Rob

I can't answer for Progressive on the commercial side but from the automobile side, "Your" interest is NOT their interest. Used to be extremely difficult to get fair compensation from them for automobile collision work till I and two other shops started refusing their claims for repair. Cincinnati Mutual is nationwide. Grinnel Mutual is another that is good but I don't know where all they write being based out of Iowa. Auto Owners wasn't too bad either but don't know what all they cover/offer. Stay away from Safeco and Allstate. Again, I've found "your" interest is not theirs.

I had Cincinnati Mutual for many years running salvage cars across the midwest. Always good service but really didn't need them much. Several "deer hits" and never a problem with fast, and fair claim service. Only one collision which was not my driver's fault and they really fought that one hard prevailing in the end as it didn't affect my rates.

When I ordered my rails, (80ksi steel) they sent a dimension diagram to fill out. The final product is well within 1/16" of those dimensions meaning the new rails were as close as you were going to get to perfect. The factory frame rails varied is size about 1/16", (height) and that dimension was replicated in the replacements as the new rails slipped over the originals after being cut off. The PG Adams rails fit like a good pair or gloves as can be seen here: I found PG Adams to be more expensive than other vendors but I'm happy with the product and am certain you will be too. Then I lost my marbles and don't know how to do this kind of crap anymore..... Rob

Be a long time before you wear that one out as they are much heavier than the originals.

Stengle Bros?

I usually just beat on the local Redneck trailer parts dealer. They know when I hit the door I'm there to make purchase. Usually have a printoff from etrailer, or some other vendors I want them to match prices with. I pay sales tax but seldom is shipping free so it washes out for me.

PG Adams did the rails and I laid out the holes using Mcmaster fasteners on my 57 B-61. Used my Hougen 505 magdrill to punch them through. Very accurate as all holes vary less than 1mm distant from side to side.

It is usually licensed over 16K you have to scale.

That doesn't take that much abuse and I can't see why they wouldn't hold up. Definitely get stainless nylock nuts and stainless flat washers to bind it all together.

Over 26K licensing you will and a logbook. Under that and you'll probably have no problems.

I had a local machine shop grind annular cutters the right dimension for these although I started purchasing fasteners and hardware at Mcmaster-Carr which worked very well. Use grade eight, or nine and get them tight. I always used nylocks and hardened washers with the bolts being flange head. Lot of trucks running around this area without problems using this method.

I understand fully. The way conventional B series clutch linkage runs I can't imagine how they would route an air cylinder unless there is additional linkage involved. Standard B series clutches, (push type) really don't take much effort so never realized air assist was an option. I see no reference to it in my 1965 TS-442 service manual either.

right along my lines of thinking also.

Try a general aviation business at your local small airport. Most will sell 100LL avgas which is 100 octane and ethanol free. Probably less money than racing fuel but that engine is going to consume a lot of fuel as they never were very fuel efficient.

If you could post up a couple photos of the air clutch setup as I've never seen one. Thanks, Rob

Be plenty to eat in a couple of weeks around here.....

Used to see the light blue R model on I-80, and I-55 when running cars out of Chicagoland a few years ago. The yellow stripe on the hood is the giveaway.

Good deal. I know how the slow movers roll along. I got this "Project R-12", (Detroit V-12T conversion) on the back burner along with the RL-755-LST w/Cat 1693TA still sitting in the back of the shop. Getting pretty dusty under both of them too.....

I didn't realize those lights were a custom install and how my comment would be upsetting; thought they were original. Apologies rendered. Damn, I never was around Brockway, (except a single mixer) so didn't know. Ernie doing alright? Haven't talked with him in a while. Wonder how his V-12 R model is coming along. Got mine moving slowly but need to get the manifolds welded together relocating the turbochargers and bracing to where the standard R-700 hood will fit without gouging out the inner structure.

Mack owned Brockway for a spell prior to shutting them down.

I installed a pair of 75W LED capsules into one of my R models and it really brightened things up a lot. Try a pair of those, but they are annoying to oncoming traffic. Certainly didn't mean to offend, I just prefer the older, classic look of round headlamps. Don't' think I've ever seen rectangular style in a Brockway myself. Rob

I'm along the same lines as the prior post as those V8 engines, (which I have strong preference for) are a whole lot of dollars to work with when you need parts. I don't have any E-9 series but they are getting parts scarce and very expensive for parts you do find. I've been through this with an 866V8 having to have both liners, and pistons custom manufactured for the rebuild. Parts availability for the E-9 series are getting there too.

I had my local truck parts supplier whom will bend "U" bolts for springs make mine. The material is nothing special, just short threaded rod on the ends and bends easily.

Good looking truck for certain. Personally I always preferred the look of round headlamps in those but I'm really not much into this newer, more modern stuff.

I remove the hood tilt restraint cables and use a tall stand to rest the dog upon so the hood is open "over center". I then lift the radiators out with the gantry crane many times never disconnecting the a/c condenser coil.