Rob

Those are called "Speedi-Sleeves" for use when there is a wear groove into the sealing surface. Ensure you get the correct seal for this usage as there are times undersize seals for these. I use crocus cloth myself to clean up most sealing surfaces as it doesn't scratch other than in the micron range.

That truck has been for sale for about five years as I was originally interested in it long ago.

For a used pump with no history it is too high priced IMO. The existing parts for your pump can be rebuilt and repaired if you can find a talented guy whom takes pride in their work. It is true there are no plungers and barrels left in regular inventory but like my V8 pump, they can be rebuilt. I used a company in Mexico and they did a wonderful job on building up the plungers and barrels. I made about half of the gaskets for the pump and sourced the seals locally by size and rebuilt it myself. I then sent the reassembled pump into a calibration shop and had it calibrated for timing and fuel delivery. It cost $125.00 plus shipping to have each plunger and barrel hard chromed and lapped to correct sizing and all other parts were reused except the pins and bushings in the governor. I had the pins made from W1 steel and ground to proper size and had a custom reamer sized for the bushings. The truck, (water wagon) runs like a "scalded dog" when you get into it as it should. I have less than $1250.00 in everything all inclusive. Relatively cheap for something long obsolete. If I were looking at a pump core I'd look to give no more than $250.00 for it if it turned and didn't have plungers stuck.

They've always been high priced and I really don't know too many folks whom will use them when the cost is out of pocket expense. I've gotten by for years using the fine thread pitch without problems.

Hey!!! I resemble that!

They are called "body bound bolts" if looking around but really only required for absolute precision in location. That being said you actually bore the hole they are to fit a few thousandths undersize and pull them into position with the locking nut on the back side. I always use grade eight flange head capscrews in fine thread for the task of suspension member location and it is close enough, (really). I also always use "nylock" locking nuts so they don't back off through the years. I don't reuse them either although they are marketed to be reusable. I don't support that thought given they retain suspension. Typically I use Mcmaster-Carr for fasteners with the occasional Lawson Products for specialty fasteners. Fastenal done "screwed the pooch" a single time and I'm not very good at forgetting with the resultant being never a consideration given to them.

Seen more than a few ENDT, and E6 series engine busted through the main saddles, along with snapped crankshafts from being "turned up" and abused. Being way overfueled and latched onto a heavy load with an impatient driver is a recipe for disaster on parts. I feel the 672ci Mack engine is at it's maximum balance of torque and horsepower for reliability when run right at standard 350hp setting with maybe 10% added to the pump calibration. I've watched Caterpillar engineers with engines in a test cell having strain gauges mounted everywhere measuring block twist under torque loading till failure. The same happens with an engine in a truck only it's not in a controlled atmosphere and the E6 does like to twist as it's a lightweight casting.

Rod stretchers at that rpm if the engine heat comes up from a hard pull.

No disagreement here at all but it's like a lot of farmers whom purchase a $200K combine to make a living with, and then don't maintain it? Never understood that analogy either but some can't see the forest because of the trees.

Used to be available new through the B model store through Watts Mack. Don't know if they are still or not however.

These are a good idea but costly for switches that will withstand the inrush current of starting a diesel engine at 12VDC. Cole-Hersee makes good ones and they will be over a hundred for the heavy duty style up to the task long term.

Really no difference between "battery" cable used in automotive applications from "welding" cable internally except strand count of which welding cable contains finer "strands" within the jacket. This is primarily where the inherent flexibility comes from along with the jacket composition. Most secondary voltage cable like typical battery cable are pvc plastic jacketed where welding cable is always rubber jacketed. It is the same jacket as "SOOW" electrical cable which is tough, yet remains very pliable in colder temperatures. I cannot agree at all on someone stating that automotive type battery cable won't hold up to vibration if it is routed correctly. Whatever cable is used in the application it needs routed correctly including rubber insulated standoff clamps, and an extra insulator where protrusions through a frame hole, battery box, (as example) or over a sharp edge of a frame rail are encountered. Typically I'll run a short section of automotive "heater hose" clamped to the outside of a cable where it has chance of rubbing on anything for extra precaution either band clamped, or shrink tube anchored so it doesn't move. Battery box enclosure entrances are always grommet lined so no sharp edges. A primary starting cable shorting someplace is almost always an instant fire so best to not be anything less than as safe as you can make it at the front.

