Rob

Does anyone have a book with AMBAC part numbers? I have a leaking overflow valve on one of my 8VBB series pumps which allows fuel drainback. This valve also serves as a fuel check valve. If I don't start the truck at least every other day, I have to manually prime the system again with an external pump as there is no manual primer. It was going about a week for the last year or so but has regressed further. I think this effin "bio-diesel" garbage has done it in. The transfer pump still makes and carries good fuel gallery pressure when the engine runs, but if I have manually primed it, there is a delay before the engine runs smooth until the air purges through the system.

There is a grease zerk on the slip to lube both it and the mating spline. Get a grease fitting and knock the center out of it at the bench. Temporarily replace the original fitting with the one missing the guts, (check valve). Collapse the steering column fully, and pump fibrous wheel bearing grease into the area till it starts to ooze out. Replace the grease fitting back with the original and call it good. Fibrous grease is a lot "stiffer" than most NGLI-2 chassis lubrication greases. That grease zerk is right about your knees when driving so you don't want it oozing back out of your temporary fitting onto your clothing as it kinda pisses off the person doing the wash.

Nice truck but I'll bet it's in for frame repair in a couple of years from the way they hinged the rear for the bed. That is far too much concentrated stress to hold up if single framed. Wish the photo was longer to see the total length and overhang of the bed. Camelback does great in the fields; just as Hendrickson does. The articulation is very good and traction is among the best.

Not if you have one already. It's just a replacement and can be done in the cab. If not and you wish to install one, cut the shifter handle, weld the isolator to the part nearest the transmission, then remove enough of the upper part of the shifter handle to drop the total length back to where you want it, and bolt the top section into the bottom section. There may be totally bolt in styles now but a few years ago there were not. The shifting handles wear at he point where they intermesh with the shift forks, and the forks themselves wear. Your post is too vague to present any real repair type guidance and be correct. Its the "play" down low, or up top? Grab the shift lever right at the floor level and move it around. If loose there, the slop or play is inside the transmission. If solid by the floor, it very well could be the isolator bushing, (if installed) is worn.

There is a company called "Red Line" lubricants and some of their oils are red in color. Usually their stuff is quite "sticky" in consistency too. However, only 1.5 pints is not near sufficient to both lubricate, and cool that transmission.

Run straight 90W GL-4 gear lube and you'll not have any problems. GL-5 will work in non syncronized transmissions but GL-4 does not have the extreme pressure additives that are corrosive to yellow metals. GL-4 was what the truck was filled with when new most likely. If you only drained 1.5 pints it was either short filled, or there is a leak. ATF does not belong in that transmission at all but they probably dumped it in thinking the trans was hard to shift rather than the linkages being corroded. Don't get "wrapped" around the axle with the terminology. Straight 90W is good, 85-140 will work also in your transmission. Fill it, drive it, allow it to cool, then top off the transmission oil. Watch for leaks until proven otherwise.

Mine are spoken for but what style axle brackets are you looking for? The frabricated type that are always bent or some other type. Snap a photo of what you want and I'll do some looking. You running "P, Q, or Q+" shoes?

Gawd, not by any means.....

I have two of them from an old school bus also been saving at least that long.

I wanted to check the trunion bushings on my water wagon yesterday morning although I'm not having any problems with walk or drift yet. The tracking seems to be fine with a driver following and watching. One of the best ways to check these I've found is to be backing slowly with the driveline loaded, (such as backing up a small incline or dragging the brakes) and set the air brakes while the truck it still moving slowly backwards. This doesn't let anything settle into a low spot and as you can see in the photo, reveals some slop that couldn't be seen otherwise. These are 38K on rubber and I have a spare pair of bushings so they will probably go in shortly. Getting ready to pull the tank from the truck to start figuring on an RV conversion to the chassis. May purchase a new van body but haven't decided if wanting to build something, or modify something. Probably wind up purchasing a rolled over camper for the interior donors but undecided on that too. "Momma" hasn't given me my plans or opinions yet, so the anticipation builds.

Never tried that but can't see why it wouldn't work. I had molybdenum grease in five gallon pails I used and the lifespan over conventional grease was about 3:1. It didn't attract dirt like conventional grease either. Used to slather it on with a kitchen spatula as could get it into the smallest of crevices.

