Rob

I usually do a complete replacement myself as I hate doing something more than once. Sometimes with plastic and brass, sometimes the copper lines. Usually whatever will last the best for the application.

Used to do it that way too but the Tiger tools make the job much simpler and never damage anything.

It's not bad but you will need a bottle jack to lift the rear of the cab to pull out the bushings. The bolt heads are in the cab and a helper to hold a wrench under the truck makes it easier. The cab will rotate on the front bushings enough you don't need to touch them but it would be a good idea to replace those also as they are not expensive. Worn out rear cab bushing sure make that thing "knock" don't they?????

I have a "Tiger Tool" and it works great. Remove the bolts, push the joint to the extreme of one direction, tap with a chisel and remove that cap, flip the tiger tool and pull the joint fully the other direction. You can now remove the "cross" of the joint easily and a punch readily removes the cap from the other end of the yoke. That is on a driveline I wish to put back together without changing the joint. One that is expended I just blow the cross out of it with a torch, warm the ears of the yoke just a bit, and push the caps out with a drift pin and hammer.

I don't use any other photo hosting service, (used to have photobucket) nor use any other social media other than websites so wanted to upload a few videos I've taken of trucks, equipment, and repairs in the shop so needed to learn how. I don't know if I mark them "private" if they can be posted such as the above and only links access them rather than public or not. Haven't graduated that far yet. That tractor is a1995 Case 1845C. I purchased it quite new when the original purchaser was losing it back to Case Credit for payoff value. That's been almost 20 years now, (geez where does time go) and I see no need to replace it as it still functions pretty close to as new. Certainly like to have a tracked machine, but cannot justify the cost difference for the use I give it.

It's easy to damage surrounding things in those till you get used to them for sure. I've got a couple thousand hours in the saddle so most damage is a lot more few and far between than it used to be.....

Never have done one of these in the past so let's see if it works. I'm moving a bit of snow and entertaining my grand daughter at the same time:

Yes, that is correct as built. That setup was common in the 1970's to haul lightweight finish dozers to jobsites. Lot of landscapers used the setup but DOT enforcement pretty much put a stop to the practice along with license plate fees. It became cheaper to run a pickup truck and pull a trailer.

I never participate in that crap either. Used to have fun with it a bit but even that ran it's course. Still enjoy the old trucks though although I don't know very much. I still participate in a few websites but no other means of social media either.

I still talk to a couple of folks from the early days and they have heartburn but I don't know why. Sad as we really used to have a good thing going with parts, smarts, and good general harassment. The site sure seems to have switched to short term membership from lots of folks with newer trucks having problems is kinda what I see anymore and not so much what we established in the early days. I don't do Facebook and would like to see a bunch of the familiar return.

I was looking through the roster last evening and so many of the old posters of yesteryear have not even logged into the site in over a year.....

Kind of nice to see a truck with steel split rims still being run. So many go for the shiny stuff these days. Wonder how it is to get good 20" tires there? Most seem to be China, India, or Korea import garbage in this country.

Many of the older 30/30 series will outlast new ones if only the service diaphragm is replaced. I used to purchase 30/30 "Haldex" cans 1/2 dozen at a time and then wipe them down with lacquer thinner, apply epoxy primer and paint them either gold, or black with Rust-Oleum paint. Same thing with aluminum valves that were exposed. They would last for many years this way and not rust/corrode out. These new generation, "World American", "Ying-Yang", "Ching, Chang, and Yong" etc.? I've seen some of those not last two years on a trailer that operates in the rust belt before they're needing replaced again.

Those are the "U" nuts I referred to. You can get them readily in 5/16-18 easily. I usually purchased fasteners and clips from a route salesman for all the shops but Auveco, Lawson, Keystone, etc. all have online ordering nowadays and usually cheaper than can be acquired locally.

That is usually called the "stand" and what either breaks up from fatigue, or rust. Stengle Bros. used to make a multiple piece trunion stand which could be installed without a lot of parts removal but I don't know if they still do. With are rear tag axle you would have a lot to remove to replace a trunion stand and if you have a rear plate for pintle, that much more. It's a big job no matter how you look at it.

That right there is key; "knowing what you're are doing". They don't teach that any longer. Spring brakes when rebuildable, (I've done dozens) are not hard, nor unsafe to work with. One does NEED the proper tools and setup to work with them for certain but they are not the "mankiller" they are talked of in folklore of being. Just like split rims on trucks and equipment. The dangers are slight if the right tools and procedures are used, and followed. There are dangers everyplace in life and the lawmakers have yet to legislate "stupid" out of the human psyche. The front service side of spring brake chambers are still very serviceable yet I see a lot of them shitcanned because a genuine Made in China replacement is available for just a few bucks more. A diaphragm for a service side may be $10.00, (I get good discounts) for a type 30 and it may take 1/2 hour to install total but near every time I see one of these blown, the complete chamber gets replaced when there is nothing wrong with the spring brake side. I've even seen type 16, and type 20 service chambers only being replaced wholesale using the same scenario. Guess it still goes to show I'm more of a mechanic than professional "box swapper" many of this new breed are. Of course they're not really called "mechanics" any longer, but rather "technicians". I'll let you figure that one out. In my humble opinion of course.

That is the online division of Mutual Wheel Co. based out of E. Moline, IL. They have been in business since horse drawn wagons and wooden wheels were the means of moving commerce in this country. They actually hired a young guy to set up "anythingtruck.com" several years ago to be dedicated to the task of the online ordering.

I deal with them a lot and they are good people. My place is just down the road from the home office so use their store rather than internet.

I'm thinking when I changed the trans in my R model I used wide mouth "U" nuts and sems screws on the floor panel. The rust really eats those captive nuts away fast and they spin out with an impact wrench.

It's been years but they used to have them as it's where I made purchase when rebuilding trucks a long time ago. Have your tried Auveco? They are online now. They only do automotive type clips, nuts, push fasteners etc.

That is where I've got miine in the past. Are you staying with the .3125 X 24tpi, or changing?

Those are close to what mine are but 1/2 the power. The cutoff pattern is not too bad with mine but they are bright when on high intensity; far too bright for traffic. Mine are Dick Cepek if I remember correctly. The cutoff point is adjustable as there is a dial gauge on the back of the housing(s) so it's kind of a guessing game till you get them "dialed in".

It's the latest in ecological cooling called "Air Over Load". Not quite sure how well it works however as it seems to be about as efficient as my 240 air conditioner?

Seller ended the listing for some reason.

Carbondale IL and looks like seller will ship. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Visor/332607285079?hash=item4d70f06757:g:3NkAAOSw73Nawi1q&vxp=mtr