Rob

Certainly does; especially when working on this big shit with only myself. If I wasn't so able to intermingle among all three of my personalities, I'd never get anything done.

Didn't get my engine cart/stand made today because "Momma" had to go to the foot doctor unexpectedly. We had a pretty good rain the other day and you all remember how she just loves to stomp in mud puddles and this was no exception. If you remember I graded the shop drive last month and although pretty flat, it's not perfect. Shortly after it stopped raining, "Momma" found this big ole puddle next to the house, removed her shoes and socks, and jumped right in. I swear those big old feet of hers, (I think they look like flippers with toes myself) got to causing the customary tidal wave as the water was displaced with each downward force of her foot until the puddle was nearly depleted when I heard a loud "yelp" for help. Seems she landed on something like a sharp rock with one of her last shock wave inducements to the earth. It was all red and swolled up the next morning so she called the doctor for an appointment. Got in this morning and not a minute too soon as that right club was really growing in size. I guess she got some kind of damage to a nerve or tendon which they gave her a shot right in the foot for to calm it down. I got out to the shop early afternoon and discovered the right mount needed to be about 1/4" shorter than the left as the flywheel housing for the starter nose was protruding into the area of the mounting surface these mounts bolt to. Easy enough to clamp it up in the band saw and remove the needed material for the adjustment but this leaves too little room for the bottom bolts to use a flat washer with. I'll probably modify a flat washer with a grinder to make a "flat", but the photos should show what I'm speaking of. Here is what I started with and these SAE holes have never had a bolt in them as the truck has a Mack transmission using rear mountings on it: Same mounting pad after a 5/8 X 11tpi tap is run through the holes to clean them out: Mounts fitted: Initially I made both mounts exact but if you look closely at the mount labeled "LT", it can be seen the proximity of the bolts to the horizontal plate. I had grabbed the left mount to shorten for the right side..... Oh well by the time it's blasted and painted nobody will know..... Rear photo of the engine with the mounts bolted on. They are very solid and vertical square tube will weld to these to be rigid.

Good on ya Keith. Old fashioned lead weight static balance, (hard to dynamic those old nylon tires...... Thanks for rounding up the photos. I don't have anything on 22.5" rubber with Dayton hubs. I do have an R model w/24.5" rubber and the gap is the same vs. the 22" rubber they replaced.

I can't say I've ever seen a set on a trailer but they sure don't hold up on a steer axle from several installs I've witnessed. I seen one pair cupped and chunked out so bad at 30K the selling dealer gave 100% refund towards a new set of Bridgestone steer tires. These were 295 R-22.5 tire size.

You will see it but it's not obnoxious. Look at Freightrain's recent post of painting his wheels. Look at the front rims and compare to your split rims. No photos of the stainless trim rings but I've never seen them anywhere else so may be custom made. I don't know anyone that has been happy with Cooper Roadmaster tires long term. That is just my observation and I ran Cooper tires on everything for many years.

In between the main body of the rim and the bead seating area. On a tube type wheel the lock ring is there. On a tubeless type there is about a 1" gap. On the drives you don't see it as the gap is to the inside. On the steer axle the gap is facing outward.

Pulled the engine from my 74RL797LST this afternoon. My gantry crane did a great job but it certainly was "tight" being in such close quarters to the other truck, and office wall. Going to need to go with polyurethane wheels instead of rubber as traction is not so good with all the down pressure on the tires I can apply. Didn't take too many photos but here are a few I did take: I'll build an engine stand and hopefully get the cab off tomorrow to shove the chassis outside. I really need to continue to make room for other projects. This was a greasy mess in the flywheel housing and front of the transmission.

I've seen two ways to lessen the "unsightly" gap 22.5 rims leave on a Dayton style wheel. One was a ring that snapped over the gap and really looked quite nice. The one I seen on a truck was polished stainless and really carried the appeal and the other was the inner space of this gap powder coated a contrasting color. The one I'd seen was white in this space where the hubs were red, and the rims gray. The hubs were painted but the rims were very nicely powder coated. The truck was an IH "Westcoaster" long nose. Really went together nicely but caught my eye because of the Dayton hubs. The truck was originally from Oregon IIRC.

