Rob

WTF!!! Enlarge the photo!! Us old slobs can't see that small shit. Rob

I can't make the choice to participate or not for him. I don't however encourage anyone to run away from problems but rather address them "head on". I thought my influence upon his upbringing would yield a better result, but he still has a lot of growing to do.Everybody knows there is much more good about this site than bad. If one cannot take the bad with the good, they should probably not participate. It's like a person that can dish it out but not take it. Pretty soon one is either left to their lonesome, or is picked on incessently. This is kinda/sorta like you guys do with me and make me feel so sad I just want to cry. Think I'll go find a fresh tissue now. Rob

I don't know your area and certainly wouldn't risk an impound but that's just me. Around here, I'd not hesitate.Rob

Take the little truck as you are more comfortable with it and a car hauler trailer. No law to worry about and I'm assuming you don't have the correct license for the International? Rob

I wouldn't doubt given the age of the truck, and the placement of the damage, it gets a new hood installed. Although that break looks superficial, it is in the main load bearing portion of the hood. The hinge area always takes the brunt of usage.Rob

That repair will prolly run through 22-25 Franklins to get right. Rob

I don't look for, or mean for that to actually happen in any shape or form. Got to keep a "one up" on them women type or they'll leave you in the middle of the floor babbling and shit. Rob

Tell her since her friends got to see you without a hat, your friends should get to see her without any clothing.Fair is fair you know. Uncle Rob

Thanks for the update.

I had a couple of guys that liked the 1.2 tips on guns but I couldn't get used to them at all. Not enough material throughput. Damned hard to "tiger stripe" with the small tips however. I've had a lot of spray guns through the years and non bust up the metallic content more evenly than "Accuspray" in my opinion. Those guns however are very time consuming to maintain but the material savings through them offset the inconvienience greatly. I have three of them still.When I was getting my start in 1973 in the auto body industry, Centari was THE enamel to use. You put that down with 793 hardner, (panel hardner) and use 3602 thinner, it was ready to push out in the rain in about 30 minutes. You could buff in an hour. Just the ticket for high volume shops at the time. When 780S clearcoat became available in 1981, I started using it after Centari set up without problems. As with most first generation products, there was both a learning curve, and minor problems to overcome but these were all worked out. DeVilbiss spray guns: Now there was the ticket in the 70's. An MBC Devilbiss, .035 fluid tip, and a number 80 aircap and a smooth steady rythm, even a novice could make either lacquer, or enamel look good with little effort on an open floor. Lot of guy, (and girls) liked the Binks Model 7, but it just didn't fit my hand as well as the DeVilbiss products. I had MBC's, JGA's, and several other variants. The industry has changed significantly since I exited selling the corporate entity in 2006 to an investment firm including all my interests in the operating shops. I retained my own commercial property, infrastructure/equipment, and rights to "dabble" in a bit of side work, but cannot, (and don't want to) be around a production shop atmosphere again. The "margin" is just not there like it used to be. I have only been employed by a single auto body repair facility in my time, and was fired from there cause I "couldn't get along". Rob

Very easy to do with stainless hardware. Main problem with stainless is that it's much weaker in composition than carbon steel for the same size. Type 316 is a better stainless to use than 304 when corrosion resitance, or strength is required, but it doesn't polish up like 304 does.Rob

It all starts someplace and the rest is history which has yet to be discovered.Rob.

I use a 1.7 tip on my clear gun that is gravity. My base gun, is the 92 Sata using a 1.4 tip. It is not HVLP and I like it. It also uses more material than the Accuspray which has a 43 tip in it for clear. I lay it quick and seldom need to do any finish work. It is fast but I can still get around an entire pickup truck without having melt in problems. Four hours later with just the fan running, (no heat) I can start to assemble carefully. I really don't do completes but a side is about as much as I'll handle any longer. When I had the "SprayBake" booth operational, (for two painting operations simutaneously) I could get a car sprayed in the room and be drinking a Coke before the painter would even be 3/4 finished applying his clear on the same size job. 10 minute flash time between coats in that room works very well @75 degrees. I suppose it's what you get used to. Rob

Reminds me of the devil on one shoulder, and the angle on the other in the movie "Animal House".