That will work but they will get a bit warm if a long crank cycle in the colder months. Larger cables are better for this but probably a hobby truck only? If so winter will not be a large player and 1/0 will be fine. I use 2/0 for everything and can start on a single 12V battery till about 35 degrees then one battery just doesn't have enough in it to do the job. No problem with two down to about 15 degree without being warmed up via coolant heater.

I'm really happy too but I delivered my tank and picked it up from them. I was visiting my son so in the area. They vendor the tank end bells but roll the aluminum to correct diameter and do all the welding on site. Pretty impressive operation to see.

When I had mine done last year they did not have the style ends shown in the photo which match mine. The did carry the correct diameter for the application but it did not have the recesses pressed into the shape. This was for my 73 RL-797ST. I had the tank modified for the crane body we spoke of and was sold from under me so not used.

That would work alright but I'd go with either 1/0, or 2/0 for everything. I wire everything with 2/0 and good heavy "Burndy", or "Blackburn" connectors with the terminations shrink wrapped w/adhesive type wrap. Absolutely waterproof this way and corrosion is precluded greatly in the crimped area.

As Mr. Akers stated but if you will send Alumitank your end bells which are specific to Mack, they will mount them onto new center sections they will make. it can be a bit costly however to have done. I had one of my 80 gallon tanks like your photo cut down to 50 gallon to allow for clearance of bed outriggers. The tank was damaged on the top from exhaust routing so no loss there.

Probably should mention if converting a starting system from the 12/24VDC series parallel system to a straight 12VDC starting system, you need a "counterclockwise" rotation starter, (CCW). They will be available in both CCW, and CW rotation but if the starter mounts on the lower right side of the engine, (facing the flywheel from the rear) the starter rotation needed is CCW. If the starter mounts to the lower left side of the engine, (facing the flywheel from the rear) the starter needs to be CW rotation. Both scenarios are for an engine that normally rotates to the left when running, a.k.a. standard rotation. Normally I would just state driver's and passenger sides of the truck but we do have Aussie friends on the board so will be more "correct" in analogy as per "Momma's" suggestions, or more rightly yet, "threats of bodily harm" if I don't straighten up. Mack engines only use an 11 tooth starter drive gear no matter the clutch size I've seen through the years on the B, and R model series. Rob

I'd be interested in the PTO if you have no need. Rob

Cat engines like to do that. Hopefully the coolant system has had good care and the liners are not all pitted to hell on the coolant side.

Typically the double frames, (inner rail) stop near the front mount of the fuel tanks just before the "splay" outward of the outer rails. I have however seen trucks with full double frames from front to back but they were 800 series. All of the "Valueliner" series of trucks I've seen have been straight rail trucks. Best I know the "Valueliner" series started after the Hayward, CA plant was shut down and this series is a slightly lessened western built truck. These observations could be right, wrong, or indifferent but they are what I've seen.

of course I have heard her mutter under her breath, "senial old *uck" referring to me I'm certain. She only thinks I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear out of the other.

Maybe I missed a couple of changes? I remember the original site of which I favored at the start, then the next upgrade took some getting used to but never had problems after that. This time around I'm on a new desktop computer(s), laptop computer(s), new fangled things called "tablets", and a cell phone which has a lot of capacity I'll never master. Kind of hard for a technology lacking putz such as myself. Have to get my kids, or one of the young'uns at work to show me how to operate some of this stuff I'm saddled with nowadays. I have an upcoming stint at Midway later in the spring and you, I, and Storkmack will have to get together for lunch or dinner. I'll be staying at my son's in Wheaton as I never miss an opportunity to see the grand daughters. Rob

Me? "Momma" says I "done gone stupid" several times per day referring to my old age creeping up.

Well thanks man; don't really do much of anything credible any longer and tend to blow with the wind or roll with the tide kind of thing. On the hunt looking for that "tranquility" which has avoided us for many years constantly wondering what that next "step" should, or will be, and try to trek appropriately. Seemingly done alright so far and looking to the next chapter later in the year. I'll try to stick around and ad something useful if the opportunity presents itself. Rob