39 Baby Mack

Great lookin' "R" model! 22,000 miles, it's brand new! Ron

Lookin' good! I agree with Mark though, it would be just about perfect with a sleeper! Ron

Congratulations JT! Ron

You really narrowed it down Mike, about the same way I would! Ron

Mark, That's absolutely amazing, and downright scary! Ron

That's the short cowl. Maybe it could be modified but I don't know how much work would be involved? Ron

This is a picture of a larger "E" model. Pretty sure it's an "EH" This has the longer cowl on it, notice that the upper and lower belt rail ribs end in the cowl and don't extend into the hood. Notice how wide the cowl is. Very confusing to say the least. If you look in some of the books I've seen pictures of "DE"'s with long cowl cabs as well. And last but not least the first "E" model cabs were composition cabs with wood frames and tin tacked to the framework! Ron

The belt rail is the dividing line between the upper and lower parts of the cab. The belt rail I'm referring to is the three ribs punched into the cab. They run all away around the cab, through the doors and end in the cowl with the one wide rib ending at the front of the hood. "A" model on the left with long cowl. "DE" which is an "E" model on the right with short cowl. The "DE" was the next size up from the "ED" The "DE" was brought out a year later in 1939, the "ED" was '38. Never heard this from any authority but always figured it came to be as an afterthought. They had the "E" series established and then they decided they needed one in between the "ED" and the "EE". What are we going to call it? Let's flip the letters around and call it a "DE"! Ron

There is, I believe, another difference which could be a problem. Some of the smaller "E" models have a shorter cowl on the cab. If you look at the ribs in the belt rail there are three going through the cowl to the hood. On the cabs with the longer cowl the ribs end in the cowl. On the cabs with the shorter cowl the bottom rib ends as a separate piece that slides onto a clip on the hood. All "A" models have the long cowl that's how there was room for the vents. Also although this doesn't make a difference as far as dimensions go the "E" model has an opening windshield and the "A" model windshield is fixed. Ron

Were used in submarines and railroad locomotives. Here's how they worked.Fairbanks-Morse 38D8 Diesel Engine.zip Pretty neat to say the least! Ron

Jim If you tried to explain how a 2 stroke Detroit worked and he didn't get it you should've went one step further and tried to explain how a 2 stoke Fairbanks Morse opposed piston engine worked with no valves at all. You would've really had him shaking his head and talking to himself!!! Ron

Sorry to hear of his passing. Prayers and thoughts to you and your family. Ron

Welcome aboard, nice looking little "E" model! Ron

She's a beauty! Looks like a new one! Ron

Nice looking H model, thanks for the pictures! Ron

That's about the truth Randy! Ron

Congratulations! Good lookin' boy! Ron

It's a guy thing Matt------- There's no challenge if you don't wait till the last minute, would take all the fun out of it if you didn't!! Ron

Lookin' good Larry! Ron

Randy Unfortunately that's about as a big a Mack truck as I can work on anymore! It's been in the family since 1968, and basically been mine since 1980 so I've grown pretty fond of it! If I had room and could work on them like I used to I'd have that old H-61 of ours that Mike Yarnall has to go with it! Ron

Yea I know what you mean The fuel gauges didn't work in most of our trucks. We would try to keep them working but after awhile just gave up on them. The drivers were experienced enough, they use to write down the mileage when they fueled up and would keep track of the mileage. This worked just as well, they knew when they needed to fuel. We had one driver who everybody else kind of kidded because he wouldn't run as far as everybody else did between fueling. I can still hear him, when they would kid him about it, replying in a deep voice "it's too big to push" !!! Ron

If this a normal old fashioned fuel gauge and they haven't f----d them up yet? They work to ground. They're should be two wires on the sending unit, one under one of the screws holding the unit in the tank which would be a ground, the other in the center of the sending goes to the gauge. If you put a jumper between the two, with the key on,the gauge should go all the way to full. If it does then it is more than likely that your sending unit is bad. If it doesn't then the problem is more than likely in the wiring. Ron

Watch out for that guy with the F.W.D! Were not to sure about him! Ron

Truck looks good Vinny! Great video, thanks for posting. I'm with Ken, I think you should bring it to Gerharts! Ron

Very well put Michael! Ron