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Changed oil for the first time in the 673P and used 1 gal. of Marvel Mystery oil to the rest of 7 gal. of SAE 30 Rotella T a total of 8 gal. of oil. or 20 quarts. I figured the engine may need a cleaning out. I have ran the engine probably for 5 or 6 minutes so far. I am now getting a vibration at idle in the engine and wondered if the oil should be changed back to full SAE 30 at this time and get rid of the Marvel Mystery oil? Replies are welcome.

Thanks

mike :mack1:

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Hi Mike.

My opinion is that a good name brand oil that meets all the specs required for a particular engine already has all the necessary detergents & additives in it, and nothing else need be added.

I always ran Shell Rotella 15w40 in my Mack engines, never added anything.

Shell Rotella is the best diesel engine oil out there, in my opinion.

At the company where I work now we use Citgo 15w40 in all the diesel engines, we don't ever add anything to that either.

Actually, adding things to an engine oil indiscriminately can possibly result in "chemical warfare" between the ingredients of the engine oil and the ingredients of the additive.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Hi Mike.

My opinion is that a good name brand oil that meets all the specs required for a particular engine already has all the necessary detergents & additives in it, and nothing else need be added.

I always ran Shell Rotella 15w40 in my Mack engines, never added anything.

Shell Rotella is the best diesel engine oil out there, in my opinion.

At the company where I work now we use Citgo 15w40 in all the diesel engines, we don't ever add anything to that either.

Actually, adding things to an engine oil indiscriminately can possibly result in "chemical warfare" between the ingredients of the engine oil and the ingredients of the additive.

.

I figured it needed a good cleaning that is why I added that other oil. I'm wondering if it washed the bearings a little too much in that 5 mins.causing the vibration.

mike

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I figured it needed a good cleaning that is why I added that other oil. I'm wondering if it washed the bearings a little too much in that 5 mins.causing the vibration.

mike

Whats this "mystery oil" supposed to do? Wash out sludge or carbon build up?

I've recently started adding Lucas every oil change based on knowledge from another owner/operater who used it religously. This guy amazingly got 1.6 million miles out of a 3406 Cat before his first rebuid! I was never much of a believer in oil additives either but Lucas seems like decent stuff. They claim it would work great for motors that sit a while between starts too.

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Whats this "mystery oil" supposed to do? Wash out sludge or carbon build up?

I've recently started adding Lucas every oil change based on knowledge from another owner/operater who used it religously. This guy amazingly got 1.6 million miles out of a 3406 Cat before his first rebuid! I was never much of a believer in oil additives either but Lucas seems like decent stuff. They claim it would work great for motors that sit a while between starts too.

Thats exactly what Marvel Mystery Oil is supposed to do, keep the engine clean inside. You would think that as many detergents that is in your oils today it would keep things from gumming up. Many people use the newer Lucas Products today and probably get the same results. My engine has not been allowed to get hot enough to keep clean for along time, so that is why I used the cleaner. This Marvel Mystery oil will be drained and i'll be putting in the SAE 30 weight. My oil supplier said yesterday that he sold about 85% of the 15w40 oil and 15% SAE 30 oil. I've used the Marvel Mystery oil for along time and got good results from it but, you can add too much probably like I did, cause it is very thin stuff.

mike

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Hmmmmm, wonder what that vibration is?

I run Rotella 15w40 in mine. I've never added any additives, even though likely mine did alot of idling previous to my owning it. I've had the valve covers off and it's a bit dirty, but I don't consider it terrible for a 50yr old diesel.

Wonder if it's a miss more then a mechanical vibration? Maybe something got loose in the injection pump from the MMO?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Hmmmmm, wonder what that vibration is?

I run Rotella 15w40 in mine. I've never added any additives, even though likely mine did alot of idling previous to my owning it. I've had the valve covers off and it's a bit dirty, but I don't consider it terrible for a 50yr old diesel.

Wonder if it's a miss more then a mechanical vibration? Maybe something got loose in the injection pump from the MMO?

