-
Posts
12,753 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
175
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
BMT Wiki
Collections
Store
Everything posted by Rob
-
To me the V8 engines are my favorites and for god sakes, don't blow one up. Parts can be rebuilt if not just destroyed and one certainly cannot work one constantly, (864, 865, 866 series) any longer. They don't break any more than anything else, but hard parts are getting scarce for certain. The water pump in my water wagon truck is gone to a rebuild shop as there are no ready spares available so rebuilding the original.
-
Again, the truck/tractor is very nice and am happy you are as open about learning about it as we are sharing what we know. Being a former fire truck usually means low miles but high hours for the miles as your shows. Trucks built after 4/1/1980 went to a 17 digit serial number where trucks built prior had a 13 digit serial number such as R685STXXXXXXX, (X's representing numbers). Your truck being a 1981 will be something like 1M2W133Y4BA009700. The "B" character in the serial number represents 1981 as date of manufacture. If you replace the "B" with an "F", it represents a 1985 Mack R685 currently listed on Truckpaper.com. The serial number is a screen grab for showing here and I have no affiliation. I assume your truck is an R685 series with a Mack 237 engine which probably is an EM6-237 and five speed direct transmission. This would be a TR-107 series transmission. Both are rock solid in performance as are the 34K Mack rears which likely will have 4.17, or 4.42 rear gears. Being a direct transmission, I'd wager the 4.17 which were very common. As mentioned, rock solid in performance, and about as reliable as you will ever see in a road truck. I would pull the tank, clean and paint the frame, replace the front wheel hubcap seal or caps themselves if oil filled hubs, shine the paint up a bit, and then to look to market it. Look at www.truckpaper.com and use your best judgement to ascertain a value as they will be all over the board on that site. It is unfortunate freight to transport the truck would cost so much but back east there is a lot more value than your present location, (my opinion) as Mack had a much stronger following there. I've had three trucks hauled from somewhat close to you and 3K is very reasonable to central Illinois so would be more if further. If someone wants to purchase the truck that has been on this site for a while, they could have it transported to my place for safe but outside storage till they could pick it up to lessen the freight costs. I have plenty of room and the neighbors aren't a bother so six months isn't a problem. It did appear the tires were older and a mixture of caps, and originals so would question whether jumping right on the road for a cross country jaunt would be prudent also. Feel free to post any questions you have we may answer. I'm sure I speak for the group when saying we'll try to help you out best we can. I for one, really like the old Mack R models but my wife would be "fit to be tied" if I brought another home as I'm way back on projects for her to take on another for me..... I'm constantly reminded about having a lot of stuff, and it's value across the scales.....
-
It is a very nice truck; didn't say it wasn't. The original posted asking price was unrealistic, (my opinion) and the setting or backdrop of the photos indicated it was being sold by a third party to actual ownership. Kudos to the owner for stepping up and posting what is known about it. The truck would be worth a lot more in the eastern states than the western given the condition citing lack of rust for sure. However, the distance and cost of transport eastward will seriously impact interest there. I'm certain it would be a very reliable unit for someone but they would need to be looking for this type of short wheelbase tractor and power combination which is not very desirable these days. Occasional, and hobby usage excluded, the market will be slim. Even the owner knows how "thrifty" farmers, or ranchers can be when it comes to purchasing things such as this I'm sure. Just my thoughts and no offense meant. I hope a sale is made and all are happy.
-
Stuck valves do not knock but they will disallow the cylinder to fire. You can check this by removing the side cover on the engine and visually look to see if a valve is "hung" open by looking at the clearance between the valve stem, and tappet, (lifter). If one is found hanging open, use a long screwdriver and hammer and gently persuade it back down. If you have a knock there is something loose internal to the engine. Could be a rod bearing gone bad.
-
thanks a bunch. Been talking to a former Navy buddy whom is in Montana and he suggests about the same to ensure all the upper passes are open up his way.
