Rob

Your newer "Tekonsha" inertia activated controllers are very good and don't take much to install.

You don't have the engine I was thinking you did.

Post up some photos of what you are working with. If the truck is a CS-300 series the air compressor is buried behind the turbocharger mounted low on the right side and the compressor is next to it. It is very difficult to see with the exhaust in place.

That would be an MS-250 w/air over hydaulic brakes and they are VERY expensive to maintain/repair. I would pass on the truck over this setup myself. The full air brake trucks, (MS/CS-300 series were very reliable minus the Renault air compressor mounted far too close to the exhaust pipe in the CS-300 series baking the compressor head and causing valve problems, (IMO) which were usually sticking open valves precluding pressure buildup.

It has the old Gemmer, (Prior to Ross acquistion) steering gear which is manual. Still seems to be good however. I drove the truck to the shop almost 120 miles without problems upon purchase many years ago.

It could be and if a Bendix or Midland compressor, the first place to look. The Renault compressors were problematic, (IMO) and my reply is based upon past experience with them times about four trucks..... He has not responded with adequate information in which to offer effective t/s with yet, so staying generic.

Those Renault compressors used on the engines can be troublesome in the valves. If you have an air dryer remove the inlet line from the compressor to it or the "wet" tank. You first need to ensure the air compressor is building airflow. Citing you are losing air very fast after limited build up of pressure, it may have exhaust valve(s) stuck open. In your wet tank if you have an open fitting that is plugged remove this and install a ball valve and air fitting. If not, remove the overpressure safety "pop off" valve and temporarily install an air fitting. Apply shop air to this and soap down the entire air system. With that massive of a leak you should hear air escaping with shop air connected.

Looks to measure 3.0" across the face of the spring leaves. Thanks,

Sounds like the politicians need to be served with some "frontier justice" to me. Didn't realize the "Kool-Aid" drink was popular in Texas. The "kid" was a home brewed terrorist and got what he deserved although cheated others out of what they deserve by him swinging in the breeze at the public square.

It looks to be right at 5.0" with a tape measure spanning the distance. Thanks

Yes, that is what I have in soft and hard copy. Need to get an updated version as mine is 2011. Same with the Meritor catalog but it's 2010. Having part numbers makes it easy to shop online. My truck parts supplier gave them to me along with access codes to download. He knows I don't make a living with trucks and wanted to help me out. I still spend quite a bit there but they try to come close on price match sometimes besting online suppliers. With in 10% and they have the business regardless.

I don't really know of any way to install a threaded insert without the clearance needed to drill and tap. A rt. angle drill sometimes helps, but the trans is probably going to need to come back, or out to do your needed repairs. I have an OTC 2000# trans jack and it doesn't struggle with any truck trans w/PTO's I've worked with which is several. An 18918B w/two air shift PTO's installed and full of oil gave no problems other than exhaust clearance. I'm not in a grass field or gravel driveway however but a piece of 3/16" steel plate would support the load and not crease from the caster weight. As Glenn mentioned, blue loctite is really needed on those fasteners too.

When is the last time you seen a driver attempt to change a flat on the side of the roadway or in a parking lot? How bout chain up an axle to get to a safer place to work or repair facility? Rather they'll sit on the cell phone and whine to a dispatcher or someone to address their woes yet complain about not making enough money.

Only Rockwell axles I've ever been around are SQHD, SQHP, and I think SSHD. I have a set of SQHD with a Detroit "No Spin" in the rear rear I'll use someplace with 3.70 ratio. I installed it about 34 years ago. Looking through a Meritor book and these are listed for a Reyco trailer spring suspension which are available from finditparts.com: https://www.finditparts.com/search?utf8=✓&s=R304816&commit= By the simplicity of this thing I may see if a buddy w/plasma table will cut the axle radius from 1/4" plate and I'll fabricate the balance. I could also use a hole saw in a drill press to do the same thing.

Grain fed heifers they call that around here.

I'll have to look as the yoke is bad and needing replaced before I do much with it. Can't remember if it's retained by a nut, or bolt, (capscrew).

It very well could be as both Eaton/Dana, and Rockwell/Meritor vendored to Mack over the years. I'm certainly no expert on rear axles or anything in general. I've seen an Eaton in an older TS manual that looked very similar with the side adjustment block in the same location. I know this rear is original to the chassis which is a 1957. It was referred to as an RAS-405, (I think) in the old Mack books.

Thanks Paul. Nobody around local does truck springs any longer. All has to be mail order which can be a pain for anything not conveniently listed in a catalog to the older set, or computer screen to the younger set.

They have had water intrusion and busted on both sides. I looked at them today. Thanks,

Have your camera software convert it to an "ai" from a "mov" file as they play easily on computers.

Nothing really for sale but let me know if you need any parts. Always looking for something so let me know if you have anything to trade. I'm going to start separating this into component parts later this and next week and send the balance across the scales. Hate to do it but I've been picking parts off of it for almost 18 years and the pickens are getting slim. The 4.17 rears are good shape and I'm going to roll the tandems out for reuse someplace. The frame is no good, the 14' dump cylinder was repacked about a year before the truck was put out of service in 1999 and has been idle since. King pins are tight and front spokes, (24.5") are not bent. There are no front brakes. The passenger side square tank still have fuel in it from all those years ago so assuming it doesn't leak. I installed the 237 engine and five speed trans into another R model back in 2001 so the poor frame has been setting that long. I've cut three large sections from the cab for donor sheet metal into other R models over the years and the cab is no good.

Ran out there and snapped a couple photos. Don't know what axle I was remembering but not this one which is 5" round. Here are a few photos. Need to get a new drive yoke as this one is stretched about .040" over the 6.092 a 1710 full round series is. Thanks, Rob Spring width is 3.00" and I also need the shoes that set on top of the springs too as these were missing. The prior owner had .750" square blocks of steel and round u-bolts bearing down on then to retain the axle under the truck.

Seen it too in 72, or 73 with the whale in the back. Remember looking the truck over but don't remember the wide whitewall tires. I do remember the chrome rims however.

Thanks Jim; yes those are a bit narrow but it is a start. Rob

Cabs themselves are not heavy. Everything stuffed into them including the loaded doors adds up quick. Boston T-bar seats are in excess of 50# each.