Rob

Here is my road drag at the shop. Works pretty good really. I use a bolt through the chain links to set the angle. Rode the thing back a couple of hours this morning and it's shaving the the high spots down. Going to use a Ford frame rail to mount another row of block to the drag so that should help out a bit too.

You might tell him it's easier on the hands with the chain wrapped around your waist to pull them. Don't let the wife know how the rust stain got into the clothes though.....

I knew it was either a 609, or 611 and early production by the look of the truck. I'd through it was one of Amaducci's by the door lettering but wasn't certain.

Best kind to have!!!

Is that not just a piece of formed channel or is there something I'm not thinking of? My crossover lines are just this and usually bolted the rear spring hangers of the front springs.

Sounds like the mechanical rack is positioned by a balanced triac assembly inside the injection pump? Basically the variable resistance offered by the electronic accelerator pedal drives a positioning circuit inside the pump to operate the rack. Pretty simple design but I'm sure there are a lots of proprietary parts involved. Never been around anything like that so only guessing on my part.

Very nice early R model. What series is that one? I usually tried to trailer my treasures home as long tired of changing tires on the side of the road, replacing busted fuel lines, (same place) etc.

Good to see another get their teeth into it. Always nice to have an interested helper. Lots can get done that way but I never did long term. Old air start solenoid valves and such were very good quality given what they had to endure. Not unusual for residual air pressure to remain for several months but years is very good.

I have a 12X36lbf I beam about eight feet long down at the property I've used for years to drag the roadway. It works well but is done a couple times per year. Easy to angle and three passes usually do it. One pass left, one pass right, then one pass centered and the washboarding is gone for a while.

My concrete pad is 70X100 and I'm finding crap lost over 10 years ago and it's big stuff!!!! 24X24? Maybe I should do something like that so don't have to look so far.....

Today was nice so I worked outside at the shop. Spent about 1/2 the day dragging the driveway, (gravel) which hasn't been graded since the business was closed. My roadway drag is made from a set of Peterbilt frame rails welded together back to back about six feet long. I used Peterbilt rails because they aren't much good for anything else. Originally they were from this: Not quite heavy enough by themselves so I line them with concrete blocks for additional weight. I welded a couple of "D" rings to them and chain it to my skid steer so has not problem pulling it around. Going to weld some addition mounts/retainers to it tomorrow to mount a second row of block for additonal weight. I need this thing to cut down and scrape and it's just too light right now.

These guys can make you a new set: https://www.scheiddiesel.com/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update

The "Thermodyne" and "Maxidyne" are both 673, (672 and change) in displacement in your example. The "Maxidyne" was a different tuning calibration to the injection pump to allow a flat but high torque rise at very low rpm to allow a five, or six speed transmission to keep shifting down. Gold paint was used to clarify the "Maxidyne" from the "Thermodyne" series.

That engine "may" have a crankshaft position sensor too. I don't know but if it does that fuel shutoff solenoid may not engage if the crankshaft position sensor does not sense crankshaft rotation. Again I don't know the electronic engines very well but automobiles operate that way.

34K Camelback doesn't ride too bad empty but 38K and above are stiff unless loaded. With a bare steel rollback, or steel slideback bed with a subframe they will be a little softer, but still no pickup truck. Going to be a challenge to round up parts to swap to Budd wheels. Need to remove a front hub, measure bearings, bearing surfaces, and spacing to obtain the correct style replacement hubs. Most of those axles used "Center Point" steering geometry which is different than standard. The spindles differ from standard. There may be a reason that truck is out west and has Dayton hubs installed. In dump truck application and pit work they are stronger, (IMO) than the Budd style wheels as far as taking abuse. The newer unimount or hub pilot style have largely mitigated the broken mounting hole symptoms, but they have their own problems too; like not wanting to stay tight.

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I think they all had stuff fall through the floor on those trucks. Especially when the cover wasn't put back over the s/p switch as it was a big open hole.

I think it's an old mechanical RGN as the front is sloped from my perspective. If you look just in front of the left dozer track you see an angle chain run from the deck to the neck. Always had to hold them up unlike a hydraulic RGN which will hold it's place. I pulled several of them in years gone by.....

Ahh gawd, a 534 Ford engine. Hard to make three mpg with those loaded most time in anything but pavement. Damned bulletproof engine but economy????? Those T-950 series were a good platform for dumptrucks. Think of all the 170hp, and 180hp Mack Thermodyne diesel trucks/tractors out there before the horsepower wars heated up in the mid to late 70's. They still got the job done without air conditioning, power steering, automatic transmission, etc.

None of my RL 700 series trucks have sockets for tow hooks. Would you mind posting up a photo of yours? All of mine have the center of bumper port with removable pin to attach a chain, or hook to.

There has been literally gillions of tons of freight moved across all parts of this country with less than 250hp.

Packers fan and it's not rotted all to hell. Good looking unit but I'd keep the "Wobblers".

Man I got so wrapped up in cleaning my shop today I forgot to snap a couple photos for you. I'll be back out tomorrow and try to remember.

I think the rubber doughnet got hard and inflexible as it aged. That one I had was stiff and rode just as bad as 44k Camelback or Hendrickson suspension bobtail on a short tractor. Mine had a 6-71 Detroit Diesel, (220hp) and RT-910 trans on 4.11 Rockwell rears. Ran good without a trailer but different story altogether when it had about 40k behind it. It did however stop very good then.....

I was there several times in the mid to late 1980's and B series parts were easy to get. Bob was always cordial to talk with. I was in the Navy then. Hindsight is always 20/20.