Rob

I'd wager in lengthy service you run through a lot less parts too.

Opposite of what this now defunct operation did. Minority owned business, high school vocational program repairs, six inch splices in air lines, wire nuts in the electrical, worm drive clamps on air brake lines etc.....

Hope I'm not speaking out of turn but make contact with Ray, (MHE9) on this website. I've had him haul a couple of long distance projects to my place and not only is he a nice professional guy, his pricing is right for the task.

Thank you. I'd never done anything like that before so wanted to try. Lot of trial and error but I did have a good helper whom guided me most every step. I used the original panels for templates so they are not a "best guess" type thing.

I had repacked the cylinder and installed a new pump the last four or five years this truck ran hauling asphalt. When it finally was put out of service by DOT it came to me for parts. I drove it home about 70 miles with "Momma" in chase and started robbing parts from the carcass as I've done for many years now. What put it out of service was one of the rear brake drums finally broke apart from no material thickness left in the surface and they got caught running it that way.

It was Galion or Heil but I can't remember for sure. The truck was a 1972 R-685 converted to a dump truck back in the late 1970's. I still have most of the carcass but it was really eaten away. I'd have to stroke that cylinder before I'd let it go to ensure it's a good one. Worked the bed just fine but that's been about 10 years ago and it's been setting since. No real problem to build a jig to both allow extension and push it back down with my shop pump.

How long of cylinder do you need. I have a good one from an R model the bed rusted away from. I think it was a 14' bed but the cylinder was in good condition:

We used PSI electronics on all gaseous fueled generator sets at new installs. They did quite a bit better at cost per hour of operation than other vendors products on the same size and capacity sets. Support was pretty good also. Don't know anything about their automotive usage for on hiway usage.

Certainly appreciate it. I'll attempt to get a photo of my wheel tomorrow also and post it up. Thanks,

Square cut "O" ring at the back of the water pump, oil cooler pack sealing rings, head gasket, all suspect. With the engine running is there bubbling in the radiator? If so, head gasket or head cracked. Not a bad idea to rebuild oil cooler unit regardless.

I did find my book of conversion numbers at the shop but didn't look through it for the Sikkens, or PPG conversion number. Either one of the numbers can be converted to another paint vendor's color.

There is a septic company around here that has one with a manual transmission so apparently they could be had. If'n I remember correctly, the shifter assembly was mounted to a frame and sealed to the cab with a rubber boot. When the cab is tilted it remains in place. I never really seen inside the truck as I was looking at the PTO driven hydraulic pump which powered a vacuum pump, and dumping cylinders. The transmission was exposed so could see the linkage and rod.

I liked when our local bank in town did that on automobiles for people. I certainly towed a lot of them back as repossessions.....

I have some new 15-22.5 Goodyear bias tires and Dayton rims. The tires have never seen direct sunlight and never mounted. Rims currently have the same size tires but are very old. They were originally on the steer axle of my "Yella Dog" B-61 and in good condition. I purchased the tires to put onto those rims and never did. I don't have anything around in 22.5 rubber. I'm attempting to go from 10.00-20 to 11RX22.5 myself.

The RL has a power right window and I'm going to install one into the R-612 sometime so didn't punch the regulator holes. I did those just to see if I could and a guy I had working for me at the time had relation that was a seamstress. Had she done the sewing, it would have been perfectly straight lines. I don't have access to a machine that will sew that many layers myself so probably couldn't make another set.

I prefer "slabs" of modeling clay when fitting repaired, aftermarket, or generic sheet metal. Place the clay in a few places around the perimeter you are working with, align body lines and openings, open and look at impressions. Measuring thickness of impressions allows you to adjust accordingly.

If it's the gent I'm thinking of he is a resaler. I don't know him at all, just seen several overpriced trucks, (my opinion) through the years with that name in the advertisement. Edit: A simple google search of his name reveals he owns "Horseless Carriage" of which I know you are quite familiar. I suppose I am in error with my comment of having nothing to do with trucking.

I made these myself several years ago. Had the logo digitized from a decal, converted to a format a sewing machine recognized, and it is actually embroidered into the vinyl, (that part I had done). I then sewed the pattern: The red and black tufted panels are for my RL-755LST truck, the black ones and seats are for my R-612ST whenever I get to it..... Only shown are the panels for the right side of the cab. The dogs are mirrored and face forward on the left panels and inward on the left seat.

Not the first rodeo by the seller whom really has little to do with trucks or trucking. Third party really with a "Ka Ching"! In his ears.

Probably should offer up a little more information than your current posting😉. Steer, drive, single, tandem, ratio, Budd, Dayton, etc.

I have a buddy whom is budget rebuilding a 1st generation RW and would rather it go to that cause than mine. I know a front bumper is needed. He doesn't use internet so if you could send me a couple snaps I'll certainly forward them. Thanks,

Enjoying a well deserved rest. Like seeing them that way after they've been "wrung out" in a good service life. If it could talk the stories it could tell..... Certainly like to have that "Thermodyne" emblem to match one I have as they really weren't too common in my area.

I knew you were working with a multi function setup from your original description. I didn't know about the apparatus at the rear. Sounds like you have two pumps driven by a common shaft directly powered by the engine crankshaft. These are designed to move fluid constantly as you have covered by interconnecting the hoses together. That is called a "tandem" style pump if gear, or vane type. A piston type pump is much different but you've not said the pump is round so assuming it is a gear type pump. I would like you to get a measurement of time it takes to dump your bed at the engine rpm you like. You can adjust this at leisure. Then post a few photos of the bed, the hoist cylinder(s), diameter of the hoist cylinders, and stroke length of the bed lifting cylinders. We can move along to sizing a pump/pto after the hardware in place is evaluated to work with. Don't worry about the plow functions at this time but post up some photos so I can see what you are working with. There should be a tag affixed to that pump and relay any numbers you find. What functions are you wanting this truck to perform? Dump, plow, and that is it, or are there other options like a bed vibrator, conveyor, spinner, wings, etc?

I did not see any Brian. Thanks, Rob

The co driver is on vacation. Filling the seat is won hung lo.