Rob

I've always placed a single twist into the straps on each side of the load to curtail the "singing" they do when at highway speeds. Never have knotted one myself as just throw them away when chaffed as cheap enough. I especially liked the gent made no attempt to sell you something in the video.

We had a lot of 6V-71T series in generator service along with 6-71T. They were both dead reliable in those applications. Most of the 6V-71T engines in trucks I seen were of the short hood variety such as the Louisville Ford cab and General Motors products. They fit nicely and didn't require much of a doghouse in the cab. I do think they were heavily overshadowed by the 6V-92 series which were all turbocharged. This engine was seemingly troublesome unit the "Silver" series made it's debut and then it joined the ranks of reliability with the 71 series. From what I remember with the 6V-71T series was you could get power from them but they didn't hold up that long. The 6V-92T could easily attain 350 reliable and live; especially after about 1976 when they had aftercooling incorporated. These became 6V-92TA and I believe the 6V-71T was also offered with aftercooling. Both the 6V-71T, and 6V-92T were built at the same time also for a spell. My opinion is there is no finer engine on generator duty than a two stroke Detroit.

Yes, they made a LOT of them in both natural aspirated, and turbocharged. Really a good engine and relatively compact. This one is naturally aspirated:

Tractor hitch is on the way. Getting anxious to try this out as first project is to move my large air compressor, (Junior) around to the back of the shop to get him permanently plumbed into the building: 6V-71 powered 750cfm unit that runs like a fine Swiss watch. Very efficient at converting liquid diesel fuel to smoke and quite a bit of noise if the doors are open; otherwise really pretty quiet.

You can acquire sheet closed cell foam rubber and cut round circular seals easily enough. These are just seals to keep dirt from going down beside the injector body and nothing special. I'll look at my contact to see if he can get the original style still but it's been about 12 years since I've had any AMBAC injectors rebuilt so don't know if anything is readily available or not.

I started the research but never followed up. Do you have 11/32" valve stems?

Never was around David Brown tractors or implements myself but I do understand they were very well designed and built. Just don't see many of them around here other than collectors. Perkins was a very common power plant in those days as Massey-Ferguson owned them at the time and vendored the engines to most anybody willing to purchase. It's amazing how universal a compact frame tractor is around either a small farm, or homestead. They get pressed into service for anything it seems and there are attachments galore available for most anything. I'm going to build a pull behind hydraulic box scraper sometime this spring so I can do a better job maintaining roadways and drives that my truck frame and cement block affair does behind my skid steer. It is too heavy for "Hercules" to drag even with ballasted rear tires.

Hi Fred; This one has an Isuzu diesel. 199 cubic inch. My wife worked with the original purchaser for over 30 years and he did custom bale work for high end horses with this tractor. Never abused, never left out of doors so very nice. 53.2 drawbar horsepower and very smooth. 16 speed transmission and independent PTO either engine, or ground driven. I purchased that mower new in 1999 and it cuts as well as a riding tractor but I've always had to mow slow having only 23 PTO horsepower available with "Hercules". The mower deck requires 28 PTO horsepower according to Woods. Hydraulic power steering is nice but a bit "loose" feeling for me but the tractor is a larger frame so this would be expected. I installed these new Firestone four rib tires to be a bit easier on the grass during turns and glad I did. They will readily dig into the turf so something that needs accounted for when mowing: Original three rib tires: Replacement four rib type: Currently has 14.9-28 rubber on the rear and I'm going to install 16.9-28 rubber. Tires are original and tractor is a 1984 build so time citing age before problems arise. Original tires are Firestone and I'll stay with the same although cheaper can be had; I'm told the name brands are still the best and I'll have this tractor a lot of years moving forward. Thanks,

Found these of the Kubota engine teardown: Setting up to remove engine: Used one of my automotive lifts to both test the setup, and extract the engine: Built a stand to hold the engine for teardown and eventual reassembly: Fretting on number 2 rod bearing: Crankshaft is a forging and it's toughness prevailed as it could have been polished and standard bearings installed: Most forward bearing carrier with a little wear/blueing from heat. I'm certain this was lubricant starvation: Second main bearing carrier with substantially more damage: Third, (rear) main bearing carrier really chewed up good: This rear carrier had enough wear in it the crankshaft would actually "woller" in the clearance allowing engine oil to bypass the rear main seal. Main bearing shells: I was absolutely astounded when the crank grinder I use told me the crank would polish as there was really nothing wrong with it. I still wanted it ground and balanced. He does a lot of race engines so quite competent in his line of work. There have been many, many updates to this series of Kubota engine over the years and this one now has the latest ones incorporated. With the rotating assembly balanced, it runs much smoother than a brand new Grasshopper, or Woods mower using the same series of engine being brand new. Overall I'm into the mower complete for just under half what it could be sold for on average. The power of true friendship was a player in this one as the folks I help out delivering equipment were the dealer involved.

