I've never seen the designation PLN used in the past in practice, but have seen it in training manuals.

Great to hear and thanks for the follow up. Don't feel you stirred a hornet's nest or anything of the like. We would rather seem overboard rather than you be stranded with something destroyed. If it were me, (and I do) get a spare one of those caps to keep in the shop, or truck. You never know when someone is going to knock the center out of them with a shopping cart or something completely out of any kind of suspect. Happened to me twice. Once when an employee was rolling a heavy box using a hand truck and the box caught the rubber plug somehow. Second time when a driveway identification reflector pole, (mounted low) got wrapped in the wheel while backing into a driveway when dark. Both times broke the windows right out but had spares to make the repairs in the trucks.

What do us old guys know, eh Matt?