39 Baby Mack

Kent What size did the bolts end up being??? Ron

I know what he should have done with the cap and wires!!! Ron

Mike The pistons are always the same size, it's the O.D. of the liners that fit into the bores in the block that change. These could be different sizes from previous rebuilds or a lot of other reasons. If the bores in the block are out of round or tapered then they have to be either honed out or machined to accept an oversize liner these have to have a good snug fit so proper heat transfer can take place. Ron

Congratulations, looks kinda neat with the budd wheels on it, not what I'm used to!!! Good luck with i!!. Ron

All the dry liners for a Mack six cylinder are the same unless they are made for a fire ring or are for an END 711(5" bore). What you need to do is clean the bores out in the block and measure to see what size O.D. liners you need. Liners used to come in std. , P2(.002" over),P4(.004" over) P6,P8,P10,P12,P20,P30---don't know how many are still available. I used to use a trick to find out what size liners were in an engine after I removed them---using a ball faced mic measure the wall thickness about an inch up from the bottom of the liner. Here's where the memory fails me, used to be a std. would mic out at either .107" or .109" can't remember which one for sure but think it was .109". So if you check the thickness of the liners and they mic out at .110" they would be .002" over or P2's, if they mic out at .111" they would be .004" over or P4's Hope this is of some help to you. Ron

Happy belated Birthday, hope it was a good one!! Ron

That's beautiful!!! Ron

Brian Look in this section, under the topic adjusting valves on 676, it will explain the procedure. The only difference is the E6-350 is a 4 valve engine with a dual pointer on the timing gear cover. The first pointer is for timing the injection pump and the second is for adjusting the valves, they should be marked pump and valve. The one for adjusting the valves is second one you come to in normal rotation or the one closest to the top. Ron

Don't feel bad I had a truck with an E6-350 4V broke down in Fla. one time with water getting into the crankcase was told by a garage we had look at the truck that it was a bad liner seal. I told the guy on the phone that E-6's were dry sleeve engines not wet sleeves, he didn't know what to say!!! Told him to please leave our truck alone.!! Needless to say we brought the truck home on a lowboy, fixed it in our own shop, was the oil cooler bundle!!! Very scary sometimes-----the people that you get to try to work on these things!!! Ron

This is really neat, a great story, great advice, and a very thoughtful gesture!!! Ron

The injectors are inside the head under the valve covers. This may be a longshot but the return fuel from the injectors runs in a gallery machined in the cylinder heads. I don't know how thorough a pressure test was made on the cylinder heads, but maybe could be leaking internally in one of the heads??? This is the closest place that I can think of that these two fluids get to each other in this motor??? This is a real puzzler to say the least!!! Ron

The date of the truck is supposed to be 1997, that would make it an E7 not an E6 so it would have the half wet-.half dry sleeves. Ron

Does this truck have any type of fuel heater on it , heated by engine coolant?? Just a thought. Ron

Nice looking MH, good luck with it!!! Ron

Should be cool as stated above, back off until lose then re-torque each bolt in proper sequence. Always was nice to have someone help. He could back off the bolt till lose and you oil under bolt head and washer and torque to 220 lbs. then move onto the next one. Don't forget to reset valve clearances. Ron

That's one beautiful truck, terrific job!!! Have fun with it!!! Ron

I know Matlack was kinda partial to Mack green and I do believe Chemical Lehman favored the Mack blue!!! Ron

It's a Mack V-8, an END864. Ron

I don't think I've ever seen one of those, just used the old fashioned B&W QR-1 valves and Midlands that are similar. Ron

The check valve is already built into the quick release valve, that's how they work. Ron

I know this is a little late because you have the job all done and it looks great. I do have one suggestion, if you notice when you set the spring brakes they might seem to set a little slow this is because the air has to exhaust all the way up through the push-pull valve under the dash before they will set. If you replace the tee fitting on the emergency side with a Bendix QR-1 quick release valve or equivalent the parking brakes will set much quicker and you won't hear so much air leaking out from under the dash when you set them. Just a suggestion, this is the way i used to plumb them up. Ron

Tom The instructions for adjusting the valves is listed in the engine and transmission forum under the heading "adjusting valves on 676", the procedure for setting valves is the same for the ENDT675. John's advice sounds good to me. I used to take of the truck he has which has 1,700,000+ miles on it. Good luck with it!!----sounds like a great truck. Ron

John The Baldwin number for the air cleaner element in #267 is #PA2503 not #PA1503 as I told you on the phone I don't know why used to have problems getting those numbers confused!!1 When you change do not use the gasket on the cover of the housing that comes with the element put it together without it. trust me!! How are you? did you get to Macungie? I did but without my truck, still waiting for parts Hope to get it back together soon, I sure miss driving it!! Have a happy fourth!! Ron