39 Baby Mack

The flat bed is a 2000 Great Dane-----ABS brakes. What year is the lowboy? Ron

I personally prefer the Mack power gray, like 84superdog stated, it's a little thicker and goes on pretty nice! Ron

Larry The reason for the idea of the electric signal is it would take the place of air signal to the relay valve. The electric signal could travel to the rear of the trailer to work the relay valve quicker than the air signal does now. Ron

Does it have a Mack front axle in it? If it does they sure have changed them a lot! Ron

I'll say, but to bring it back to trucks again there was talk about them doing that on trucks too. Saying it would take less time for an electrical impulse to reach the rear of the trailer than it does for the air to get back there. Same old shit people trying to fix things that aren't broken!!! Ron

Wonder what they would have done if you asked for a hoagie? Ron

One of the most unusual coins are the 1964 Kennedy half dollars. This was the first year for them and the only year they were 90% silver. After that they were copper and nickel . Do you know what 64 half dollars are worth? Believe it or not they're worth $32.00!!! Now think about that for a couple of minutes!!! Ron

You mean old farts like me! Hope to see you at Macungie, would love to meet you! Ron

I hope you not asking this question because of me? HA HA HA! Ron

Happy BIrthday! Ron

I hear you! Been there done that! Very embarrassing! Ron

Sorry to disagree but they don't work like train brakes. On a train, like you said, you make a brake pipe reduction in the train line to make a brake application. This makes the valve on the car send air from the reservoir to the brakes on the car. ( I think they used to call it a triple valve?) That's the only way it can work-- there is only one brake line through the train. On a tractor and trailer there are two-- the emergency line feeds the trailer reservoir and keeps the brakes released. The service line is basically a signal line and triggers the relay-emergency valve on older trailers without spring brakes or the relay valve(s) on trailers with spring brakes to actuate the brakes. Ron

Larry They would leak down over time, some would hold longer than others. I've backed under ones that have sat a week and wouldn't move and others that were parked the night before and started to roll off. We used to have folding landing gear on these old trailers with honest to God steel wheels on them (no adjustment up and down) in this case you used wooden blocks under the dolly wheels to adjust the height when you unhooked the trailer. I always preferred using the term unhook rather than drop because that used to happen once in awhile! I can remember backing in under these old trailers and seeing the trailer start to move. Now when that happened the proper thing to do was to (STOP!) and hook the air lines to the trailer and charge the brakes then continue back until the fifth wheel latched---makes sense right? Well that meant you had to get out and hook the lines to the trailer, which sometimes were a little short depending on how far you got under the trailer before it started to roll or find some more lumber to block the wheels on the trailer. Another game you could play was "see if you can catch the trailer" this was played by quickly dumping the clutch while in reverse and hopefully hook the trailer before it rolled off the blocks. If it rolled off the blocks before it hooked it would then be to low to get under it without more lumber and a couple of bottle jacks to pick the trailer up! Dumb game to play but I was guilty of it too!!! Most times it worked but when it didn't it made you feel like a real asshole. How much time did you save from being lazy and not hooking the air lines up? Ron

How about the VIN# or chassis# for the truck? A picture might also help? Ron

On all the old trailers I've ever dealt with a trailer without spring brakes had a relay-emergency valve mounted to or fed by the tank on the trailer. they had the emergency line and the service line going to this valve coming out of this valve were delivery lines either two for a single axle or four for a tandem that feed the service chambers on the axle(s). When in normal operating position the emergency line in the trailer constantly feeds the reservoir with air through the relay-emergency valve. When a service application is made air going through the service line to the relay-emergency valve opens a valve in it and allows air to flow from the reservoir to the chambers to make a brake application. When in emergency position, when you put the tractor protection valve in park to drop the trailer, or in the case of an accidental separation air is cut off from the emergency line and the relay-emergency valve then directs the air from the tank out to the brake chambers to lock them up. That's what enables you to pull out from the trailer without it trying to follow you. Or in the case of an accidental separation would lock the brakes on the trailer so it wouldn't be so wildly out of control. The relay-emergency valves that I was used to dealing with on our old trailers were either B&W RE-4's or Sealco A-1000's. The Sealco's looked like a flying saucer and acquired the nickname "Flying Saucer Valves" Ron

It's a model AB Mack built I'd say after 1920 due to the larger tube and fin style radiator. Someone else is going to have to suggest watch you should offer for it. Ron

Bulldogs and Bowties, doesn't get much better than that! Ron

You must be a twerp Randy That's one of the definitions of a twerp (a person who sniffs bicycle seats), just have to make sure you find the ones with the low center frames!! The other definition is (a person who farts while in the bathtub and then bites the bubbles)!! Ron

Are you sure about the direct activation of service brakes on a trailer without spring parking brakes? A B&W RE-4 valve acts as a relay valve and an emergency valve---hence the name Relay Emergency valve. Ron

Unfortunately they're not made out of copper anymore----copper plated zinc!! Just like everything else---they don't make 'em like they used to!! Ron

How old is the line? If it's old and the inside liner is either cracked or deteriorated it could be sucking air or blocked inside the line. Ron

It should have two fuel filters on it a primary and a secondary. Supply from the tank should go to the primary filter then a line from the primary filter to the rear of the supply pump. The line on the supply pump under the primer pump should go to the secondary filter and then back to gallery on the injection pump. Ron

Welcome aboard Tom! Ron

I'd go along with the "BFH" or you might even have to resort to using the "BMFH" whatever they are?, but I'd definitely stay away from the heat. Ron

Leslie Did you check the faces of the check valves (smooth, flat, and no cracks) How are the springs for the check valves and copper gaskets where the plug and primer pump go into supply pump? And finally how is the primer pump? I would think the supply pump would have to be pretty damn bad for the primer pump not to be able to build pressure. Also check all the lines, including the lines from the supply pump to the secondary filter and back to the gallery in the pump. The only other thought that comes to mind would be the overflow valve on the pump, could have a piece of dirt in it or a broken spring which would not allow it to build pressure. Ron