I used something similar to that from the local farm supply store on my carriers. "Dry-Slyde" was the name in gallon cans. It worked well on "Nylatron" slide pads, but grease was still required to get into areas you couldn't apply it to the surface.

Thanks. She still threatens to carve my nuts out with a meat cleaver from time to time, so not much has changed.

I try hard to help people too but usually they just laugh at me.....

I have several electricians whom donate their scrap wire to me for donation to charities. 100% of this load's income will go to St. Jude's Midwest Affiliate in Peoria. Spent a portion of the afternoon loading up one of my bins to go across the scales the first of the week. I keep finding more concrete under all the junk too..... Rob

Thanks for taking the time to make and upload the video. They do operate quickly and my luck would have something destroyed on short order. Pretty simple design staying with a single cantilever style. I'd have to restrict the free flow air but my level of comfort isn't there as yours would be having experience. I was out to the shop starting to measure mine up and make a material list today. Got the ramps and back five feet of the trailer figured out and rough designed. Going to have a 40' flat and 5' beaver tail plus the ramps. My main beams are looking to be weakening and many of the xmembers are rotting under the boards down the center of the trailer. Looks like I'd be better just building a new one and scrapping this frame as I'll reuse the axles and springs. I have all new hangers and hardware for the suspension. I liked that blue R model in the background. Looks like you folks have a pretty good interest in old Mack Trucks too.

Sorry but I find that very hard to believe..... (As I look in the mirror too)

I was scanning through photos I'd uploaded here several years ago and ran across this one taken in 1998 when I'd just completed this truck for myself. I ran this one a lot of years as it always was dependable. It sold and the other four rollbacks all went to Missouri someplace. Always liked that truck however as it just felt "right" for me. It was the only single car hauler deck so kept around for local work.

Seen a lot of trailers where the ramps were set up like that with grease zerks that didn't get attention. Eventually the grease goes away, the shafts wear, and things bind. Surprised the weldment the airbag bears against doesn't have either nylon slide pads or grease to lessen the friction. However your ramps are not that long so the effort required would be less than I was originally thinking. I was wondering about the speed at which they actuated. All kinds of ways to control that as mentioned earlier. The hydraulic ramps on mine are very linear in operation and consistently operate as my short video showed. Been thinking more and more as I clean on the shop, (which is dangerous in itself) and my trailer needs extended three feet so thinking that's what I'm going to do rather than replace it. It's served me well and all bearings, brakes, two drums, air lines etc. are new last fall so may as well extend it's tenure of service. My ramp hinge pins are a piece of schedule 120 pipe welded solid and the ramps part are schedule 80 pipe. There was about a 1/8" gap between the two, but that has worn larger over time from the friction of the ramps rotating through their arc during deployment and raising. Several years of use has taken it's toll and they rattle terrible going down the road from the clearances. Appreciate your help and time.

One thing about the 7.5" rim running 11RX22.5" rubber is if the truck has a consistent heavy steer axle load the tires will wear fine. If lightly loaded, expect reduced life as the sidewalls a squeezed a little tight rolling the outer edge of the tread outward. This causes feathering on the outer perimeter. Don't let tire pressure run low in that combination. My Mid-Liners were all carriers so had a good load on the steer axle which flattened the tread against the pavement.

Not in my shop but there is a Hercules RXLD, and Continental Motors R-6602 in another storage facility. I converted both to propane in the late 1980 and both run very well. We didn't have Waukesha engines on the small generator sets; only 500kw and above.

Accuride did list them in my catalog from 2011.

I can't say I've ever seen 22.5" X 7.5" stud pilot rims myself. Most are 8.25" wide. I did have 22.5" X 7.5" 335mm bolt circle hub pilot rims on my Mid-Liner trucks.

One of my buddies in high schools father owned a sign shop that his father started. Everything was "One Shot" lettering enamel and they were busy, busy, busy with all kinds of signs. Next time you have to remove lettering like that get some 3M "Super Duty" rubbing compound and mix into this medium grind walnut shells. Make it a paste and use rubber gloves, (of course) and a clean terry towel scrubbing in circular motion. It doesn't scratch near as bad as 'Scotch-Brite" pads do but readily removes the lettering.

22" rims are NOT tubeless!! 22.5" are tubeless.