Rob

I'm finding things I haven't seen in years. Look closely at the layer of dirt on everything.....

Still setting on it's stands in the shop. Got all the brakes relined, rebushed all the S cam carriers, welded up and remachined the cams themselves, acquired all new brake hardware, and never put it back together. Still need to get new chambers as haven't done that yet. Here is a poor video of it running. I just had it running last week and it started right up although it's been about five years since last start.

304, or 18-8 stainless. 304 is better but I don't think Mcmaster has them. 18-8 will hold up well.

Sorry about that. Try this. Look for high stainless cap nuts in your proper thread size. See if this one will take you there: https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi6m6 If not, try this one: https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi5z2

Old style "Ram Horn" exhaust manifolds or are those something different? I've really not been around Chevrolet builds in about 30 years or so. I went into the Navy in the early 80's and haven't much exposure to the newer stuff. Center bolt valve covers came out while I was in the military is how long it's been. I see you stayed with carburetor and a hi rise manifold.

Back in my Navy days one of the Zero's, (officer) blew the six in his XKE and we installed a 350 Chevy with a kit he'd acquired. Fit well but just didn't look right with a Muncie four speed.

It's from an Oshkosh P-40 crash truck. It was mounted backwards in the chassis. That one is 425hp but is "turned up" and I really don't know the power rating but I'm told it's well over 500. It runs very well and literally exploded the transfer case that was mounted behind it in response to an aircraft running off the pavement. Govt. funding replaced the unit complete and the airport authority let me have the engine.

Pretty cool. What engine is in that car? Sounds like an American V8 engine?

When they burn open they smoke with a permeating smell that is hard to get out of interior, clothes, skin, etc.

I still think they are a good idea. If not they wouldn't be used in newer automobiles still. They tend to burn open on very short order and do not allow a simple larger fuse replacement when there is a problem. If your connections are clean, tight, and have otherwise good integrity, I'd leave them be. Don't run fusible links inside the passenger compartment; only under the hood.

Yes it would be. Most likely 14gauge wiring which will be physically larger than most of the other wiring in the circuit.

Replace them one time with these be done with it. Coat the threads with some type of coating, (Vaseline works well) before you install the nuts. Those are a Donaldson thing, not Mack. Yes, the plastic likes to either twist the nut out, or fracture. The older ones were metal. https://www.mcmaster.com/#=1cfh8zs

Unlisted was the que I was looking for. Thank you kindly for your assist.

Several of the older vehicles used fusible link wiring in the headlamp circuit among other places too. It will carry a rated amount of current and burn open in a short circuit. Others used a glass fuse mounted to the headlamp switch itself although I think that setup is earlier than your truck.

With dry filter elements no matter the media, engineering data supports the aged filter better at filtration than a new one as referenced. It's why an oiled prefilter is installed onto small engines which operate in usually extreme dusty conditions. I'm citing your power lawn mower for instance. You can do the same on a dump truck but the service interval would be short. Definitely get a filter restriction gauge installed. This is a cheap representation of a "manometer" as all filters are rated at a certain restriction level, (resistance to free airflow) to be considered "plugged", or needing replaced.

The skid steer video does not play for you? Or are you referring to the truck exhaust which was a test video? Try this: The video is my attempt at meeting 2025 federal heavy truck emission standards; at least in Rob's world.

Are you talking about the input shaft to a transmission?

This is NOT the older style with the ream to fit bushings but rather newer style with the roller/needle bearings. The king pins are different from old to new. https://www.ebay.com/itm/mack-301sq-46b-steering-knuckle-pin-set/263606141723?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Digging around the shop yesterday I remembered a few things hiding: Here is my 12V-71T engine hiding out and slated for the R-795 if I get of my lazy ass and move forward again: In close proximity to that is my 1693TA engine: Nice E6-3502V for my 58 B-61 at some point. Oh the junk I can discover in my own shop at times.....

Used to do that to the boys in the "hood" that had Schwinn bicycles as their forks were very thin and almost all of riders with the "lesser" rides, (including myself) whom rode Western Flyer, Murray, Roadmaster, Huffy, K-Mart, etc. didn't. The cool bike I remember most was the Schwinn "Stingray" with that banana seat and really tall 5 speed shifter that got everybody in the balls at one time or another.....

Pretty certain emulating what you have on the new build is going to be best and stay cost effective.

It's the fold down part I'm trying to fashion a way to make easy to work and yet not let the gate bow as so many do. Easy enough to make a retractable tongue to rise up and support the center lower rear of the gate but you would need to lower it to operate the gate in any fashion.

No big deal, just wanted to be clear. Have a helper stand and watch the pitman arm and shaft as you rock the steering wheel side to side to check for any wear in the shaft bearings. If that shaft moves up, down, side to side at all, there is nothing you are going to do about play in the gear. If it's ascertained the shaft is only rotating and not oscillating in it's bearings, have the helper watch the leaf springs at the front hangers as you move the steering wheel about 1/2 turn each way of center. Verify there is no play fore and aft there. Look at the frames where the rear of the front springs mount. If the rubber isolators are "splayed" out of the spring anchors there will be steering play. I assume you have had the front wheels off the ground and checked the king pins, and thrust bearings? The thrust bearings have limited adjustability to them.

Do you mean the pitman arm?

Didn't think to mention but a lot of B-53's had large tires on the steer axle and were hard on the leaf spring pins/bushings in the front and rubber isolators at the rear. I've seen them actually move in their mounts and the drivers swear the front end is loose. Well it is when the spring pack allows the axle to walk almost a half an inch.....