Mystery Part

[Rob]

Herb,

I was just wondering if the small air governor on the firewall had provision to clean out, maybe where the allen head screws were located? I did not bother it, because for $10.00 bucks they can be bought reasonable. But from the shutter filter, which mine is located on the firewall beside the air governor, found the long airline defective with substantial size hole leading to the shutterstat. So last night both air hoses came off and i'm ready to buy new ones. I also took off the shutter cylinder and have cleaned it up, got off all paint, dirt and am ready to repaint it back to original color and leave the other parts their natural finish with a coat of clear over the top. I will assemble tonight when I get off from work here. And also check it for leaks by submerging it into a bath of water with 90 lbs. of air following. I'll keep ya'll informed and hopefully take some pictures along the way. Whats going to be funny to me is, the rest of the engine bay is old and grimmy looking and will have one part that will look new, which will be the shutter cylinder unit.

Thanks for the replys guys!

mike

Put new packings in the shutter cylinder while it is off the truck. If it has not been used in a while it will leak and then you get to screw up your new paint job to fix it.

Rob

[Freightrain]

That cylinder is very easy to dismantle. I pulled mine apart and cleaned the guts. The leather(?) packing was fairly nice still and to this day works fine.

[Mike]

This morning while on the way to the post office, I decided to stop by Industrial Gasket & Rubber Co. and get a quote as to how much for new hoses. For two hoses the cost thus far is $51.00 for one 4ft. with brass fittings and one, 1ft. with brass fittings to look like the original cloth on the outside coating. They said that they'll have them ready for pickup tommorrow evening........when all of this is put back on and working, what makes the shutters open back up if temperature does not reach proper temp. after engine is shutdown ?

mike

[Rob]

This morning while on the way to the post office, I decided to stop by Industrial Gasket & Rubber Co. and get a quote as to how much for new hoses. For two hoses the cost thus far is $51.00 for one 4ft. with brass fittings and one, 1ft. with brass fittings to look like the original cloth on the outside coating. They said that they'll have them ready for pickup tommorrow evening........when all of this is put back on and working, what makes the shutters open back up if temperature does not reach proper temp. after engine is shutdown ?

mike

If your shutterstat is working and the engine temp does not climb to normal, the shutters will remain closed. A combination of exhaust of air pressure, and spring tension return the shutters to their default position which is open. The shutterstat dumps the air pressure that closes the shutters.

Rob

[Mike]

If your shutterstat is working and the engine temp does not climb to normal, the shutters will remain closed. A combination of exhaust of air pressure, and spring tension return the shutters to their default position which is open. The shutterstat dumps the air pressure that closes the shutters.

Rob

Thanks Rob,

Just knowing that it takes a dump like me makes me feel better.

I have not looked into the thermostat housing yet. That is another small task for me to get into at another time. My garage is not finished yet, but am waiting for garage doors to be installed. So i'm not tring to get too involved in the Mack that will require being down for several days. Might have to move it to another location on the ranch.

mike

[Mike]

Thanks Rob,

Just knowing that it takes a dump like me makes me feel better.

I have not looked into the thermostat housing yet. That is another small task for me to get into at another time. My garage is not finished yet, but am waiting for garage doors to be installed. So i'm not tring to get too involved in the Mack that will require being down for several days. Might have to move it to another location on the ranch.

mike

Sorry Rob for not answering your question about my truck. I honestly don't know what the truck has been doing all of these years. The former owner said that they had pulled a dozier and i'm sure that would include most other less heavy equipment such as a backhoe etc.etc. It has a 2" ball on the back brace at the tailights so they pulled maybe a small stock trailer around the farm, I recall him saying. All that the Mack Museum could show was that it was built in Allentown, PA on 4/11/62 and was completed 4/16/62. The truck was then transported to Neely Coble Mack Dealer in Nashville, TN from that point on I have no clue. I did have a conversation with Mr. Coble and he told me that all of that info was nolonger available.The previous owner does not answer my calls any longer. I've only called him 2 times to ask those kinds of questions. I fill that he was glad to get the money and the monkey off of his back. Thats ok because I got the truck that was rite for me and I like a challenge and I feel the price was right also for me. I'm also blessed to have people that i've seen on this site that care about each other enough to give of themselves their time and knowledge, such as yourself and I appreciate each of YOU!!! I think that is why they are called TRUCKERS and they formed a Union to help each other in times of need.

mike

[Mike]

I called today to see if my new hoses were shipped and the reply was wait an hour and they would be ready for pickup. I waited more than an hour and decided to pick them up during my lunch break. As I came in to check on them they were not ready yet. The brass ends needed to be installed. So I waited about 30 mins...... not a happy camper. As I waited they were finally brought out and lo and behold I saw " MADE IN MEXICO " on the felt coating. You can guess how I felt. I told them the truck would probably not run again since that was the only foreign parts the truck had ever seen. Not only that ordeal but, they had first quoted me $51.08 total. I was ready to break for the door, when they said the cost was going to be another 40 dollars. Which would make it over $90.00 dollars. I told them I was only going to pay the 51 dollars or else no hoses. So the manager got busy and came up with the original price. But I got back to work and marked out the place the hoses were made. I did notice the PSI was 3,000..... kind of an over kill would'n you say the same? I'll be finding me another place to buy gaskets and hoses from now on.

mike

[Freightrain]

$90........ouch. Sorry you had to deal with the idiots.