-
Decided, "What the hell" the bike needed annual maintenance as it's been since last fall when it had a bath. I put 11K on it last summer and the beginning of this one so time for routines. A little over 20K since I've had it. I change oil every 5K and it was due for service here too. Riding through the overnight hours to Oklahoma City, OK and back sure painted it with bugs last fall. Here is the dirty thing in all it's glory: Man I hate cleaning bikes. The somewhat correct equipment to do the job helps after removing some parts which would preclude easy access: And of course a couple thousand pounds of water pressure with actual steam helps peel bug layers away too: Ya'll former gearheads remember repacking your mufflers? These were getting a bit annoyingly loud and there was virtually no packing left in them. Sounded good but did get annoying with the drone. The packing shown is the remnants from both mufflers. Going to have to purchase some hydroflouric acid as the chrome is peeling from the aluminum end bells for the mufflers. I'm going to abrade them and spray them black for the time being: Can't decide if we are going to bike trip to Yellowstone, or up into Maine this year but the trailer is near ready and "Momma" is down about five pounds so hopefully we can get along alright. Maybe by the time kids are out of school this year I'll be done.....
-
Besides a sloppy repaint and lack of maintenance to the wheel seals, it's most likely a very good unit. I don't see too many city departments selling off their assets which also have several horse and livestock trailers around so thinking the municipality is not conducting the sale. I'm old enough to remember "tachographs" quite well, and they usually weren't installed into trucks for anything other than keep track of drivers and their output. Damned things if left operational didn't allow much lenience to getting ahead back in those days.....
-
Looks like another case of a broker not knowing what he is selling.
-
Parking vintage semi at your house.
Rob replied to 68-f-model's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I just leave mine in the front yard or wherever they run out of fuel at..... -
As I continue to clean on the shop I continue to find stuff long forgotten. That being said, I needed some additional room in the garage for "cold storage" of items not needing so much environmental care. I elected to drag my old Barracuda out and get it up on the unused frame rack inside the shop. No immediate plans to start on it's restoration but given it's sad state of appearance I'll have to clean it up a bit prior to putting it inside. These photos are the first the car has seen the light of day since just prior to 9/11/2001 when I backed it into the garage and closed the door. Me and "Momma" had a lot of fun in that car in years gone by for sure. I ceased driving the car in July, 1996 and rebuilt the engine but never reinstalled it. Did the transmission at the same time and new Eaton "Sure-Grip" differential. Kind of ground to a halt as both business and life took over from there. "Momma" was always my first "Affair", so we settled on "Affair 2" for the plate which we had for several years. Looking like rain which is called for today so will let nature do it's thing before running the car through a wash cycle and get it inside.
-
I find that hard to believe as don't remember doing anything like that.😁
-
Loud cracking/snapping sound coming from 85 R model trunnion
Rob replied to Jhitch's question in Mack Truck Q & A
That is a very good suggestion I'd looked over thinking the truck had hub pilot rims. Regardless, loose lug nuts will make sounds like those experienced also. -
I don't know what it is with that camera but it really does not like Duracell batteries. Eveready "Lithium" and it takes good sharp photos. Other brands and it's kind of hit and miss. Because the shop is so full of crap, and wanting to move the gantry to the front, I had to push it manually sideways most of the way . In between the uprights and inside the tires is 16'3" in width and I couldn't get the travel without running into something. I released the downforce on the drive tires, and shoved it 90 degrees down the shop floor, (as I used to do before motorizing it), then reapplied the downforce and drove it into position. It really does work well but still needs a bit of "tuning". Few things I had to get out of the way to move the crane and simply sweep the floor: Got to have a backup for a back up for a primary correct? Actually all three are set up for different functions. This one I've had for 44 years. the gent I lived across the street from in St. Louis growing up gave it to me when he went to a larger machine. I can't honestly say how many "dozens" of truck frames this welder has repaired/modified by my hand over the years without exaggeration. I still get it out and it does just what it was built to do. May not be "Politically Correct" these days but that welder has always been called "Bart", the homo. Had to move this too cause it was right in the path I needed to travel: However, before I could move that, I had to move this: Really need to get someone in here to teach me to weld..... Now with all that crap out of the way I could push a broom fairly unimpeded. However, everything had to go back into place so besides being much cleaner, it's the same as it ever was. Hope to get after the water pump this afternoon on the water wagon.
-
Loud cracking/snapping sound coming from 85 R model trunnion
Rob replied to Jhitch's question in Mack Truck Q & A
They are the rollers in the front rear differential. They are basically the interaxle differential in a tandem and they, along with their respective drum wear. Going in a straight line they are usually silent when worn out but during a turn noisy as all getout. -
I have a new "SteelCat" in the box and blades are expensive, but do work well. Go easy on your entrance cut and you'll not break the teeth out of them.
