Rob

I did several years ago in an "MH" series cabover but it was not original to the truck. The owner/operator had it installed. It was out east in the Norfolk, VA/Hampton Roads area. Color was blue and silver with a lot of chrome and was pretty new at the time. This was about 1987.

I had two Vega GT's with BBC engines and one with a SBC. Also had a pair of Pinto's each with 302 SBF engines. Also had a 73 Pinto Squire wagon completely stock. Nothing wrong with either platform when set up right utilizing parts from Doug Thorley Engineering. Don't see too many Aerostar vans any longer as they didn't hold up too well to the rust. Aztek? Never should have been built as ugly from the get go. Former employee got one of those brand new from dealer with all kinds of incentives because they couldn't sell it. Still driving it and it's just as fugly as the day it was built, but very dependable.

Used to be supportive of this site with good pricing in the early days of this site. I've purchased a few things from them as have a couple of others have here. Always good parts accurately described.

And greater than 90 degree travel in the slack adjuster to rod angle is what the DOT cops are looking for in inspections.

That is correct. The brakes should release at 60 psi and the release valve should pop and set the brakes at 40 psi.

Wondering iF the truck you are looking at has a "Monoshift" transmission? If so it is not an air clutch but rather an air cylinder that operates the rear compound of the transmission. There would be a single shifter with a flipper valve on the stick. The clutch pedal is fully depressed to the floor to allow the air circuit to operate the cylinder shifting the compound. I think those transmissions were trdl-7225.

Your brakes should release fully with as little as 60 psi applied to them. Used to be the release valve, (usually a PP1) popped and applied the brakes at 40 psi. I would think there are problems in the system if it takes more than 100 psi to fully release the brakes.

Yep. Backfeeding problem there if nobody has been monkeying with wiring.

The spines on steering gears are usually tapered meaning as the Pitman arm retaining nut is tightened, the arm itself is physically forced further up the splines. Get really tight interference fit that way. A little heat applied around the threads direct into the arm itself will usually substantially reduce the needed force required to pull it off without cooking the seal out. .

Most times it's for ease of cab access if steps are incorporated.

I'm going to be breaking that chassis apart soon. I'll measure it this weekend when I'm back home. Hopefully it is the same as that chassis has an 11k axle under it.

I have a parts chassis out back. What size are the threads?

Have never seen a B series with an air assist clutch myself. Post some photos of this setup.

Newest Mid-Liner I had was a 1992 CS-300P and it too was a very good truck. All had BDSL-181 transmissions which gave no problems. When looking for the first truck I was warned about parts and the brake system on the 250 series. Only thing I did to modify the brakes on the 300 series was to install larger quick release valves to set the brakes. The trucks were long and exhausting the air through that valve between the seats only is a waiting game for the brakes to set.

I only had CS-300P chassis myself but I've seen CS-250P chassis with the troublesome brakes that were air over hydraulic and you really wanted to stay away from them. They always had the 175hp engines also with the one long valve cover as a dead recognition feature. The rear brakes were sorta like the Lucas-Girling types used by Ford in the 80's and 90's. Great till they started giving problems, then hold onto your wallet. Myself, never have seen full air brakes on a CS-250 but that is just me and the chassis were not all that popular in the midwest in comparison to out east. Does this truck use hub reduction axles, or is it conventional drive? All my trucks had 12k steer, and 21k rears with hub reduction, double framed and were very trouble free. All were conventional full air brakes. I rotated them through at 250k before they started becoming troublesome but really good trucks given the use/abuse they received.

That catalog is a 1992 version. Euclid has discontinued a LOT of parts since then. Those "T" cams have always been very expensive. I always used the Mack dealer for parts and never had problems but even they were starting to see problems in the mid 2000's with the Mid-Liners.

You have a different arrangement than three 89's and one 1992 CS-300P trucks I had if you can see the turbocharger, or air compressor. I had underbody exhaust however as they were rollback car carriers. The engine should be an E-3 @ 210hp if original to the chassis.

I have a Sikkens number, (probably PPG too) for the B, and R series greens at the shop in a notebook I'd intermixed years ago for the group. I'll see if I can find it today or tomorrow. I remember for the B series the base color was a Volvo automobile green which needed just a slight bit of additional toner added to match very close.

Me too being the victim of both diesel engine generators, and jet aircraft engines. I've found my eyes easiest to use finding leaks along with the pressure washer spraying car wash soap through it's injector nozzle at low pressure to be great although not too good on interiors where I use a spray bottle for that. Car wash soap is a high foaming product that clings/dwells in an area so gives you time to look around at all the fittings and connections or such.

Not this day and age. An automatic doesn't care what type of fluid it has for the hydraulic medium for a while. However water doesn't have near the lubrication qualities of any type of oil so that trans would be short lived unless serviced fairly quickly. The water and oil you added would have been on top of about 4.5quarts of oil retained in the torque converter once the car ceased moving from the oil pump no longer picking up oil to circulate. The transmission, lines, and radiator heat exchanger would have a nice "slurry" inside and been a mess but easily flushed. I don't doubt the dealership could have just replaced seals and sent them on their merry way.

Yes they are. Best with two people to handle them and then be careful you don't scratch something. Right down to bare metal you go with those things. I have two in my 57 B-61 and one in the 58 which the cab was pulled from.

Single long valve cover, or six individual ones?

Washington Post, National Enquirer, Star, Huffington Post, Inside Edition etc. ; all in bed together and deserve equal discredit dispersed and distributed within.

I have an old Kelsey-Hayes on my motorcycle. It is hydraulic in operation and I plumbed it into the rear brake system on the bike. It works very well and is very adjustable, (electric output). It is physically large and I have an inertia activated controller I'm going to try later this year. My bike, (Freightrain knows the bike) is a Royal Star Venture and the trailer weighs right at 540 pounds ready to travel.

I may be interested in the fenders. Give me a pm. My fenders are repairable but replacment with qualified candidates would be quicker.