David

Bobtailing on wet roads is always a recipe for disaster. Air ride suspension won't change that. You may have tires out of round or balance. What is your VIN? You must have one of the last MH's built.

Look at this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-Single...sspagenameZWDVW Keep in mind the R frame is 33" wide your MH is 34". Is your cab air ride working ok? I have a MH612 and it rides better than my pickup.

Looking at these pictures got me wondering; Just how well most of us would do shifting with our left hand?

I'm going to put this on the back of all my trucks..... "CHANGE" You wanted it. You voted for it. You live with it. Just like Clinton, a year from now, no one will admit they voted for this guy.

We have the switches, lights, and seals in two cabs we are parting out. 919-932-3344

Add an aftercooler. It will give you about 50 hp.

That's how all of mine are built. The oldest is a '73.

There have been some of these woodgrain pieces on Ebay recently. Search "Mack dash" on Ebay motors.

Most trucks have 3 tanks. The wet tank, the primary, and the secondary. That's why you have 2 gauges (or 2 dials on one guage) Some times 2 tanks are combined and it may look like only one.

Cut a hole in it big enough to crawl through. Go inside. Clean it up and give it a coat of paint.

My RW, RWL, & RWS Collison repair book shows: Vertical Exhaust Elbow(RWL/RWS) 4ME 29318P22 (std) 4ME 29318P23 (chrome) Dual Vertical Exhaust Rear Pipe (RW) 4ME 4775M RH (painted) 4ME 4775M2 RH (bright finish) 4ME 32927M LH (painted) 4ME 32927M2 RH (bright finish) Don't ya just love these new generation parts guys that can't find anything without the VIN? I ask our local guy for a R model clutch cable (that hasn't changed in 40 years) and he had to have the VIN. I made up "R686ST12345" and left with my cable 10 minutes later.

The numbers are the same for 10x20's as 1100x22.5. Both are 498 rev's per mile. The recomended max for your new driveshaft is 60" in length.

Again assuming 1100x22.5, 70 MPH = 1700 RPM.

With 1100x22.5: 2100 RPM in direct = 51.6 MPH 1254 RPM in overdrive = 51.6 MPH 2100 RPM in overdrive =86.4 MPH It takes forever to shift from direct to overdrive. By the time you get it in gear if your speed drops to 45 MPH you'll hit the fuel at 1100 RPM's. If your going up hill, keep it in direct!

Has anyone ever driven a truck with this configeration?

How do you shift an auxillary that is behind an auto? Is it the same as shifting any manual without using the clutch?

I think that's what I posted in May 2008.

We have a Milwaukee and really like it. You can spec them with different bases, power units and chucks. Check into the hole hawg bits. They cut ring out instead of removing all the material within the hole. A lot less work for the bit and much faster. We speced a 3/4" chuck and use the adapter for the bits. That way you can still use a conventional bit. They also make a howg wash solution for cooling that's cheaper and less of a mess than oil. After we bought ours we found a local welding supply shop that sells another brand (don't recall the name) of the same type of bits. They won't work in the Milwaukee, only in their drills. Their drills are smaller, easier to use and the shop can resharpen the bits. What ever kind you buy remember to always hook the safety chain. Then when someone kicks your power cord loose, you don't hear your $1500 drill bouncing off the floor.

Think like a pig. "Don't s**t where you eat"

Does this truck have low oil presure?

Here's one... http://books.google.com/books?id=vvDoycASB...6&ct=result

Did you notice it's a rental?

With low range in the transfer case you don't need to worry about the reduction ratios of the transmission.

Rob, Here's another one for ya. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MACK-1974-R...1QQcmdZViewItem

This really is a good group on this forum. Hope you all have a happy and prosperous new year.