-
You probably have a high concentration of TDS, (total disolved solids) and although the water is soft, it needs additional filtration to strip these from the water supply. A 5 micron final filter will do this but plug quickly. I would put a 50 micron, followed by a 10 micron, followed by a 5 micron to plug the larger and less expensive first. A 5 micron will remove color from water and all but trace minerals. You won't have any "spotting" with this method.
-
Nope. It is an ENDT 866 Mack engine. Number matching to the chassis. Project R-12 gets the 12V-71T. Even you will be a convert once it's moving along LOL.
-
Mack 5 sped with Tetrapoid gears
Rob replied to Old Man with an old truck's topic in Engine and Transmission
I've never seen a PTO with a drain plug. Is this a Chelsea, Muncie, (same thing) or other branded unit? -
Loud cracking/snapping sound coming from 85 R model trunnion
Rob replied to Jhitch's question in Mack Truck Q & A
Sounds like a rotating origination to me. Could be a "spalled" wheel bearing. Do you have the noise without a trailer? Have you jacked the truck up getting both drive axles off the ground and ran the truck? This I would suggest and if the noise still persists without the tires being on the ground, let them rotate and find where the noise is originating from while they are rotating. You may have to remove one set of tires at a time to drill down to the culprit but it could be something simple like rust buildup inside a drum. That truck being an 85 probably has outboard brake drums so really easy to check. -
Sometimes it's easiest that way or use a good heat gun and soften the bonded rubber.
-
Still cleaning on the shop some more and this is getting old. Had to move one thing to move another, to move another yada, yada, yada..... I can now see from front to back. But to get to cleaning I had to put some stuff and three trucks outside. Not shown is "Project R-12": Since my gantry crane is needed in the front of the shop instead of the back till I pull the radiator on the water wagon, I moved it forward placing it where it'll be needed to pull the engine from the 74 RL797LST: Knowing how damned heavy that crane is to push by myself and it's very much heavier with an engine hanging from the hook, I added some hydraulics to help a bit: Just knew I'd find a use for that stuff which most of was left over equipment scrapping at work. I'd purchased the wheel/tires from ebay and purchased new sprockets and chain. The hydraulic pumping unit, and Char-Lynn motors were used from something. The crane moves fore, aft, and turns left and right with a joystick control to D03 tandem center hydraulic valves. Works really well and takes only finger pressure to move the thing anymore..... Now with some stuff moved I could get to sweeping the floor: Man there is some serious "crap" in that building. Was really nice to see some of the folks I formerly worked with. Very nice to see absolutely nobody under work pressure or stress as everyone was retired.
-
Yes, I only have four RL700 series so feeling a bit slighted..... I'd really like to come across a nice RL-600 series as I'm going to bust my 80 R612 down for parts. Thanks,
-
Yes, I've seen it advertised several times too. I'm always on the hunt for Western RL series trucks.
-
https://lewiston.craigslist.org/hvo/d/1975-mack-rl-700-dump-truck/6576054999.html
-
Was warming the water truck this morning to go and give my lane a good soak as it's so dry and I just graded the gravel last week. I started smelling coolant as the truck warmed so got a look and sure enough, this is what I found after backing the truck out: Closer examination reveals either the rear seal has gone bad, or the seal on the cylinder block to pump housing has gone bad. These pumps are direct driven. This is an 866 I have apart in my other RL-797LST. The square cut "O" ring I suspect let go: Just like an water to oil cooler, when these rings let go, they promptly add oil quantity to the pan too which mine is no exception. Guess the truck is due for annual service so no real big deal and nothing other than the water pump seems damaged. I'll pull it and send it off to be rebuilt. It's down in this mess: Well the way one thing leads to another means I'll pull the radiator sending it in for cleaning and checkover, water pump will be rebuilt by "waterpumpkit.com" in Houston, ( http://waterpumpkit.com/ ) new hoses, belts, and a few air lines that will be readily exposed when opened up. Plus I'll probably wind up with case of hemorrhoids being I'm so tight letting go of money. "Momma" says I'm so tight I squeak when I walk and I don't dare tell her I think she oozes when she tromps. Oh well, another day in Paradise as they say.....
BigMackTrucks.com
BigMackTrucks.com is a support forum for antique, classic and modern Mack Trucks! The forum is owned and maintained by Watt's Truck Center, Inc. an independent, full service Mack dealer. The forums are not affiliated with Mack Trucks, Inc.
Our Vendors and Advertisers
Thank you for your support!