Don't know about the miss yet.....runs rough at idle at 500rpm but I need to fill the tanks since it's getting colder here. Have not put a fuel filter on this truck since too many things have got in the way. My garage is not finished yet either. I changed oil yesterday with SAE 30 Rotella T.... loosened the nut...LOL..this time...LOL...on the filter. The oil was plenty black for just 5 minutes running time on new Mystery Oil. Took out the Mystery Oil and now has just SAE 30. Larry, I will go to Rotella T 15W40 after I do a rebuild, but for now i'll stay with this. I'm getting 35 lbs pressure now where I was only getting 15 lbs with whatever was in it when I bought it.

mike

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Yup, mine goes instant black after an oil change. Mine has about 15# idle hot, 50#+ hot running down the road at speed.

After the garage gets inside insulation, electricity and gutters then driveway will get concrete i'll start taking the B apart for a restoration. I sure could use an extra arm in the matter. When I talk about work, people start having bad backs etc. etc. At this time I have taken the shutter assembly off and have freed the mechanism arms so it now works, but I want to take the black paint off and put it back to the natural finish. I wonder if sending the shutters to a radiator shop would soak the unit and get all the loose matter off is a good idea?

mike B)

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Mike,

I would absolutely not dip the shutters in a radiator tank. That stuff is pretty volatile!

The shutters are made of numerous fragile pieces, and the connections between the shutter blade and the operating ends are particularly fragile. There may be different metals as well which the radiator acid could raise havoc with.

Just be careful and clean and sand the shutters using only elbow grease. Or you might try a bead or media blaster while keeping a real close eye on any warping of the blades. Might even consider a baking soda blaster, although I have never tried one myself.

If you do use a stripper - make sure you get a good looking one! Do not hire Other Dog - he might claim to be a stripper - but the mental image is unbearable.

Seriously, if you use a stripper, try it first on the backside of the shutter housing, then maybe a little on the blades, and be really careful about getting all of the stripper material rinsed off.

Shutters might be the most fragile part on the whole truck! Good replacement sets are hard to find and really expensive. Let that be your motivation.

Good luck,

Paul Van Scott

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Mike,

I would absolutely not dip the shutters in a radiator tank. That stuff is pretty volatile!

The shutters are made of numerous fragile pieces, and the connections between the shutter blade and the operating ends are particularly fragile. There may be different metals as well which the radiator acid could raise havoc with.

Just be careful and clean and sand the shutters using only elbow grease. Or you might try a bead or media blaster while keeping a real close eye on any warping of the blades. Might even consider a baking soda blaster, although I have never tried one myself.

If you do use a stripper - make sure you get a good looking one! Do not hire Other Dog - he might claim to be a stripper - but the mental image is unbearable.

Seriously, if you use a stripper, try it first on the backside of the shutter housing, then maybe a little on the blades, and be really careful about getting all of the stripper material rinsed off.

Shutters might be the most fragile part on the whole truck! Good replacement sets are hard to find and really expensive. Let that be your motivation.

Good luck,

Paul Van Scott

Hi Paul,

Mighty good to hear from you. I'll take that as good advise about the shutters. I've never used a soda blaster but looks like fun. Anything to ease the job and cut time so I can concentrate on the stripper....... :lol: my imagination cannot run that wild. That has to be the wildest thought. :lol: I would guess the air pressure would be the troubleing factor with the shutters, having too much can be a problem and not having enough can cause the job to not get done blasting the unit. Shutters do look pretty fragile i've noticed. It'll be done right if I have anything to do with it. Cost doesn't bother me as much as availability of parts for these trucks do. I guess Tom is going to pay a visit for Halloween to you know where.

mike

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When I polished my shutters a few winters back, I just used store bought paint stripper and used it sparingly. Just enough to take the old paint off, but not eat into anything. Then some fine sandpaper and then Wenol or polish. They aren't "mirrors", but the look pretty good for a rusty ol truck.

SDC10309.jpg

Jan28_0004.jpg

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Mike,

If you do use a stripper - make sure you get a good looking one! Do not hire Other Dog - he might claim to be a stripper - but the mental image is unbearable.

