lucerne tractor

Loved my Jake on the 6nz, never used the brakes, can't say much for the powerleash on the 05. I have to roll down the window to see if it's working,the brakes will be changed often I believe. Maybe they are better on the new Mack/Volvo engines. I sure do like the new Macks and what I have been hearing about them. Seing alot on the road lately, the new Petes and KW's are a nightmare of troubles. Mack CH mid roof forward axle is a pleasing eye full!!!

Not sure what model the trailer is so can't answer the question. On hydraulic detatch, the stinger that drops to the frame to hold up the gooseneck when unhooked should be supported by a piece of 1" thick steel across the rear end of the frame rails, from one rail to the other, about 27" wide by 16" deep by 1" thick, any thinner will bend. If it's a mechanical detatch it should have ramps bolted on the side of the truck frame to support the dropping and lifting of the trailer, most trailers have rollers that run down the ramps. To support the gooseneck when removed from the trailer a wood 4"x4" should be placed from frame rail to frame rail under the gooseneck frame on the ramps for support when removing it from the trailer. It sounds like this trailer might have arms that come down by air or hyraulics that set on the frame rails? There should be ramps to protect the truck frame.

What he said in the video. "Hell Ya!!"

Vinny, your post, even in bad taste ,has found some good in an odd way. It shows the class of collector, drivers,truck lovers on this board, top notch. Knowing you, nothing bad was meant by the post, maybe you hit "POST" before you read it over once or twice.

Tell her to haul ass, she'd have to make two trips!!!

thats how its done!!!!

Heavy duty truck, limited edition unit, 425 Cat with a 3 line heavy duty wet system, double frame truck. Fresh paint, come look you wont be disappointed.207-276-4034 it's in Maine not mine just looked interesting for the money. 12k obo

OK, don't have much to go by from your post, rear end gears, turbo boost, exhaust temp,do you have a computer on the dash to display problems when the lighning bolt comes on? Anyway. The charge air coolers are known to crack, look for black along the edge or anywere on it. Plug it and test it at 35 lbs. It should lose no more then 5 lbs in 30 seconds. No,sometimes you don't hear it when running. I was losing 35lbs in 5 seconds, I heard no difference when fixed but I felt it. Second, there should be a small changable screw on filter between the compessor and the vgt controll. This filter oil from the compressor air and keeps it out of the vgt control. Mine was completly removed, maybe because of the cost of the filters, $60.00 at Mack. The shop in NC found it or found lack of it is more like it. This send all kinds of crazy signals to the turbo when it has oil in it, my truck would lose power, fall on it's face, run great, run fine, run so bad I had to shut down and restart to clear the computer. They installed a new filter system and a new vgt controll. Run your hand around the seam were the turbo bolts to the manifold,if you feel any air pushing your hand away, the square metal gasket is blown out and your not getting full boost. Are you changing the centrifical oil filter? It's in the upside down looking round top, black plastic thing you pour the oil in, it has a bolt down the middle. You should hear it spinning when you shut down.If it is not it is clogged and the oil is bypassing, the flow is restricted and the oil cools the engine too. There is an update on the thermostats, there are two and adding a bypass is part of the update I believe. Check that out for cooling. When all above is working, have the ecm updated by having the shop call Mack and Mack send them the updates, including the marshmellow pedal update 12B.Hope this helps.

Antisipation is the best part .

Looking through uncle henrys online and found these, might be worth a call. Benedicta, Maine 207-365-4807

More about the truck, year,engine size? Whats the coolant problem, leaking, losing it where?