Does your old hoses have replaceable ends on them? Sometimes you can unscrew them and reuse the ends, depending on the type you have. Then you just have to buy the hose.

BTW, my shutters kinda stick when you first air up the truck. Sometimes have to go "smack" them get them to close, then they work fine the rest of the day. Seems there is a catch in the mechanism of the shutter that it gets caught on when fully opened with no air pressure. Once there is air, it doesn't get to that point anymore.

[Mike]

$90........ouch. Sorry you had to deal with the idiots.

Does your old hoses have replaceable ends on them? Sometimes you can unscrew them and reuse the ends, depending on the type you have. Then you just have to buy the hose.

BTW, my shutters kinda stick when you first air up the truck. Sometimes have to go "smack" them get them to close, then they work fine the rest of the day. Seems there is a catch in the mechanism of the shutter that it gets caught on when fully opened with no air pressure. Once there is air, it doesn't get to that point anymore.

Larry,

Have not touched the truck all day. Been down to my mother's house to get her TV fixed. The painters came in and dismantled every wire and cable acouple of weeks ago and just left it that way. I'll get the new reconditioned air filter for shutters and the new reconditioned shutter cylinder installed tomorrow with my new " MADE IN MEXICO " hoses installed. I believe that I should not test them because the air compressor has not been exchanged yet. I feel that I would be putting bad air and oil into the new reconditioned parts. So i'll close off the system until the compressor is fixed.

mike

[Mike]

Larry,

Have not touched the truck all day. Been down to my mother's house to get her TV fixed. The painters came in and dismantled every wire and cable acouple of weeks ago and just left it that way. I'll get the new reconditioned air filter for shutters and the new reconditioned shutter cylinder installed tomorrow with my new " MADE IN MEXICO " hoses installed. I believe that I should not test them because the air compressor has not been exchanged yet. I feel that I would be putting bad air and oil into the new reconditioned parts. So i'll close off the system until the compressor is fixed.

mike

Today all components have been installed and ready to be tested. I left the shorter hose off one end so as to check the shutterstat. I'm sure it needs servicing also. I opened the window and looked inside but will take it off and clean the valve this week. I also found a small leak in the air tank and will have to weld it.I'll get pictures soon so I can brag on myself.

mike

[Mike]

Today all components have been installed and ready to be tested. I left the shorter hose off one end so as to check the shutterstat. I'm sure it needs servicing also. I opened the window and looked inside but will take it off and clean the valve this week. I also found a small leak in the air tank and will have to weld it.I'll get pictures soon so I can brag on myself.

mike

Question, has anyone used the getme by method of putting a sheet metal screw in a leaky airtank, seal it with JB Weld or etc. and have any luck with that?

Thanks

mike

[Rob]

Question, has anyone used the getme by method of putting a sheet metal screw in a leaky airtank, seal it with JB Weld or etc. and have any luck with that?

Thanks

mike

You could do that but I wouldn't. Think about the area that is leaking; The metal is thinning due to decomposition and this is where the leak started. You could open the hole up a little larger and install the screw and sealer and it may hold, but if it doesn't, you have no brakes, and are stranded, usually at a less than opportune timeframe.

I'm not accustomed to half assing any type of repair so may be just a bit biased.

Rob

[Mike]

You could do that but I wouldn't. Think about the area that is leaking; The metal is thinning due to decomposition and this is where the leak started. You could open the hole up a little larger and install the screw and sealer and it may hold, but if it doesn't, you have no brakes, and are stranded, usually at a less than opportune timeframe.

I'm not accustomed to half assing any type of repair so may be just a bit biased.

Rob

Rob,

I really did not like the idea either. The UPS driver (no offense bumblebee) that delivers to our building suggested that. I just shook my head as he was moving on. I'll either weld it or get a new tank. Knowing me i'll most likely get a new tank. They are not that expensive. And i'll not be concerned about the air setup again.

Thanks Rob

mike

[Rob]

Rob,

I really did not like the idea either. The UPS driver (no offense bumblebee) that delivers to our building suggested that. I just shook my head as he was moving on. I'll either weld it or get a new tank. Knowing me i'll most likely get a new tank. They are not that expensive. And i'll not be concerned about the air setup again.

Thanks Rob

mike

I meant no offense in my reply and hope none was taken. I do not compromise on safety issues with either replacement, or repair. Too much at stake for guesswork in these areas. One has to be cognizant of this "sue happy" society we exitst in.