Good luck,

Paul Van Scott

I'm sure Mike wouldn't consider me for that job- i'm not from Oklahoma!

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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I'm sure Mike wouldn't consider me for that job- i'm not from Oklahoma!

Man!!!!!......i'm always wrong!!!!!!......I thought that was Rob in another one of his outfits from OKLAHOMA.....instead it was Tom all along. I'm going to start drinkin if I don't start having better luck.

mike

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Larry, I'll have to say the truck looks GREAT!!!!.... I like the larger bumper but i'm fighting the thoughts of changing anything thats not OEM. I've been wanting to go with a Texas style, rolled edges, center step and maybe lights along the bottom cause i'm not so fond of a black bumper for this truck. I'll probably figure it out when I get further along when time for the restore. Thanks for the reply and photo, it gives me ideas to hold on to.

For some reason the shutter cylinder does not want to work. It is binding where I installed neoprene washers inside where the felt washer is in front on the brass shaft. If I only go with the felt washer then air wants to escape around it. Back to the drawing board. I know it's not rocket science.

mike

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Nice.....if only it was a tandem with room for a bunk!! I'm working on it!

That picture sure does do the old dawg A LOT of justice LOL!!

the rest of the story-

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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I did the bumper because originally it had a HUGE step/push bumper on it from the towing company. If I wanted to keep it in the "Brutus" mode, I could have left it on. I wanted it a bit "cooler attitude" so a buddy had that made for me. Atlanta stampings is the company he works at and he told me to draw something up and give it to him. That is what I came up with. Big enough, but not obnoxious.

My first long road trip to Columbus for Expo in 2002.

Expo2002036.jpg

All original except for 5" stack on it. It was wayyyy too loud inside the cab, so I put 4" back on it. It resonated really bad, as you know how them big pipe trucks really rumble when you hear them. 2 hrs and I was fit to be tied!!!

Seven years later:

Aug28_0002.jpg

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Actually they were on one of the front ends I got when I bought the truck. I had a bunch of sheetmetal and before I sold the stuff I took them off and put them on my truck. Didn't think I would like them at first, but now I don't think I would like it without them LOL!! Just one of those little touches I guess?

I used to see them in Whitneys too. Used to see them "jeweled" with a colored jem sticking through and then it would glow that color. Haven't seem them in years now.

With a small piece of stainless you could easily make them. Roll them then bent a small tab to stick behind the headlight bezel to hold them on(like mine). Very simple.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 1 year later...

RUNNING A COUPLE OFF R MODELS WITH E63504V WORKING DAILY RUNNING AT FULL WEIGHTS HERE IN AUSTRALIA 42500kg ON BOTH FLAT HIGHWAY AND HILLY PULLS INTO CITY TRAFFIC I DO A FULL FILTER CHANGE AND OIL CHANGE ON THESE MOTORS EVERY 10000km RUN CASTROL RX SUPER OIL BUT WAS HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE OIL TURNING BLACK SHORTLY AFTER SERVICE I THEN GOT ONTO A PRODUCT CALLED FLUSHING OIL CONCENTRATE MADE BY A COMPANY IN AUSTRALIA ( www.costeffective.com.au )

BASILLY YOU RUN THIS THRU MOTOR JUST BEFORE OIL CHANGE AND IT CLEANS OUT ALL THE SLUDGE AROUND MOTOR UNBELEIVABLE WHAT COMES OUT OF A WELL MANTAINED MOTOR AFTER THIS TREATMENT I FOUND THE FOLLOWING ENGINE TEMPS DECREASED , OIL PRESSURE INCREASED , FUEL MILAGE IMPROVED , OIL STAYED CLEAR AS NEW UP TILL 7000km AND ONLY A SLIGHT DISCOLOURATION AT CHANGE TIME

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I use to run a gallon or Marvel in each tank every few weeks. With the Ulsd. Also run a gallon in the crank case when We did the inframe to help it break in. Been running Marvel in my gen every4th or 5th tank of fuel. Mind you it is mounted on the back of my truck and runs every night and all weekend 24 hours.

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