Rob

https://www.southwestwheel.com/p-9329-10041w.aspx https://www.southwestwheel.com/p-9372-28608sp.aspx https://www.southwestwheel.com/p-5313-88884w.aspx

I hadn't been in a large truck stop in years. Stopped in the Effingham, IL Petro when meeting up with a trucker buddy to haul my 4200 home and the restaurant was very good. Something named "Skillet". We had supper there, then breakfast the next morning with both being very good. A bit expensive for the casual diner I felt; but they offer discounts to professional driver's so of course I ensured that was applied for future meals to him.

It only got to -26 in my area last evening and we didn't start the car yesterday at all. It was well chilled you could say but it did start relatively easily this morning when the temp was -24. It didn't rattle but took about 30 seconds to pick up all four cylinders. My 99 Durango started just as if it were 40 degrees outside? Of course it does have a group 29 battery installed also so plenty of juice.

Here is a link to what I consider spray guns worth the money: https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Refinish/Spray-Guns/1-3-Needle-Nozzle-Kit Get yourself a 1.4mm, and a 1.7mm to cover the spectrum of undercoats and topcoats. The 1.4mm breaks up basecoat very evenly and for me the 1.7mm tip allows for a very fast traverse speed applying the clearcoat. Small jobs the 1.4mm tip will work great but for an overall or large job it's too small, (for me) as the speed is far too slow. However, and that being said, the slow traverse speed leaves a very fine spray pattern that many times does not have to be buffed on flat panels, (such as a hood) if it stays clean during the dry/cure. I have several high end spray guns, (Sata, OMC, DeVilbis, Binks, Accu-Spray, etc.) and these are about 1/3rd the cost and hold up very well. They are HVLP and perform very close to conventional spray guns. Use between 4-5.5 psi on basecoat and about 8-10 psi on clear and all works well. I also have a 2.1mm tip I use for polyester primer which is very thick and it takes that big hole in the end to push the product through. Being a polyester based primer it's great for filling grinder scratches in truck parts after repair or grafting on sections.

I'll watch the video but won't critique negatively. Nothing to be learned from that. Thanks in advance for taking the time/trouble to film your progress. I've taught literally dozens of students/prospects through the years from the local auto body tech school(s) and programs so a bit familiar if I can remember anything..... Not hard and everyone develops a rhythm to their personal "style", but there's no substitute for time in the saddle. Youtube will give anyone the basics to build upon but there's a lot more than that involved and mistakes are plenty expensive to correct any more. Still best to have a "tutor" with a bit of experience when in unfamiliar territory. Material and consumables expenses have increased exponentially since the early 2000's along with operating expenses. Retail rates have not increased linearly as the insurance agencies closely regulate this to keep their costs down. Vicious cycle is what I seen it as till no longer worth the effort, (to me).

Pretty certain my Midliners had Bendix compressors but the power steering pumps were driven from the timing cover on the front of the engine.

Get the weight off the suspension, and use a forklift or skid steer to apply some "easy" side force to the axle hubs while watching the trunion area for deflection. I do it by chaining a forklift of skid steer to the tire with a fork on the hub. On the bronze bushed variety remove the cap so you can see the innards. If there is movement between the tube and arm, the bushings are loose. I always found it too hard to do with a pry on the floor with everything still bolted up but I'm weak in stature.

Atro is one brand of urethane pads and there are several out there. Atro seems to be of first rate quality and what I've used on my own. Don't rule out looking over the balance of the suspension. If it's been let go far enough the rears are clunking and walking, there may be more to be found. I don't like doing something twice myself but no longer need job security.....

Your timing marks reference injection timing and valves have to be closed on the compression stroke. You should be able to run the overhead, (adjust valves) by the timing pointer indication at it's reference mark.

Engine cold and hot both? Sounds as if pins and bushings are worn in the governor. Get the front of the truck elevated or nose down into a ditch, (for instance) when it's surging and see if it stabilizes. If so, dead giveaway the pins and bushings have slight wear allowing governor flyweights unneeded movement. Many of the governor parts are NLA but a good machine shop can remanufacture the small parts for a fuel shop to calibrate.

Like that the truck has Dayton hubs. Looks all business to me. I've aligned bored quite a few of the hinge pin bosses with setups like that. Easy to repair but much more of a wear point than a more vertical plane cylinder.

This is exactly what all the rich kids, (spoiled) need nowadays to be out of the way of their parents.

They'll probably have a disclaimer about "RV" use in that capacity only or something along those lines.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/hvd/d/phoenix-heavy-haul-1989-mack-rw713/6805232425.html

I purchased a 72 R-685 once that clunked terrible upon both acceleration, and deceleration which turned out to be the elephant pads and locating pins basically gone. The bottom castings, (aluminum) were almost paper thin where the "T" of the leaf springs had been rubbing against them. Both axles really moved a lot when going through shallow turns. Prior owner replaced the castings and pads when the truck was finally put out of service. Still have the rears as they were sound, but the truck was cut up after parts usage for many years.

I have all kinds of switches at the shop. Let me see a photo of the type you're after. The older, and newer styles will interchange as they do the same thing but look a lot different.

Is your rear case busted with chunks missing, or just cracked? I've welded a couple back together that were cracked and blasted them to both stress relieve and lessen the appearance of the repair. Why not slip that duplex into the truck till you get the Unishift repaired rather than let the truck set? Same length to the two transmissions IIRC. Do you still have all the hardware that made the Unishift operate? I may have some but not all. My truck had one with a busted rear case also many moons ago.

My "doghouse" would fit on the rear platform.

I've used them over a dozen times myself, always good work. They have many cores in stock if you ship them something and it is not repairable also.

I've heard positive about Triangle, and Double Coin also. Several I know are running them and although they don't wear as well as a Michelin, Goodyear, Continental, etc. the mile for mile cost is less. Just my observation from conversations and no direct experience. Hankook is another brand I hear is very good. I'm planning to purchase 10 Triangle tires in 11RX24.5 for my water truck next year when I get to using it again. I've purchased three sets of WestLake branded tires for my utility trailers and one set for my family car with good service from all. They produce truck tires also and if they wear anything like their trailer tires have for me, I wouldn't mind a set.

That is accurate.

Did they rename the "Botulism Bus"? Ain't nothing like the "gift" that keeps on giving they say.

Most likely just the start of the damage once opened up. Damage would come quick with those ratios being intermixed. I've seen it. Somebody really got too close and inserted their complete head when they went only to kiss the backside.

Surprising to me you could even move the truck with that disparity in gear ratios. Normally it will shuck a tooth, or strip a gear clean. Usually not quiet when it does it either.

I had some small pieces parts for an ENDT-866 powder coated aluminum finish and they look very close to polished aluminum parts, but they'll stay looking like that without maintenance. I may do the rocker covers and intake plenums too, but haven't looked into the cost yet.