Rob

i've been around Farr air cleaners for a lot of years. They are probably still the least restrictive of any out there but also the loudest as they offer virtually no sound attenuation. All of the Detroit gensets I've maintained were specified with a Farr air cleaner.I'll keep you posted on the one I'm working on. What are the external dimensions to the box portion you have? Rob

Dropped off Monday evening. Haven't had time to do anything with it but it fired right up with fresh batteries and I drove it off the trailer. I then drove back up north.Ray did have minor mechanical problems on the road outside of your hometown but was able to make an emergency repair. I'll give you an update and schedule planning by the end of the week. Still buried in the basement but the job is going to be contracted for finish as it is beyond "in house" capacity. Rob

This new one does too! A really heavy pintle hitch with air to the rear. Was prolly set up to pull a nurse tank.Rob

Yes but all is fair in Rob's corner of the world.Rob

I have a couple of Sata guns for primer I really like. One has a 1.9 tip, the other a 2.2 for the polyester prime, or gelcoat. Both do a good job if used for the purpose intended. That polyester primer is a nice product if you have the time to allow it to setup. It is very high build and great for "blocking" by hand.Been a long time since I've seen DAU-75. Sure sprayed a lot of it though. I still have a can of DAU-82 and quart of hardener in the cabinet. It may, or may not be any good. Never liked DBC either. I used DBU until some of the colors were not being supplied. DBC was like spraying miniature rocks on the surface. One of the main reasons a couple of the shops were switched to Sikkens. Never really had any problems with their products except price........ Rob

I had a 401 in a 63 LeSabre, and a 425 in a 64 Wildcat and they were both very good engines. I ran around with a guy that had a 70 Riviera w/a 430 and that thing would stomp on big block Chevy's all day. Rob

I have one of their's in a B model the damned mice got to. I'm going to use it for a patter to fashion another.Rob

Weld youself up a dovetail for the trailer that can be removed with a "cherry picker" engine hoist. This can be a tongue and groove type affair with steel strapping that bolts into the trailer for retention.Rob

Well that is just fantastic cause my favorite "booger hooker" is almost grown back after smashing my finger last spring.I should fit right in. Rob

Back in 1980, and 1981 when 4X4 vehicles were so much in vogue, I used to take a bedfull of front leaf spring packs from GM, Ford, Mopar, IH and and like to them to be rearched. They would just throw the whole assembly in the furnace and burn the bushings out of them, rearch and quench/temper, then press new bushings in and the springs were better than when brand new.Rob

My grandpa and the father of the clan running the place now played cards for years. I knew them quite well and they will hand make your springs from blanks they shape to fit.Rob

I have the remnants of a U model that rolled out back. Can you get me a detailed photo of the bracket you need as the one I have is buried in muck, (sitting in mud).Rob

Try Eaton/Detroit Spring in Detroit, and St. Louis Spring Co. in St. Louis. I've used the both for years and truck shipping is not that expensive. I'll relay a couple of other names I've used also but I've never had any issues with St. Louis Spring and my grandpa had all his spring work done there for many, many years.Rob

Just put one of these in there and quite whimpering..... This one never did sling, drip, burn, or anything it shouldn't have with oil. It did smoke with a 400kw load against it however. A 600kw load would pull it down off of the governor a bit. Going in one of my R models shortly. Rob

Feeble attempt to keep them on their wheels..... Rob

Try to support those that support this hobby. Send Ray, (Mack MHE9) a pm on this site. He just dropped my truck off to my place last evening, and his rates are fair. Rob

I seen that yesterday. It is a 600 series and no V8; so, not interested.Rob

Oh and I almost forgot, Somebody to sweat, and wiggle against. C'mon, there's room on the couch for both of us. Rob

Wasn't it "Those Aren't Pillows"! Rob

And I thought my RL797L showing up tonight was a big deal. Congratulations and enjoy as it really is a good book. Rob

I am working on one from an R model for you. They are pretty much generic in housing but the mounts differ. Are your's sturdy yet? Rob

You want to get rid of him or should I?Rob

The spings with the exception of being tight are very straight forward to work with. If you are patient and work with the front spring pin, and don't bust something beating upon it, the job is not that difficult. Don't be under that spring when it comes loose from it's mount! Damned things are heavy. Used to use a lot of Dodge bearings and gearboxes, along with Tulsa, and Braden drives for mechanical power transmissions in the sawmill equipment manufacturing industry. Falk was another of the gear reducers used a lot but only in very large, (100+ horsepower) applications. Baldor/Reliance were always the motors of choice to use for quality and a long lasting product. Cheaper motors, well, you do get what you pay for. Rob

Expensive stone segments too!! They come apart with some force and are very short. I seen a crankshaft grinding wheel come apart at speed once and the damage to a concrete block wall was enough to teach me to "ring test" any rotating vetrified wheel!! I usually block up behind the rear hangers of the front springs to hold the truck. I also place a single stand under the front xmember to take a little stress off the frame. I have tall stands but prior to having them, I used six, and 10 ton stands as they were long enough for the job. Rob

Pretty close to correct. The rear of the top of the transmission has a pair of air shift cylinders integral to the cover. Raise the cab rear if needed and remove the bolts retaining this cover. Lift the cover and stub forks from the truck and rebuild on the bench. A rebuild kit from PAI is about $20.00 and go through the "Selectair" valve on the shift handle also. The regulator pressure should be around 65psi for those transmissions. Don't kick it up or it's hard on shift forks which are expensive. Rob