If it were me; I'd use the proceeds from the sale of equipment to purchase a nicely restored, (or do it your self) older truck with some current updates. There are a lot of older trucks still out there and many of them will still be plodding along when the newer generations are melted down for new trucks.

B model single axle tractor steer axle: FA-505: Pivot center which is king pin centerline: 65" King pin inclination which is referenced from a vertical plane: 8 degrees Manual steering caster angle: 0 - 2 degrees positive FA-517: Pivot center: 62.875" King pin inclination: 7 degrees Manual steering caster angle: 0 - 2 degrees positive From the data above taken from a TS-442 series manual dated in 1967, it appears the FA-517 axle is a bit narrower in beam length and the spindles are different from the FA-505 series. Both use the same style king pin but measure different in sizes also. The FA-505, and FA-517 spindles are not directly interchangeable from the dimensions. Power steering trucks were equipped with increased positive caster angle to help "push" the front wheels straight and overcome the drag of the hydraulic system. These angles shown in the books are 4 - 6 degrees positive. Toe in is kept a constant between 1/8", and 3/16" no matter the axle. I have a little "jig" I built up from an old spindle I set a rotating hub assembly onto and spin it while painting. I change out the bearings to fit the hub to be painted. Doesn't have to fit proper, just allow rotation. To paint rims I have a little roller conveyor section and rotate the rim while painting. The very center of the rim, (inside the tire beading area) bears upon these rollers so they are touched up with either a brush, or spray later once the wheel is dry.

It is not that easy. There is more caster in the FA-517 than the FA-505 which makes it a much better axle for "city" type P&D work. They tend to steer a bet better but sharper than the FA-505. The return to center is much stronger with the caster being greater. I don't remember if the axle beam is the same or not as never really measured it but it seems the FA-517 series king pin centerline, and inclination is narrower, and steeper but that's from fading memory.

There are differences between the FA-505, and the FA-517, (old style) but I thought it was just the spindles and king pins. I'll have to look at both series as I have both and see for certain. I'm thinking the bearings are the same but it's been quite some time since looking. Maybe the bearing surfaces don't match up? I'll look as I have both series of axles broken down in the shop. All I got to do is find the FA-505 as I wouldn't have parted with it having brakes. My 58 B-61ST doesn't so was going to roll it under that truck after rebuilding it complete.

Surprised you don't have the steer's on Budd style yet. Seems like we talked about that at South Bend? Looks good from the photos. Got to get off my hindquarters and get something done in the shop besides cleaning but it's so damned enjoyable..... Did my hubs on the B-673ST in Mack red as the truck will be green with black fenders. Come to think of it I've not run across those fenders yet. Wonder where they be?????

That is a very good engine. Not strong enough to tear itself apart but gobs of torque down low to pull the load. A good improvement to the venerable 237 with stronger main saddles and webs in the lower end allowing for greater horsepower. Both five, and two stick six speed "Maxitorque" transmissions would have backed that series of engine. The 4.17 ratio is probably installed in the rears.

Ran through three burial sites when digging the footings, and other trenches for the shop several years ago. Thinking they were all livestock but I'm not any kind of anthropologist, so just shoveled them aside. Property was both a cattle and hog farm for many years so probably, (most likely) animals that perished on the farm. You dig 18" deep on that property and can still smell the stench of urine which make me immediately think "Momma" is upwind of me.

Shit. My condolences to you and family. Was really holding out for good news in your absence.

Was a White branded truck. Looked just like an Autocar with the treadplate fenders. Had the then corporate "Driver's Cab". The White Freightliners were cabover trucks and the conventionals were only "White" branded. I think White purchased the GM heavy truck division in 1982 and from 1983, or 1984 the former General Motors trucks were labled "White/GMC sometime along in there. After White collapsed into bankruptcy in the mid 80's, (IIRC) Volvo wound up the truck division. I really don't know as wasn't around any of those brands much. Why this end dumper had 3.70 ratio rears is beyond me. It did have a Fuller RT-9509, and a Spicer 8341 behind it however but still that could be brutal on a driveline. Engine was a 220hp 6-71 Detroit. Shame too as the truck was painted up pretty nice being red with white accents and extra lighting. Was always clean too. On spokes front and rear but that was common then

Looks really nice! Two of them around here. One I put rear leaf springs and rebushed the spring tag axle in early 2009. Owner has since passed but his partner in the farm operation still uses the truck. No idea as to mileage. Another over by Bloomington, IL in use a lot. See it most times when I'm over that way either on the road, or in a field. Both trucks are grain haulers.