Feeling a bit better and really nice outside, I decided it would really be nice to convert some diesel fuel to smoke and noise so went out to the shop. It took damned near everything I had in me to couple these together but I did get it done: That tractor with double the horsepower and live PTO from what I'm accustomed too is one hell of a difference to mow with. Being ballasted it is just of 7K in weight. I mowed the bulk of the shop property in about 1/2 the time it normally takes and this tractor didn't even attempt to slow down. Very smooth, quiet, and powerful. Given I have many black friends and am routinely referred to as "Honkey", I christened this tractor with the name given it is a "White Farm Equipment" brand. Many have had a good laugh over this. Going to retain the former tractor, "Hercules" which I've had since 1997 as still a very good tractor; just a wee bit small for the tasks needed. Figuring I'd build some kind of hitch for the three point to make moving things around the shop a bit easier, I looked online for ideas. I ran across one of these for less than $60.00 and cannot build something less expensive, so ordered this to fit the category 1 hitch. This will allow the slip in of either a pintle hook, or ball end of any size being a 2" square receiver: Went to move my air compressor a couple weeks ago and it is quite tongue heavy with no adjustment to the roller wheel. Trouble with this is if I jerk the tongue up, many times the compressor just rotates on the axle and the lunette ring points at the sky. I don't have enough ass on me to force it back down so need a chain or a bar to rotate it back down. I've found a floor or bottle jack is the tool to use to latch it into a truck to pull it with. Once I get that hitch adapter installed this will no longer be a problem to move either the compressor, car, or skid loader trailer around with relative ease. Also got to mow with my new to me Woods zero turn mower also today. The engine is a fresh 25hp Kubota diesel and this was it's first use since rebuild. I really like it and it really has a lot of power yielding a nice cut: Picture is just before I pulled the engine to rebuild it. Don't know what went wrong but 318.2 hours and it started throwing the oil out of the engine. Did not blow up but the mains were chewed up good. I had the crank turned .2mm and installed new bearing carriers along with having the rotating assembly balanced and it is very smooth. It was a trade in at work on a new "Grasshopper" mower and ran well, but wouldn't keep the oil internalized..... Had to move both my R-612 which hasn't been started in three months, and my B-61S to move and allow for mowing. Both started as had ran last week so all good. I then went out back and fired up my 79 IH4200 just cause I needed to hear a two stroke scream as it converted fuel to smoke and noise quite easily. All in all a good day for me.

I always run type "K" copper pipe for the discharge of the air compressor to the drier, or wet tank. This is a heavy wall type copper pipe and work hardens when you bend it but excels at both cooling the discharge air from the compressor, and condensing out the moisture due to the cooling effect. Don't attempt to bend type "K" pipe by hand as it will readily kink in the bending area. I've seen the newer "teflon" stainless braided discharge hose used a lot and it works well but is expensive; albeit much easier to run. Anything needs support and both types require supporting that will preclude "drooping" or vibration to keep from moisture "pooling" in the line which will cause "slugging" of the output air.

This is a byproduct of an operator whom either doesn't care about equipment, or is busy doing "other things" than paying attention. I've actually seen this several times with aggregate trailers and there is a reason the side bows are installed as the trailer is much stronger with them incorporated. Once the "splay" starts, there is no stopping it if the hydraulic power continues to be applied. In days gone by we'd empty the tub and cut the front half, (or so) free from the rear half. Then either graft on a new front section, or replace the box complete. Replacement is the most likely scenario if insurance is involved as the frame does not appear compromised in this example.

I ordered the eight "Power King" branded tires yesterday. I've already purchased tubes last year so should be good to go. I'm not wanting to run this trailer much and it will continue to set mostly but the tires do need to hold air..... The mix of radials on there are well aged but starting to dry rot on the inside duals also. Open center rims, (Dayton) and I'm not willing to spend the money for both rims and radial tires for this trailer. I have the "Power King" brand bias tires on both of my pull behind welders, and pull behind air compressor. These have served well and only have low, local miles on them. The machines do reside in the shop so not really in direct sunlight unless on a jobsite.

Might make mowing the grass a bit more enjoyable by keeping the skeeters at bay:

Sent to me by a friend. No idea myself but looks to be a complete loss of the body:

I'm getting ready to order a set of 8 bias ply 8.25-15LPT tires for my drop deck. I've had three radial tires explode from age when the trailer doesn't move anyplace. Once the rubber ages out and dry rots/cracks, moisture starts to working on the steel belts and the result is tire failure. My 51 A-40 has had two 10.00R-22 tires explode on me inside the shop and that truck never sets outside. Again dry rotted old tires and if one looks at the steel belts, they are crusty. These have never had a nail in them either but are probably 40 years old.

I've not seen new 10.00R-20 tires myself in years. I have a virtually new set for my B-673ST, (GoodYear) but thought the size was extinct. My RL-755LST also has 10.00R-20 tires on the steer and they have been protected from the sun but are aged many years. They are in good condition. Have brand new 10.00R-22 steer tires on my 57 B-61, and brand new 10.00-22 drive tires on this one which have never seen direct sunlight. I never minded radial steer tires and bias on the drives myself. Ran several trucks that way over the years. Never really had problems but as always, always, always, good tire maintenance is paramount for them to last.

I would install a 3.70 ratio rear on Neway ARD suspension as they are plentiful, and inexpensive. Sure lower, gearing will work also as you will have plenty of available engine power, but the pricing seems to skyrocket with the later model preferred gearsets and suspensions. I don't think you'd have problems with a 2.43 ratio but the cost......

Certainly brings back memories..... Glad you got it sorted. It IS a lot of work at times and is unbelievable something can be that tight to get apart.