Rob

Either of those two are very easy to work with. Ray brought the "Water Wagon" back from Nevada for me and the price was very fair. He also hauled a couple of sleepers from out east and was very accomodating to unload at a closed restaurant parking lot. I dragged my skid steer loader 90 miles to help us out.

A Wright 3350 just sounds better and much louder.....

I think the air/water setup came out in 1981 or 1982. This R model is a 1980 and the engine is original to the chassis.

I think either a recording syncronized to the throttle of a P&W R-4360, or Wright R-3350 would fit the bill for effects. If you've never been around those engines they make a sound you'll not soon forget.

DM series were never popular around here except with garbage packers and mixer trucks. Dump trucks for some reason were either R models, or RD models but this was into the early 80's best I remember when I left spinning wrenches and busting knuckles full time.

The cab was cut out rectangular for a crawl through many years ago. I welded in a new back panel to return to the original style rear window. This truck is to be my "everyday" driver. The current one ton Dodge is falling apart from rust. A few from back when my brains worked for this kind of crap:

I don't know for sure. The four valve E6 engines were coming out in the early 1980's but I've not seen a tip turbin setup myself past early 1982 as the move to chassis mount charge air coolers was going forward.

This is an ETAZ673A, (300+) in my white R model. This engine is slated for the 57 B-61 I posted photos of. The old R model is a good truck but many of it's parts are going to be used for donorship into others. The engine is spoken for as are the 3.87 Mack rears which will probably wind up in my 62 B-67ST.

I hate to say it but it's time to check your losses with this shop. Have another give a diagnosis in formal proposal and get the attorneys involved. You can do small claims yourself easily. If you can prove the work done as guesswork due to incompetence, you will come out quite well on reimbursement. Document everything and be prepared to present it to a judge. Not hard to do and with the funds expended over this ordeal, most likely worth the effort to right the wrong.

The 1958 is B61ST17759, and the 1957 is B61T12146. I'm probably going to go to a two filter setup but utilize a later model hydraulic steering gear setup. I have several slip and splines from other trucks so will fabricate a steering shaft to the gear. Neither truck currently has power steering and are all original. I've built a "chin mount" charge air cooler to breath through the front bumper for the E6-350 to be installed into the 58, and have a 300+ with engine mounted charge air cooler, (tip turbin) going into the 57 truck. Both trucks will be modern in driveline to keep up with today's traffic. Little of the work so far on the 57: Not much of a "Dupont Overhaul" type guy myself, everything under that truck is either freshly rebuilt properly, or new. Still need to plumb for air but the truck drives with front brakes only..... 3.70 gears and a current double over tri-plex on tall rubber would get it down the road pretty good but this truck is to replace the trusty, yet crusty old Dodge one ton so will be swapped to a single stick 10, or 13 speed trans.

I have a 57 also. I'll dig out the titles and post the numbers.

I feel this gent will keep us updated as he's been through the proverbial "wringer" with this truck. You are very correct about many signing up or logging onto a website to attempt to capitalize on other's knowledge to lessen their burden. Once their problem is resolved and gone, so are they. I tend to remember these type participants myself and am not quite so helpful the second go round.....

I have an E6-350 from an 82 "Cruiseliner" and it had a chassis mount charge air cooler. This is slated for my 58 B-61 and runs well. Had an 81 R model that was a 350hp ETAZ-673 something with the water cooled tip turbin setup. I still have the engine but it was knocking in the lower end. I'll have to look at the block for the full set of numbers. Forgot youz guys like photos so here are a few from long ago of my 58 B-61. It still resides in the back of the shop. The photos are quite old but still have it.

I've purposely not went to the broken crank scenario yet. Usually with a broken crank if the engine continues to run it is significantly down on power, (due to timing issues) and tends to emit a strange but short "grinding" noise when either the starter motor is engaged, or the engine is shut down. This is from the pieces moving separate of each other. It also highly stresses the main saddles and webs of the cylinder block many times rendering them useless. The engines tend to break cranks towards the rear and this can allow the back part of the crankshaft to "woller" as mentioned earlier in the bearings. Pulling the pan and main caps will readily reveal this with a naked eye. One can also find it easily when checking the thrust clearance as when the crankshaft is forced to the rear of the block after being forced to the front, the front doesn't move which is a dead giveaway to a broken crankshaft. I think, (from memory which is fading) thrust is taken on main saddle #5 from the front in that engine. Systematic troubleshooting through proven tried and true methods is how you find, and engineer repairs that last. A real "shotgun" approach has been taken with this truck from the time of the inframe IMO. I mentioned I don't like inframe overhauls in a vocational truck citing the extreme duty they endure and I'm getting the feeling you are discovering why my stance is so strong.

Ain't nuthin like having a full size pattern eh? This is the trailer I'll copy with the exception of the modifications listed earlier.

