39 Baby Mack

Happy belated Birthday Gregg, I hope you had a great day! Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bob Honour from Matlack had something to do with the Centrimax filter too. I don't remember for sure where I saw it but I remember the Glacier name. It was either on one of the housings or an element at one time. Thank goodness they came up with this for the ESI plus service interval. The 58 qt. oil pan was a disaster in the making in my opinion. If it didn't crack, I'd worry about something hitting it. Ron

I always thought WGB was one of the suppliers too. The Mack Co., I always thought had some pretty strong ties with the WGB Oil Clarifier Corp. of Kingston, NY Weren't they the ones the Mack Co. worked with to develop the full flow/bypass oil filter that was first used with the introduction of the END864 V8? Ron

Ken, I don't think there was any difference in how easily the filters were to remove torque wise. I always thought it was just a difference in materials and in my opinion the Baldwin filters were stronger and wouldn't collapse as easy. That might be all different now for all I know. I can remember when the Mack filters used to vary from time to time. One time you'd order filters and they would be gold. The gold fuel filters would have different colored lettering on them (red for primary, green for secondary). Seemed like next time the filters would be different colors? Might have been whoever gave the Mack Co. the best shake that week (WGB, Fram, or Purolater)? The oil filters were always hard to get off, as I said above you had to use a little finesse getting them to break loose. The filters on hobby trucks I would imagine are even harder for the simple fact of how infrequent the filter changes are compared to when they were used in regular service. This is the wrench to use when removing the oil filters, this and a 1/2" drive long ratchet with a 1" extension. Ron

Just looked, Watts Mack has them for $46.47 They also have the clip for the lock tumbler if you need one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I don't know if they're still available or not, they used to sell a kit that had 2 door key locks and an ignition switch tumbler so you could re-key them. Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If I might make a suggestion, I'd go to a glass shop and have the door glass cut out of laminated safety plate. They may have a pattern or access to a pattern via the internet? The part number for the window channel is #440SX30A, it comes in one piece, you can use it to go around outside of door or in the lower metal channels in the door panel (cut to fit). Comes with clips to hold it in. You can find them on Ebay. Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Look on the side of the door right by the latch out toward the outer edge. You should see a slot about an inch long. There's a spring clip located in that slot, that clip is what holds the lock tumbler in the door. It snaps in. There's a ledge formed into the clip that keeps it in the door. To remove it gently pry it out of the slot. Once you pry the ledge out of the slot it will pop out a little bit. Then grab the clip with a pair of pliers and pull out away from the door. Pull it out till it stops then you should be able to remove the tumbler. You have to remove tumbler before you can remove the window access panel anyway. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If you don't have a wheel dolly you can always use a piece of tin with oil on it. Be careful sliding the wheel/tire assembly back on so as not to damage the new seal. Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The lock tumblers or the latches? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If it doesn't have an MP motor in it they probably couldn't care less! Ron [emoji19]

That it does Mike!

I've used Baldwin filters since I guess the early eighties. Always had good luck with them. After having problems with Mack branded oil filters crushing when trying to remove them (even when grabbing them all the way at the top by the clinch bead) The last straw was when I had two of them on the same truck have the shell start spinning without the top of it! Put the filter wrench on the first one up high and started to finesse it off, good, it broke loose, wrong the shell was just spinning, WTF! Second one did the same thing, WTF!!! Had to chisel both of them off! Never had that problem after I changed to the Baldwin filters. Only problem I had was with one of our employees named Jim who was many years my senior. First time I ordered the Baldwin filters Jim and I were opening the cases of fuel filters and when we got to the scondaries I saw the look of disgust on his face. I knew what the problem was but asked him anyway. "They're all red!" I said "that's why they have numbers on them, if it will make you feel better I'll get you a can of green spray paint!" Needless to say he wasn't very happy with me! Ron

Baldwin Filters Lube B76 Lube Severe Service B76SS Primary Fuel BF877 Secondary Fuel BF876 Secondary Fuel ESI PLUS BF976 Coolant ESI B5176 (no chemicals) Coolant ESI BW5178 Coolant ESI PLUS BW5179