When I was working trucks as a job the Reyco spring setup was very common for on road use. You are correct they are not very good at off road articulation and traction in comparison to Hendrickson, or Mack suspensions. Never really noticed many problems with SQHD's but they weren't quite so "old" in those days either; and 300 engine horsepower was a real "Horse". Seen a few broken spring leaves, but really don't remember any more than other brands. Never have really been around Peterbilt much at all. Some Kenworth, but by far and above, Mack due to the division I worked in. I mostly worked on the same trucks over and over as there were up to 33 in the business segment and all were R models, and three B-6X series. Most trucks had "Maxidyne", and "Maxitorque" transmissions, and all were on Mack rears where I was. The 3.70 ratio SQHD's I have are from under a White "Constuctor" dump truck that was on Hendrickson. That Detroit Locker doesn't have but about 5K on it when the truck caught fire from a bad fuel line so I kept the rears as they are sound. One of my Western RL797 trucks has SQHD's under it and these differentials will go into that truck. It currently has 4.11 ratio and a direct Mack 10 speed trans. Had a buddy several years ago with a 72 358 series truck which had a large drom box on the back. Way too long for me at the time but I put a large Leece-Neville alternator on it as he kept adding chicken lights and the charging system wasn't up to par to support them. Yes, making a 6V-92T fit in a narrow chassis is going to be a chore. Wide engine with all the piping installed.

I would agree. There really weren't too many of either in my locale. I remember one R700 which was owner operated in 78, but everything else I was around was either a B model or R600 series. The RW series was slow to catch on as the hood had a lot of blind spots off road. I wasn't really around freight haulers much in those days.

I seen a 79 once and that is probably the newest I've actually seen myself. it was a V8 truck but don't know if and 865, or 866 engine as the hood was closed. My 78 has the hood style later adopted to the "Valueliner" line with the raised center section where my 77 still has the extended flat hood as do the others.

Dragged this out yesterday afternoon from the former car wash bay. It was really buried back there. It's a 72" X 12ga finger brake. Going to make some underbody boxes for my service truck so needed to get it out.

SQHD's weren't too bad if kept serviced. I have a spare set out back with the rear rear having a Detroit Locker installed, (I did it) and it's going into something I'll use sometime..... Both the 101, and 102 series of Reyco four spring rear suspension were good setups but did wear a few parts. Probably one of the best riding spring suspensions out there. Most parts are still readily available through Euclid. I didn't know the 359 series was out in 1974 but am really not too familiar with the brand.

Off the cuff I don't think it would be a ready swap but that is without any information. First thing to do is look at the stamped area of both axles. If Mack axles, right under the rt. front spring leaf will be a series of letters and numbers such as FA-5XX and some other numerics. If a Rockwell/Meritor axle, there will be a tag in the center of the axle beam. If both trucks have Mack axles take those numbers to a heavy truck parts supplier and see what bearings the hubs use. If different bearings, no since going any further. If the same bearings, remove a wheel from each truck and start measuring the bearing surfaces for distance(s) from each other, and spindle length(s). If measurements are the same, then yes the hubs will swap. If not, it would be a "no go". for your current swap. There would have to be a lot of R model Mack trucks with Budd style wheels out your way I'd think as the Dayton, (spokes) were not so common out west. With the steering gear mounted to the axle beam under your Pete, I'd wager the axle is from an RW series of some sort. Early 80's probably. Your truck a 358 series?

I think 1981, or 1982 from leftover parts but not really certain. Never was around any that weren't Mack powered except my RL755 which has a Cat 1693TA. It has a water to air setup and there is no room to install a CAC in front of the radiator shutters. I'm sure a guy could install a CAC if the shutters are done away with. All four of my trucks have shutters however so probably there throughout the line.