Rob

If no interest in the complete hood I would have interest in the scoop for my 80 R model with 300+ engine. Thanks,

Does anyone have a schematic of an E-Tech diagram for a 2001 CX series tractor? Buddy has ran across a wrecked one, (E7-427) and I may acquire it to repower something around here. I have no experience with Mack electronic engines, but enough with automobiles through the mid 2000's I should be able to muddle my way through it if a path presents itself. Thanks,

I've seen 3.86, and 3.87 put into the same truck in the past. Can't remember if the 3.86 was built into a carrier stamped 3.87, or the other way around but it wound up going into a truck. It didn't last too long but failure wasn't catastrophic as it was caught when things were hot, not failed. However upon teardown, the differential would have needed rebuilt again. Both differentials in the truck was warrantied to make the customer happy. These were Mack differentials with air operated power divider. Had it been the automatic power divider, the story could have been quite different.

That's a "kissing cousin" to the trailer my B-673ST pulled for a lot of years with a D6 tractor on the deck. I have a photo someplace of the truck and trailer with the then high school football team riding along during the 1976 bicentennial parade.

10018 rod is good but so is a gas shielded cored wire for the task in the proper rating. Either stick or wire, the frame should be temperature elevated in the weld zone with a torch to about 350 degrees or a bit better and welded up and allow a slow cooling to not set up stresses in the steel that cause cracking. Probably should add the crack needs to be "Vee" grooved out to get a full penetration weld also.

I miss NONE of that kind of work. Hard to even have desire to work on my own stuff any longer at times.

I never liked actually doing that kind of work so I just stayed designing it for other's to do.....

I've had very close to that style duplicated by a good automotive interior shop. However, that style really didn't wear that well as the inherent "sliding" the driver will do when ingress and egress of the cab was hard on the "pillow top" style of interior. Very nice older truck. Always liked the IH cabovers myself.

Scania never built much to look at in trucks, but their engines, (especially the V8) were always a force to be reckoned with.

Just be careful when you "Flic your Bic" as I'd hate to see anything happen to the instrument as it's a very important part of the country's history.

Sorry Paul but you got screwed. Solomon was a proven liar as per his father David whom I acquired the originals from through family passdown. In fact after David slew that SOB Goliath, wasn't nobody gonna doubt a damned thing David said. And that was before he was king!! My kids spent literally hours with the calligraphy set and left me wondering what they was working on. Never knowed what all that leather was for they was buying either. Their sudden interest in sheep befuddled me. I have the original Ark plans and use them for a formal dining room table cloth as the hide holds up quite well under the clear plastic.

Part numbers sound familiar from the "old days" but for what these numbers used to cost, I could do eight doors with about the same amount of costs involved of two doors using OEM parts. Used to have the office girl make up the weatherstripping and let the guys stay busy repairing wrecks. Kept everybody in a job that way till I tired of it and shut it all down.

No I do not. I closed the shop in 2006 and many of the vendors I used did not survive the 2008 recession. Measure the width, depth, and glass thickness for the glass run channel. Stainless outer bead, or black is about all that's required. There are slotted back and solid back varieties and the retention "finger clips" insert into the slotted back types. Window glass inner and outer "belt" is the same thing and in many instances mounts the same. Door perimeter weatherstrip is another spectrum. Purchase some modeling clay from a hobby store or Wal-Mart, remove the existing perimeter weatherstrip and place several "blocks" of the clay on the side of the pinch weld the weatherstrip to to affix to around the opening. Smear a little petroleum jelly, (Vaseline) onto the door area where the clay will contact the door shell where you want the seal to bear against so the clay doesn't stick. Close the door till the body lines are where you want them, open the door and remove the clay measuring it's thickness from the pinchweld to the mashed face of the clay that bore against the closed door. This is the sealing area. From this derivement, you can ascertain which sealing rolls you need to research and purchase. Stay away from PVC laced rubber and stay with EPDM rubber in this application. PVC is cheap but won't hold up near as long.

That has always been my understanding too. Back in the 1970's they were common and not too expensive to rebuild. Nowadays, they are cost prohibitive in a lot of cases. New purchase for an older truck? Hard to justify. Seen a lot of Mack trucks with 34K cast spiders on the rear changed over from "rotochambers" to type 24/24 cans as they'll physically fit, but don't offer near the braking force the larger chambers do.

I have seen that truck in person and it's quite rough. Good for parts probably but not something to build upon unless an endless pocketbook mentality is applied.

I buy the "cat whiskers", (door glass run is proper name) in bulk and make my own. Perimeter door seal is also purchased in bulk along with the proper solvent glue to melt it together. Usually, (not always) you can get away from purchasing new OEM seals and do just as good of job. Not quite as "ram and slam" as original, but a lot less expensive overall.

The replacement style pins are larger than the original types you have. The new style pins measure 1.3750-1.3755, (upper) and 1.6250-1.6255", (lower). There is a difference in the upper bearing surface of .0240", and the lower of .0035". Citing both of these dimensions are larger and the taper to the pin is the same, have custom bushings manufactured by a machine shop for the spindles. Hone these bushings to the correct dimension allowing for no more than a .005" clearance. IIRC the spindle bores are slightly different sizes from the old style to the new style so it's not just press new bushings into the old bores. You will require custom bushings which won't take long to manufacture. Not a hard job for a machine shop and in the grand scheme not out of reach in a restoration.

The transmission Chuck was asking about, (TRDL-1070) has been in my water truck for five years now. It's an overdriven 10 speed. It replaced the direct 10 speed, (TRDL-107) and was a slip fit except for the input gear on the PTO for the pump. The transmissions are not stamped with the "L" character but are aluminum case. That is probably where the respondents went astray. I have a TRDL-1071 in another truck which is the low reduction two stick six speed and it does not have the "L" stamping in the aluminum case either. All of these transmissions are 1970's models and the 1960's models transmissions, (B series) I have are stamped with an "L" if aluminum. I still have the original TRDL-107 and keeping as a spare as two of my other trucks have the same transmission.

You have the old style FA-522 steering axle. There was a change for the 1962 model year, (IIRC) that went to upper needle bearings. My 1964 B-61 w/FA-522 steering axle has needle bearings. Your king pins should measure 1.3510-1.3515" diameter at the top, 1.6215-1.6220" diameter at the bottom. You should have a threaded adjuster plug in the bottom and the style is known as "Type 3 w/o needle bearings" according to a B model service manual from the 1960's I have.

Yup.

Are you guys suggesting it won't buff right out?

I made 1/2 dozen of those a few years ago and used two. One in my B-673ST, and the other on my B-61ST. Don't know what I did with the balance but I'll let you know if I see them in the next few days. They are cork/neoprene which I cut from sheet and punched the holes. I have the tools to do this work but it's a slow process by hand..... Gray "Permatex" works very well against oil for a seal but it's hard to pry apart later.

Not so much for me but maybe one of you guys would like a crack at it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAKE-OFFER-1957-Mack-B-Model-S-A-Truck-Gasoline-Engine-Not-Running/112985263187?hash=item1a4e724c53:g:XngAAOSwsc1a9Gc8

Yup. I remember that truck being in rough shape too. I was working a remote radar facility about eight years ago and looked at it. "Custom Built for Graham Bros." is engraved into my water wagon's horn button as that truck was originally built for them. The right rail has a slight buckle from the twist of going over but you had to look for it. Rob

Little over six minute video to waste your time: