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hey guys,

i know that because my E-6 350 has a mechanical pump i can probable squeeze a little more power out of it. so, i am wondering how i go about this? i am aware that this is no hot rod, but i would like a little more power so i can keep up with some of our newer trucks. if anyone here has done such a mondification i would appreciate some details and results. i know runaways can be an issue so id like to avoid this. of course i understand that every truck will be different, but a little push in the right the direction would be great so that i can fine tune it to where it works for me. once again, im not looking for a significant power increase, just a little more...thanks

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is 375 hp, a 25 hp increase, realistic? or would it dangerous for the engine? is it possible?

I feel that an E6-350 is at the upper limit of horsepower torque output from a reliability standpoint. Sure they will crank up more, but the lower end is not strong enough to take it long term in my opinion.

If you go into the governor housing on the rear of the pump and adjust the rack travel, you will alter fuel settings to where the engine will make more power by opening the injection amount, and duration of injection timing. This extra fuel will need more air and without a turbo upgrade will create more smoke at low rpm due to unburned fuel. This of course translates to more exhaust heat and more power until a point of melting parts, or mechanical failure occurrs. These are broad scenarios and most times do not apply to an owner operated truck.

If you have an easy foot a 10% increase in fuel delivery should not be too detrimental in operation, but much further than that I wouldn't do on that engine.

From what I've seen it is the heavy foot off idle with a heavy loaded trailer behind that breaks crankshafts, and destroys the line honing of the engine block.

Sorry to be so bleak.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I feel that an E6-350 is at the upper limit of horsepower torque output from a reliability standpoint. Sure they will crank up more, but the lower end is not strong enough to take it long term in my opinion.

If you go into the governor housing on the rear of the pump and adjust the rack travel, you will alter fuel settings to where the engine will make more power by opening the injection amount, and duration of injection timing. This extra fuel will need more air and without a turbo upgrade will create more smoke at low rpm due to unburned fuel. This of course translates to more exhaust heat and more power until a point of melting parts, or mechanical failure occurrs. These are broad scenarios and most times do not apply to an owner operated truck.

If you have an easy foot a 10% increase in fuel delivery should not be too detrimental in operation, but much further than that I wouldn't do on that engine.

From what I've seen it is the heavy foot off idle with a heavy loaded trailer behind that breaks crankshafts, and destroys the line honing of the engine block.

Sorry to be so bleak.

Rob

Yup, that's pretty much the same bottom end on those engines as the old 673 170 HP models, with the exception of those main bearing cap braces that were added once the 285 HP mark was reached. Connecting rods and wrist pins are much beefier though.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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hey guys,

i know that because my E-6 350 has a mechanical pump i can probable squeeze a little more power out of it. so, i am wondering how i go about this? i am aware that this is no hot rod, but i would like a little more power so i can keep up with some of our newer trucks. if anyone here has done such a mondification i would appreciate some details and results. i know runaways can be an issue so id like to avoid this. of course i understand that every truck will be different, but a little push in the right the direction would be great so that i can fine tune it to where it works for me. once again, im not looking for a significant power increase, just a little more...thanks

Try disconecting the puff limiter, did that on a 90 CH E6-350 it helped but smoked alot more.
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Try disconecting the puff limiter, did that on a 90 CH E6-350 it helped but smoked alot more.

depending which pump he has that will only give you smoke on initial accelation with the feeling of quicker boost, however you will gain no top end power. I agree the bottum end of the motors are reliable up to 350hp, have i turned m e-6's up.... you bet!! I've changed the grind on the torque plate in the bosch p7100 pumps and they lit up like a wild cat. however i've got a melted piston sitting on my shop bench and a couple of locked up engines..... tuner beware..... melted piston was bad injector and stupid operator. locked up motors were also dumb operators.. to many rrrrr's down a hill.... we had an r model with a 300 e-6 we turned up pulled grain hopper with some pretty big loads I would say were pushing 400hp with it never seen the pyro exceed 1000, even got a coplement once from a pete owner wondering what we had under the hood "he said he couldn't keep up with us with his 400 cat...." but I still wouldn't recomend it.....

Don't leave you much advice with this post..... If it was an e-7 I would say go crazy but that little e-6 is happy right their.

post-1247-12607081659115_thumb.jpg right on top is a cover underneath is a plate with 2 screws loosen the screws slide the plate forward towards the front of the motor tighten the screws put your cover back on. Good luck (I have a few used pistons if you need them)...... :lol::SMOKIE-LFT: :SMOKIE-LFT:

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A 237 pump should be set at 2310 RPM (no load) from the factory, 2100 RPM under full load.

Are you sure your throttle linkage is pulling the pump all the way open when the pedal is floored?

.

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"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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yup... truck came from calif... i think the last users set it for 57-58 mph, didnt want there drivers getting speeding tickets...lol

i changed it from a 9sp direct(rt11509) to 13sp , added rto12513 back half.. now does65.. but always want more

Edited by peterj
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depending which pump he has that will only give you smoke on initial accelation with the feeling of quicker boost, however you will gain no top end power. I agree the bottum end of the motors are reliable up to 350hp, have i turned m e-6's up.... you bet!! I've changed the grind on the torque plate in the bosch p7100 pumps and they lit up like a wild cat. however i've got a melted piston sitting on my shop bench and a couple of locked up engines..... tuner beware..... melted piston was bad injector and stupid operator. locked up motors were also dumb operators.. to many rrrrr's down a hill.... we had an r model with a 300 e-6 we turned up pulled grain hopper with some pretty big loads I would say were pushing 400hp with it never seen the pyro exceed 1000, even got a coplement once from a pete owner wondering what we had under the hood "he said he couldn't keep up with us with his 400 cat...." but I still wouldn't recomend it.....

Don't leave you much advice with this post..... If it was an e-7 I would say go crazy but that little e-6 is happy right their.

post-1247-12607081659115_thumb.jpg right on top is a cover underneath is a plate with 2 screws loosen the screws slide the plate forward towards the front of the motor tighten the screws put your cover back on. Good luck (I have a few used pistons if you need them)...... :lol::SMOKIE-LFT: :SMOKIE-LFT:

thanks for the info

on that e6 300 that you turned up, did you upgrade the turbo as well? if so, what did you use?

my e6 has the american bosch, is that what your picture shows? it doesnt look too familiar to me...

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thanks for the info

on that e6 300 that you turned up, did you upgrade the turbo as well? if so, what did you use?

my e6 has the american bosch, is that what your picture shows? it doesnt look too familiar to me...

that particular truck also had the american bosch, we switched the pump out to the robert bosch (which is in the picture) only because the american bosch was limping on one cylinder and i was too cheap to fix it but had the robert bosch lying in the shop....

I got to know the american bosch on a customers truck after my switheroo... I kinda prefer the american bosch because I think its a "snappier" pump and if you have an engine brake it is controlled in the pump which makes jake shifting pretty nice (another NO No). same theory with the american bosch pump though take top cover off and slide adjuster towards front of engine.. and no we did not change the turbo. you have to watch your pyro if you have one.

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maxville

i have a 237 with the robert bosch pump... i need to turn up the RPM.. power good just need to turn it to 2100, its set at 1900 now..

wich screw, wich way????

please and thank you

open your hood and stand next to your pump now have an assitant floor the pedal now wath w=the throttle lever on the pump and see if it hits a stop screw.... if not see if you can move the lever any further.... also check to see if the throttle lever which is attatched to the pump is in dis repair....

if the throttle lever hits the high idle stop the adjust it inward if not repair or adjust the throttle linkage to get it their

if it is adjusted fully the you may have to take you pump to a pump shop as the govenor springs are internal an may need to be rebuilt.... my guess is though your linkage is screwed up..

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  • 7 years later...
5 hours ago, DanielG said:

That pump adj will do wonders if you do it right, don't go crazy and drive it yourself. RPM's help out as well I have my R set at 2450 but don't tach it out 

 

Rod stretchers at that rpm if the engine heat comes up from a hard pull.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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mta [mack trucks aus] were getting 425 hp out of e6 2v reliably because the adf [army ]were after more hp without upgrading into new trucks ,but in the end the number crunchers canned the idea as the trucks were nearing the end of their service.

 

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Please don't misunderstand me. These adj can cause major damage if pushed to extremes. Such as "strechted rods" as quoted . melted pistons, broken cranks etc. like evrything else in life moderation is the key, and knowing limitations helps as well. If I sold my truck as is someone else they would probably would melt pistons down in a week. especially if used to driving stock R, where it's foot to floor all the time 

 

Daniel Gulick

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Seen more than a few ENDT, and E6 series engine busted through the main saddles, along with snapped crankshafts from being "turned up" and abused. Being way overfueled and latched onto a heavy load with an impatient driver is a recipe for disaster on parts. I feel the 672ci Mack engine is at it's maximum balance of torque and horsepower for reliability when run right at standard 350hp setting with maybe 10% added to the pump calibration.

I've watched Caterpillar engineers with engines in a test cell having strain gauges mounted everywhere measuring block twist under torque loading till failure. The same happens with an engine in a truck only it's not in a controlled atmosphere and the E6 does like to twist as it's a lightweight casting.  

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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that is right you will break anything if you flog and abuse it . it all comes down to understanding the meaning of "mechanical sympathy" and only using 80% of duty cycle ,some people expect to use 110% of d/c  and wonder why things fail

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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