Rob

The E-7 series of engine is out of my area of expertise electronically. I really never worked with them as they are newer than my involvement with trucks.

The flywheel gets hot from normal usage. It is probably warped slightly and this translates into vibration. If the case it wouldn't be the first time I've seen it.

I have from my 57 Mack B-61T the original drive axle. It is a 4.25 ratio and probably Eaton built from the looks of it but it does have the corporate script stamped into it's housing. I also have a nice original frame with springs attached I'd like to marry the two up together. I have new u-bolts for the mounting but the spring seats from the axle are garbage. One was scab welded onto the housing, the other bent. The axle housing itself is fine and I welded up a hole years ago that was burnt into it inadvertently I'm sure. Where would I get spring seat for this thing or should I make them? It is a round tube housing and I think 3.5". From years ago I remember it being different than trailer axle spring seats. Thanks,

Each time you grind a flywheel you remove facing or friction surface. The allows the clutches to ride deeper, (bowl type flywheel) and increases the distance the clutch brake has to travel and it can lose it's effectiveness not being allowed to apply with full pressure due to this increased travel distance. The "shim" is installed to bring this clearance back to somewhat normal for the clutch brake to travel or compress. A flywheel surfaced that many time is probably best replaced.

My fully dressed B-61 cab including doors and interior hanging from the scale on my gantry crane was 1230 pounds. It was complete and just lifted off the frame. The only thing missing was the center panel of the floor. The driver's seat is a Bostrom "T bar" and those are heavy.

I have an 866 and don't know if the bracket is the same on an E-9 for a Sanden compressor. it mounts low and to the right side of the engine, (facing from rear) It is on the engine and I would want it back or could copy and make you one. I've not seen an A-6 compressor on an E-9 myself. Seen several "York" and Sanden through the years as the A-6 was pretty much done about 1974 in the automotive world being replaced by the A-4, but I'm not certain about trucks.

Monte's Equipment is a specialist in Continental parts. Getting expensive however. http://montesequipment.com/

Thanks Glenn, I'd have never figured that out being the technology challenged individual I am.

I could use it to replace one that somebody added a bunch of other holes into. How do you PM on this site? Rob

I had a 160 Dyna-hoe and it was a good tractor but physically large. Gave $250.00 and a case of Budweiser plus drive almost 1000 miles to pick it up. Ground the valves and traded it off to another guy with a 780ck Case as I could get parts readily.

Couldn't agree more. I strongly prefer a clean older truck in it's working clothes rather than something dolled up to live in fear it might get scratched. I'm still a bit of a purist with the RL 700 series having four myself. I knew the emblem was incorrect, (haven't lost it all yet) but it does look good on there. I'll see if I can run across the correct ones for you but they are kinda scarce citing age.

Nice truck but that color would have to go, (for me). Nice Dynahoe. Don't see too many of those any longer. 3-53 Detroit engine?

They do and it's so "greek" these days, it's what I like about them.

Amazing how many don't know the sound of a V8 engine these days and think they are a misfiring inline six. I hear it at my place. Nice to see a truck "as sprayed" rather than highly blocked, buffed, polished and massaged as posing for a photo shoot. Not sure about the RL 700L emblems on the hood however..... Maybe just me but I was thinking those were RW series trucks and since I've lost my all my marbles, I could be wrong. Nice truck and you have every right to be very proud of it.

When they have a ways to back up they deploy the national safety flag at all four corners which are bright white in color.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MACK-R-686-ST-1989/292484769333?hash=item4419736635:g:K00AAOSwpVpajuqQ&vxp=mtr

Very conventional in design and really nothing to look for except oil seals between each cylinder head which sometimes leak. It's a French designed engine so be aware that cylinder #1 is against the firewall of the cab and not the front of the engine. The french seemingly have always got to do the same thing different.....

Individual cylinder heads and rocker covers. Only Renault engines in both 210hp, and 220hp. They are NOT Mack engines but Mack designated them the E-3 series.

I'll confirm the suspicion as had several of both in rollback service. Can't answer about upgrading the power as never did. I did find the 210hp engine to be far more reliable in service over a couple hundred thousand miles too. Rust likes the cabs and sheet metal of the CS series. Both engines you mention are Renault designed and built. The 210hp, and 220hp, (Mack E-3 series) versions have six individual cylinder heads and are easily identified from the 175hp engine which has a single cylinder head.

Maybe all those other/lesser trucks needed replaced, (percentage wise) as Mack trucks are still out there being dependable; not needing replaced? Sounds plausible to me.

Yup. If it's over .015", you got problems.

I just remembered where another box of older salvaged valves are. Don't know what's in there or what condition, but I'll look in a bit when out to the shop.

Seen three sizes on Bendix with 3/8" being the most common.

Most any R model whether on air or spring could be made to drive right but it takes time, understanding of the dynamics involved, and patience; all of which limit the needed funds expended to obtain the desired results. Centrimatics, (or similar) or good old lead weights along with any good method of balancing the rotating assemblies as units were a necessity for a well balanced truck. Driveline balance is always overlooked it seems but a driveline that spins front to rear with less than 25 grams of imbalance is very smooth to the complete truck. Seldom are they balanced that close in a driveline shop. I've seen new slips and splines which need improving right out of the box. The shop in Peoria knows what I want and I've never had a problem with them through several shaft changes/modifications, or builds. They all run true, but the guy doing the work and I get along great citing old trucks and that plays. Most vocational trucks I've seen always have mud and dirt piled and caked up in the rims. This severely precludes balance from when things are clean and it's a big contributor to vibration issues I've been around. Funny about snow and ice in the winter doing the same thing and the vibration goes away if the truck is allowed to warm and melt off overnight.....

I looked to without luck. All mine are Bendix style.