I've seen several tanks lap welded with a patch over the top of weakened areas. I suppose that is alright and has worked but I still would rather replace the defective unit if ithe choice were mine.

Piece of mind goes a long way sometimes.

Rob

[Mike]

I meant no offense in my reply and hope none was taken. I do not compromise on safety issues with either replacement, or repair. Too much at stake for guesswork in these areas. One has to be cognizant of this "sue happy" society we exitst in.

I've seen several tanks lap welded with a patch over the top of weakened areas. I suppose that is alright and has worked but I still would rather replace the defective unit if ithe choice were mine.

Piece of mind goes a long way sometimes.

Rob

Rob,

I read no offense in any of your replies since i've been a member on the BMT site. I'm glad someone cares enough to help me when needed. Thanks again! I've been toying with the needs that I have, for the air lines, tank location, valves and just need to do many things that I can live with. I want to put Maxi Brakes on but have not figured out how to run the lines yet. I have enough room for the Maxi's but don't know if the Maxi studs will mate to my original mounts? I wanted to keep the original cooper lines running all over the truck but may have to compromise.

mike

[Rob]

Rob,

I read no offense in any of your replies since i've been a member on the BMT site. I'm glad someone cares enough to help me when needed. Thanks again! I've been toying with the needs that I have, for the air lines, tank location, valves and just need to do many things that I can live with. I want to put Maxi Brakes on but have not figured out how to run the lines yet. I have enough room for the Maxi's but don't know if the Maxi studs will mate to my original mounts? I wanted to keep the original cooper lines running all over the truck but may have to compromise.

mike

If you have the 34,000, or 38,000 pound rears with either no, or a stamped steel backing plate for the brake drums; A type 24/24 spring brake chamber will bolt right up using all the existing hardware. Assuming you have this setup, your current brake chambers, (rotochambers) will be replaced with the much more readily available standard brake chambers. The bolt pattern is standard for those sizes. You will need to plumb in a parking brake valve and the associated hoses to supply, and release the air needed to operate the parking brake feature but that is not hard. An easy to follow diagram is located on the Bendix website. I don't know off the top of my head where it is but starting at bendix.com you can find it.

Rob

[Mike]

If you have the 34,000, or 38,000 pound rears with either no, or a stamped steel backing plate for the brake drums; A type 24/24 spring brake chamber will bolt right up using all the existing hardware. Assuming you have this setup, your current brake chambers, (rotochambers) will be replaced with the much more readily available standard brake chambers. The bolt pattern is standard for those sizes. You will need to plumb in a parking brake valve and the associated hoses to supply, and release the air needed to operate the parking brake feature but that is not hard. An easy to follow diagram is located on the Bendix website. I don't know off the top of my head where it is but starting at bendix.com you can find it.

Rob

I looked at a 30/30 chamber at NAPA and saw a place for two lines on each chamber and became confused. Because the original air valves on my truck only have two ports instead of four. I'm sure it's easy after a person does it one time. Question, will the airtank need to stay full while parked or does the chambers only stay full while parked overnight? I'll go back and check the bendix site again. I've said it before it is a great place to visit.

THX

mike

[Rob]

I looked at a 30/30 chamber at NAPA and saw a place for two lines on each chamber and became confused. Because the original air valves on my truck only have two ports instead of four. I'm sure it's easy after a person does it one time. Question, will the airtank need to stay full while parked or does the chambers only stay full while parked overnight? I'll go back and check the bendix site again. I've said it before it is a great place to visit.

THX

mike

A 30/30 is physically too large to fit in the space on B series rear tandem axles. If they have been swapped to another later style, or modified, they would be the ones to go with. The Rotochambers are a type "20" originally and the 24/24 is a larger diaphragm area from the start.

With spring brakes it requires air pressure to release the brakes by compressing the spring that holds the shoes applied to the drums. In operation you push, pull, slide, flip, (depends on type of valve) to apply air to the parking brake side. The service brake side does not have air applied until you press on the brake pedal. You then apply air pressure against a second diaphragm to apply the service brakes.

The Bendix site is good at showing how to lay out the air lines. The tank reservoir should hold the air pressure unless there is a leak someplace.

Rob

[Mike]

A 30/30 is physically too large to fit in the space on B series rear tandem axles. If they have been swapped to another later style, or modified, they would be the ones to go with. The Rotochambers are a type "20" originally and the 24/24 is a larger diaphragm area from the start.

With spring brakes it requires air pressure to release the brakes by compressing the spring that holds the shoes applied to the drums. In operation you push, pull, slide, flip, (depends on type of valve) to apply air to the parking brake side. The service brake side does not have air applied until you press on the brake pedal. You then apply air pressure against a second diaphragm to apply the service brakes.

The Bendix site is good at showing how to lay out the air lines. The tank reservoir should hold the air pressure unless there is a leak someplace.

Rob

Ok Rob,

I'll be glad an take the silly award for asking the most questions about the B brakes. After looking through the many forums answers to this same questions, we have a dictionary of questions and replys to this thread.

mike