Rob

No problem with smoke as I let folks know I'll be burning including the sherriff's office and local fire department. Simple phone call. My shop is out of town so really not a problem. Breaking into an overgrown or isolated property like that is not difficult with a medium sized dozer; hence the suggestion. Cost? Whom wants the trucks as they'll surely go to an indiscriminate scrapper if someone doesn't get them removed. Highly doubt a landowner with a bunch of "junk" on the property is going to care much about finish landscaping to get the effluent removed. If the current property owner is interested in cleaning the place up prior to sale it should be marketed as such. They'll be looking for the lowest cost to rid the property of anything with a negative drive to a prospective purchaser and would most likely donate the "junk" to anyone whom would get it out of there. I'd wager they wouldn't much care how it was extracted. I've been all over the midwest extracting other's junk which could be repurposed or dispensed to someone whom would either appreciate it, or use something and several on this website know that first hand. All to keep it from going across the scales. If I though there was much on that property reusable, I may even entertain the option again. Lot of work can be done with a chainsaw, snatch blocks, and a couple hundred foot of cable if a guy is willing.

I worked a couple garages that still used the chains and tire setup in the late 1970's as there were still a lot of older cars with frames under them on the roads then.

I seem to remember a Caterpiller dealer not too far from your place on Rt. 30 and I'd wager a days rental on a D5 tractor would get them out on short order. Someone running over with a drop deck to haul trucks back could rent a tractor and detach for a weekend and make the task quite easy. A local farmer with a worn out old dozer or backhoe would work too.

Old truck tires? No problems with disposal here. Out of the kindness of my heart and respect for my neighbors I await a northwest breeze and light them up a dozen at a time. Goes pretty quick that way.

I've used BWP Parts, and find it parts.com for eons: https://www.finditparts.com/products/1944496/bwp-nsi-hc3434025 https://www.finditparts.com/products/454282/stemco-343-4025 Looks like the last hubcap I'd purchased with that part number was back in 2009 so prices have gone up a bit but still less than your original price quote.

Don't put the cart in front of the horse. Get those perimeter screws broken loose in the hub cap that retain the window before going much further. Wouldn't surprise me a bit if over 50% of them snap off clean and you will not be able to extract them. Then of course you need to replace the cap complete. From doing that same job just a few times I just replace the complete cap. Especially if the truck has seen road salt. Not saying 100% failure, but try to get those screws broken loose first. Don't think I've ever paid over $30.00 for a Stemco cap complete myself for a Mack steer axle. Even the old 5025 style. Relay your spoke number on the truck and I'll check an online supplier I've used a few times.

If that cap hasn't been off of there in a couple of years, you most likely made the correct decision. Those windows really don't last very long at all. There is another brand out there and I can't remember the name that doesn't use a window but still has a rubber plug to check oil level.

If you run out of option you can send it to me as there is an older gent whom will repair it with pretty quick turn around. I've had him do a couple for B series and one R and they don't leak. In the meantime pull the rubber boot back and get some WD-40 into the area to saturate the seals. Older ones were leather and took to this well.

Before you pop that center plug out ensure your parts supplier has either the complete cap for a replacment, or at least a window kit. Those plastic windows don't hold up that well and harden with time. With my luck the window breaks out as the rubber plug is also hardened from age. Then the screws won't come out from corrosion and I replace the complete cap assembly..... That looks like a "Stemco" hubcap and the number is cast into the assembly. If you can't read the number the front axle number, or wheel spoke number will be needed if you don't take the original in with you. BTDT a time or two.

What, the repower to more modern, or the IH steering wheel? I think it looks great.

Those part numbers do ring a bell that is long buried in cold storage. The same larger bushings are used under the radiator support also. I've got to find the note where I jotted the part numbers down, but I believe the same bushings work for the cab mounting also.

Golf course machine eh Jim? Looks like it would do a good job patching divots in the rain with those high flotation tires.

I certainly could be wrong as never operated one but I think that 955 was consistently moved on a three axle tag trailer.

IIRC that 235 series Cat was a rebranded Mitsubishi? I have a friend with a 312 used for septic work and I've done a bit of welding and hydraulic work on that machine over the years but it's such a good size being small and very powerful along with fast. Don't need a permit to move it and it's usually on a tag trailer behind a tandem dump.

My 57 B-61 had a belt drive Page&Page axle but it was gone when I got the truck. The brackets were still there but everything else was gone.

the 955, and the 977 both were pretty common when I was a kid. The 955 probably more so as a pintle hitch trailer behind a dump truck was all that was needed to move it. A 977 always seemed to need a semi trailer.

I have both a D343, and a 1693TA. Both look the same and are 425hp.

https://peoria.craigslist.org/hvo/d/edelstein-caterpillar-977/6838428954.html https://peoria.craigslist.org/hvo/d/gilson-cat-933-track-loader/6823009773.html The 955 is not showing up this afternoon but was there this morning.

There are both an older 955, and a 977, locally for sale around here from different parties.

Don't know where I came up with Breckerman other than I was in the Navy with a guy with that name. Breckenridge has had yellow drums for as long as I can remember. Laclede had red mixers and company trucks marked up a lot like the taxis in the 1960's till mid 70's IIRC. I left St. Louis after grandpa retired, (Monsanto) in 1977. Don't remember the concrete names you mentioned which have folded and also cannot remember the company that ran almost exclusively REO mixers that were white and blue in color. As a very young kid I went on a lot of deliveries with "Otto", (neighbor) whom worked for them many years.

Breckerman still have a yard just off the MacArthur bridge downtown? Laclede Concrete still around?

I still have that view out of my 1980 R-612 minus the radio and a 13 speed trans shifter.

One of the former foundries around here ran one into the 90's. Used it in the "slag pit" as very little to wear in the abrasive atmosphere. Pretty neat to watch as no hydraulics involved.

The R model is very clean and that chip trailer is the nicest I've ever seen that wasn't brand new. Worked on a lot of skidders, grapples, chippers, and blowers all of which are present there so kind of a familiar sight.....

Forgot to update this but my rear slider is four piece with two panes sliding to clear the winch operating handle. A two piece glass setup such as shown will not work in the current application as the steel handle would impact the left pane. I certainly thought the original busted one was OEM Mack but apparently not. I still have the original gasket with a 7/8" wide groove, and original track; and may have it repaired. I'm also researching changing the mechanical shifted winch to either hydraulic, pneumatic, or hydraulic driven operation to eliminate this scenario altogether too. Thanks for the help guys!