I'm down with that. Rob

I meant EN-291. It looks just the same as my EN-377 on the outside. Probably better on fuel economy too........Rob

My A40 with an EN-377 engine has a TR-67 trans and it's considerably smaller than the 72 series. Rob

I know Kevin and have spoken with him several times. Very nice guy and knowlegeble in the old stuff we are attracted to. If I were in your predicament I'd roll another rear axle housing under the the truck. You probably have a 1700 series driveline which is very common. Don't think I'd go any higher than about a 4.30 ratio in the rear myself. I'm assuming you either have an EN290, or EN330, or 331 engine? Those would get along alright at 55mph if not pulling anything heavy.Vinny is a good kid. Hope I didn't bust his chops too bad but he does have some growing up to do. The membership supports him and I don't want anybody to treat him any different than any other participant/adult. However, if he wants to participate he shouldn't expect the membership to act his age either. He gives up and verbally throws in the towel much too easily. There is a myriad of talent embedded in this site and he'd be foolish to wash that out over something so silly as humor. Hopefully he'll get over this latest pout session and return. As I said earlier it will make him a better young man. Rob

I would have thought it would have had a TR-67 unless someone ordered the larger trans. That is a large trans for the engine.Rob

He never mentioned pulling a reefer but the truck was set up for dump trailer work also.Rob

Is that "Euro" clear in an red can? If so, it is much too fast for anything but cut ins and very small parts as you mention. The product I liked and still use is in a blue can with two different activators. Never have had any problems with it and seldom need a buffer. I have a heated spray room, (full downdraft) and still like my old Sata NR-92 for basecoat, and the trusty "Accuspray" for clearcoat unless doing rockers. Sikkens is an Akzo-Noble product from Holland. It matches pretty fair but has lost a bit of edge through the years. I liked the original 3M crepe tape, and the early green tape they came out with as it took a bake cycle pretty good. Never really had any curling problems or adhesive separation. We tried several tape brands but always came back to 3M after beating on the salesman. I did not purchase tape from the paint supplier but rather direct from a 3M distributor. Rob Rob

DCC Concept was a very good product when the genuine DU5, or DFX7 hardners were available. Glasurit never caught on around here as they couldn't break the Spies-Hecker line. I demo'd it but never went that route as Sikkens had much better vendor support. Omni I found great for the used car line but the lack of blending offsets, and the lack of good color holdout were definate drawbacks. Place a car in the sun for six to nine months and bring it back in to paint match it and there is a chore for an inexperienced painter. The Omni line of clearcoats did not have enough UV screeners in them to hold up long term, (my opinion) but you do get what you pay for. Never had any problems with Transtar products but they market a lesser expensive line, and the upper line which I think was called "EURO" but can't remember for certain. Always used 3M tape, masking paper, and plastic covers as they were of a seemingly better quality than the generics. Some of the Norton sandpaper was better than 3M, some was worse so that took some getting used to. I pretty much quite using metal conditioner as it seemed to never get rinsed off properly and the runoff down the sides caused paint problems later on; ie. comebacks. I think PPG's number for wash primer was DX-171 but it's been awhile so could be wrong. It was a dull yellow transparent color. Rob

Rivnuts, or nutserts are what those are called. Some call them jacknuts also. The best ones have a silicone O ring around the flange, or the head is encased in a silicone jacket. These don't leak unless they are removed and reinstalled. They are a one time use fastener.Rob

PPG's DP series epoxy primer was really good until they were forced to remove the lead content in it and then it was called simply DPLF primer. It is still epoxy based but not near as good with corrosion resistance as it used to be. The grip to bare steel is not a "tenacious" as before. I always purchased DP40, (gray/green), DP48, (white) and DP90, (black). Never purchased any of the other colors as these offered good color blocking by themselves, or mixed together. Rust converters aren't really any good in my opinion. They are for the most part phosphoric acid based at about 2% concentration. If a person is to use a wire brush, or blast rust from the pores of steel, then apply the acid for about five minutes keeping the surface wet, the grain will actually be "raised" promoting a very good bonding surface for undercoats. This is all your so called "metal prep" solutions are with the addition of colorant added for marketing. Back in about 1998 or so I moved0 to "Transtar" undercoating products due to cost, and they still had lead in them. In my opinion their products are very cost effective to use including their "high solids" clearcoats/activators. I eliminated PPG out of the shops in the early 2000's and moved to "Sikkens" due to dealer representation. In this area, PPG just priced themselves out of the market. I still have a Sikkens mixing bank in my hobby shop and the paint is kept agitated. I still fix a few cars ever now and then...... Rob

HI Gary, yes that is what I was referring to but the tubing needs to be "seamless". The high injection pressures and vibration will split normal tubing. Rob