Baldwin #BK6700 ESI Service Kit 5 spin on filters. 2 lube, 2 fuel, and coolant Baldwin #BK6710 ESI Plus Service Kit 6 spin on filters 3 lube, 2 fuel, (extra service scondary), and coolant (extra service) Ron

Veeery interesting indeed! Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Gregg, Looks like you're right, a guy posted an early Interstater brochure on Facebook dying breed diesels. It had the olive green plastic dash with believe or not a still different heater box. I asked him what year the brochure was and he said it was dated '73. So it looks like the R+3 plastic dash came out about the same time. Still can't understand why one would be tan and the other would be olive green! Was there ever an olive green R+3 plastic dash "R" model, I've never heard of one? Ron

There are a couple of other differences in older plastic dash "F" models and later ones too. The first ones had a different heater/AC box in them with 5 lever controls on them, later ones only had 3. The glove box/cup holder arrangement was different on them too (they both sucked, how in the hell are you going to keep something in a cup holder that's only about 3/4" deep, especially in a truck)!!!!! The first plastic dash we had was a '75, it had a tan interior, older heater box, and flat channel bumber just like your '63. The next two we had were '78s, with the later heater box, glove box arrangement, and had the bigger bumper with the tapered ends. Funny thing about the bumpers, our father, God rest his soul, must have seen a later F model somewhere in his travels and really liked the looks of the new bumper. He liked it so much he ordered one and had it dropped off at the shop. He wasn't too pleased with my brother and I when we told him it wouldn't fit on the older ones. "Why not an F model is an F model !" Oh well you'll have days like this! Ron

Gregg, We had a couple of '69 F models that were olive drab, steel dash of course. e also had a '70 that was the same way. The 86" sleeper cab ( Bustleback) came the same time the dash was changed. I think this was also the same time they got the moniker of "Interstater" I just always thought they predated the change to the R+3 cab because the first ones came in the older interior color? Here's a couple of pictures of early plastic dash F models in olive green. Ron

Greg, What year did the plastic dash "F" model (Interstater) come out? I've never known for sure but I always thought it preceded the plastic dash R+3 cab. The only reason I say this is because the first plastic dash "F" models had an olive drab dash in them and I never remember an R+3 cab with anything other a tan interior? Ron

Mike, Did you take a good look at the rear suspension on the beast. I saw it at Macungie last year before the body was on it. Ron

I would think it would work. I'm not sure how different the compression ratios are of the two engines. Cubic inches they're identical 4-7/8" × 6" =672 C.I. The injection lines might even work, either way I 'd change them to the hi-rise lines (back 4 between the valve covers instead of between the heads). Biggest problem right off the top my head would be the injection pump drive. 673s and early 675s had a ball bearing style pump drive housing. Later 675s through the E6 production had an aluminum pump drive housing with a bigger shaft and no bearings. Your pump probably has a tang drive on it. The shafts on the 676s I'm pretty sure we're made for the celeron drive coupling. They did make a shaft with wide tangs to fit into this drive housing. You're pump is an APE6BB 90...... which means it has 9mm plungers in it so it has the smaller tangs on it. There was a special coupling that went between the drive in the motor and the drive on the pump (2 wide slots and 2 narrow slots) for this application. I don't how available these parts are today? There were a couple of different oil pump ratios also. Depending on how old the ENDT673 is. It might have piston coolers and it may not. There was direct driven (15 teeth on oil pump and 15 teeth on air compressor/ oil pump drive gear) and over driven (13 teeth on oil pump and 17 teeth on on air compressor/oil pump drive gear) Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

There are actually 2 different style KD #517 marker lamps. The #517 which has a curved base to fit on a curved roof (B model etc.) There was also a #517F which was made to fit on a flat roof. Early "F" models had these, Greg's F model has these. I always thought these were very clever the way they were made. Both lamps use the same door (bezel) and lens only the bases are different to fit the different roof shapes. The #517F base is flat on the bottom but is formed into a curve on the top to match the contour of the door for the regular #517. If you think regular #517s are scarce I wouldn't want to try to find the #517Fs.

Very sorry for your loss! Ron Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Looks great Larry!