39 Baby Mack

They have sound all of there own----that you just don't hear anymore. Gone are the days when you could just listen to the trucks and be able to tell what kind of motors they had in them. Cummins sounded like Cummins--Macks sounded like Macks--and Detroits sounded like Detroits, and Detroits did sound neat! I know I sound like an old fart but to me they all pretty much sound alike today. The times when could just listen and tell the difference are sadly gone forever!!! Ron

He beat me to it, he's right it's because it has a dynatard camshaft in it. With flat spots on the opposite sides of the exhaust lobes. They used these cams whether they had the dynatard engine brake or not. Looks really weird though when you see that much slop in the exhaust valve rockers doesn't it? Ron

To set the timing there should be marks on the vibration dampener. They start at 35 degrees and go down to 0 If you wanted to set the timing to 25 degrees you would bar engine over in normal rotation (clockwise looking from front of engine) until #1 was on compression stroke and then stop when pointer aligns with the 25 degree mark on the dampener.You would then break the ( 4 ) 3/8" bolts loose on the drive coupling, then with a 1-1/4" socket turn hub nut counter clockwise to full retard position---- then slowly turn hub nut clockwise to obtain port closing on the pump- when this is obtained torque 3/8'' bolts to 35 ft./lbs. The engine will then be timed to 25 degrees before top dead center. To flow time the pump can be fairly easy or not so easy depends a lot on whether it has an Ambac pump or a Robert Bosch pump??? Let me know Ron

They have to be adjusted individually in firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. Bar engine over in normal rotation- clockwise looking from front of engine. When #1 is coming up on compression stroke stop at #1- #6 top dead center mark on dampener and set valves for #1 cylinder intake .016" exhaust .024" After done with #1 bar engine clockwise to next mark which will be #2 -#5 (120 degrees from #1- #6 mark) and set valves for #5, then just keep on going through firing order1-5-3-6-2-4. If you're having trouble trying to figure out when #1 is on compression stroke watch the valve movement. When barring over engine watch the intake pushrod and rocker movement(the valve toward the rear of the cylinder) you will see it open and then close- right after you see it close bar engine up to the #1 T.D.C. mark and set valves for #1 and go from there. Hope this helps, Ron

A couple more pictures

Here are some pictures of the B-773 in Honey Brook, PA along with an experimental cabover Mack!!!! Wonder who did that to that poor Bulldog???

Looks great Ben! Not trying to tell you how to run your business, but would suggest you have both front springs rebuilt at the same time. Otherwise you could end up with a leaner. Ron

I agree 100% Ron

It's a B-773 with aB model cab I believe it has a 335 Cummins in it. Ron

Good luck lever sole-------- I have two left wing daughters and a half left wing wife(because of the daughters) not much room for common sense!!!! Ron

h67st #160 chassis #H67T 3071 if my memory serves me correctly. 205 H.P. ENDT673 Nine speed overdrive duplex transmission Spring parking brakes full fenders made changing rear springs a snap! worked on and drove this a time or two! Ron

F models love to rust. Jim Etters from Connelsville, PA once told me---------- "On a quiet night in the summertime, of in the distance, over the dull hum of the crickets if you listened close enough you could hear an F model Mack rusting away!!!!!" Ron

Leaford, There's a guy in Homer City, Pa. that has them and the end caps as well, not cheap $300.00 for new or $125.00 for good used. His name is C.D. Roser ph.(724)840-3800----website is www.kingofsalvage.com Ron

I didn't mind the girls, they had a tough time getting the banana peels around the corner of the trailer------- wouldn't have that problem with an R model!!!! Ron

Probably a broken wire or bad connection.

The plastic piece is the same as used in an F model truck, maybe even the same as used in early R models.

Mack part #301SQ47CP1 if I remember is the latest Mack kit with later heavy duty caps for the top bores. With this kit, I used to just use a bushing driver to install new bushings and needle bearings (top). As was said before seals go in with lip toward axle beam they seal water out not grease in. Never had to ream them as as the lower shell bushings were already pre- sized. When installing lower bushings make sure grease grooves run out to bottom of spindle to make sure thrust buttons get greased. Another trick I was taught years ago is how to set taper of pins in eye of axle. Making sure eye of axle is clean and dry with brakleen, insert pin up through spindle and axle then take bottle jack and jack up under pin to take weight of truck off other support so all weight is holding pin in axle eye, smack axle beam behind eye (inboard) from eye to set pin in axle eye. This takes the place of a lot of settling in when first put together and also insures a good set in the axle. Dutch fit top bore to help secure late style plug using stud and bearing mount lock tite. These late style caps are also threaded for a puller bolt so they can easily be removed if you ever have to do it again. Always raise vehicle off the ground when greasing Mack king pins.

Would be really cool with a Superliner pulling it!!!!

There was a block letter THERMODYNE nameplate used on F models but I wouldn't know where to find one.

Hi Mike We had F-719T1093 it's unit # was#189 built in 1967 and had an ENDT864 which had twin turbos on it. I always believed the horsepower to be 320. Was very prone to blowing head gaskets as the 864 had old sandwich style head gaskets(no fire rings) The Ed is coming along, making some improvements, will hopefully debut at Macungie. Say hello to your dad for me and am looking forward to seeing you both at Macungie.