Nuthin. It still looks just like the photo. Still use it from time to time filling swimming pools and water wells for cattle but that's about it. Likes to have some heat in the exhaust with 5300 gallons in the water tank..... Does a great job blowing smoke rings under power along with darkening out the sun under full engine load as it runs very well.

Whatever you end up doing I want to know the problems with your existing engine. I wouldn't mind disecting this to find the reasoning behind the problems, and what was overlooked.

I have a friend in TX dealing in salvage trucks with two E7-350 engines that are known to be runners. No more information than that but I'd wager a thousand would get one of them purchased as they are informed of the dilimma you have been through and willing to cut a deal. Nothing in it for me and you will deal direct if interested.

Seen more than a few broken fuel pickup tubes in the tank on the 100+ gallon CH tanks. Which of the two fuel filters was not completely full? Primary will go down starving the engine out if inlet line is compromised from the tank or the pickup tube integral to the tank is compromised. If secondary was low but primary was full, air leak is after primary but prior to secondary filters. Regardless, filters being low are a direct indication of a compromised fuel system.

It's all in my head and you don't want to see what resides there.

Some of you may remember the old trailer I'd acquired back in about 2010 or so. It's 42' long, single drop with hydraulic ramps on the back. All this works well and with the suspension, (Hutch 7700) adjusted as it should be, tracks perfectly straight behind a truck. Haven't seen another with my own eyes that pulls as straight really. I did cut the old neck off this trailer back in 2012 and replaced everything except the outer rails along with all new brakes and hardware. Trouble is the thing is originally from New Hampshire and is quite rusty wherever it can be although functionally it is fine. Through the years I've been able to acquire everything needed, (suspension wise) on the inexpensive side, (staying with Hutch spring) through closeouts, dead stock, auctions, etc. to replace this trailer so going to build a new one very similar except three feet longer and 8'6" wide. I currently have 28' flat lower deck, 10' upper deck, and 4' dovetail to which the hydraulic actuated ramps attach. I'm going to lengthen the new trailer lower deck to 30', and the dovetail to 5' to lessen the "breakover" angle from the approach to the flat deck. The 10' front deck is fine as I don't run anything with a sliding 5th wheel nor plan to. Both my B-67, and the B-61 pull this fine as do my R models. I don't really require tandem axles on the pulling units so moving to single drive air rides as I come across them so the neck length is adequate. The "breakover" mentioned is the transition from the dovetail to the flat of the trailer deck. It is still just a bit steep for automobiles but fine for trucks. Haven't run across a set of axles yet but will probably purchase them new. Have spent a lot, and wasted a lot of time looking at rusty trailers past their service life and not too many out there in the 45' range any longer so going to build my own. Don't want a 48', or 53' trailer as too long to jockey around easily for me. Buddy at the heavy truck parts dealer I usually work with sells both Rockwell-American, and Pro-Par trailer axles. Really have no experience with either brand but both are offered in the 22.5k range I'm looking at. Pictures will come along the way as the project starts later this spring.

Same as I read Joe. Probably a repower or a resaler whom knows no better. Long lost count of how many "350hp" mack E-6 powered trucks I've seen that had lesser engines in them; most 237's over the years.....

Sure wish you were closer as I'd like to get close up of the catastrophy you are working with and had the pleasure of paying for. Any chance you could get the engine out and ship it here? I have an engine run stand but would need to make mounts, (easy) for an E-7 series to run it. Front bumpers fold like paper when they contact dirt, another truck, or in this instance an end loader. They pull back fairly easy too with controlled hydraulic force but it should have been replaced in your case if insurance was involved.

The impact did not look any kind of substantial to me from your photo. More cosmetic and maybe a frame rail bend but both easily repaired. I do believe you will find problems with the rotating/reciprocating assembly. Once you get the thrust and bearing clearances figured out there are several more areas to explore. It would be so much easier if that engine were out of the chassis mounted into a stand. I'll be straight that rebuilding/overhauling an engine and not incorporating a new oil pump in the parts list is beyond me and calls into question the integrity of the rebuild/overhaul itself. I'm hoping they didn't shove wrong bearings into the engine as not fully evaluating what was needed. I've seen reman engines with undersized bearings installed when the journals mic out for standard sizes or just barely undersize. This happens when one or two journals are clearanced and the balance are "assumed" to be the same. By virtue this engine being half assed during the rebuild, I question everything but again that's just me.

The neighbor across the alley from where I grew up in St. Louis was on the USS Lexington, (CV-2) at the battle of the Coral Sea. He told me he is one of the men shuttling down the life ropes in the famous photo but I cannot remember which one he is. He is gone now. I sailed three cruises on the USS Coral Sea, (CV-43) named after this battle, during my time in the Navy attached to VAW-127 which was a radar early warning squadron. It's where I got my start in radar engineering which I made a career of, and have retired from.