Springs:

[vanscottbuilders]

Rob,

This is my best guess - because I have never swapped the springs from a B-61 to a B-67 but ---

The spring boxes and insulating rubbers show as the same part numbers in the parts manual for the model FA-505 front axle.

The B-67 utilizes the same frame and running gear as the B-61, just different cab mount locations and slightly different radiator shell. And. obviously, the different bellhousing to allow the slant and the right hand starter mount.

As for re-arching, I have used the cold re-arch method twice in B model Macks with excellent results. Keep in mind that these are no longer work trucks, and will see very light usage.

With a restoration project, it is pretty much standard for us now to send all spring stacks into the spring shop for disassembly, replacement of any broken pieces or leaves with worn center holes, re-arching as required, and re-bolting and clamping. That way we know what we've got, and we can stand behind the product when, or if, it is sold.

A word of caution - be careful with the insulating rubbers. I found them impossible to get as new parts.

Another word of caution - be a little judicious in choosing the people you trust to do your measuring. Some B-53 owners have had their brains rattled so badly that may they have some difficulty with normal daily functions. Reading a tape measure may be out of the question.

Hope this helps.

Paul VS

[Rob]

Rob,

This is my best guess - because I have never swapped the springs from a B-61 to a B-67 but ---

The spring boxes and insulating rubbers show as the same part numbers in the parts manual for the model FA-505 front axle.

The B-67 utilizes the same frame and running gear as the B-61, just different cab mount locations and slightly different radiator shell. And. obviously, the different bellhousing to allow the slant and the right hand starter mount.

As for re-arching, I have used the cold re-arch method twice in B model Macks with excellent results. Keep in mind that these are no longer work trucks, and will see very light usage.

With a restoration project, it is pretty much standard for us now to send all spring stacks into the spring shop for disassembly, replacement of any broken pieces or leaves with worn center holes, re-arching as required, and re-bolting and clamping. That way we know what we've got, and we can stand behind the product when, or if, it is sold.

A word of caution - be careful with the insulating rubbers. I found them impossible to get as new parts.

Another word of caution - be a little judicious in choosing the people you trust to do your measuring. Some B-53 owners have had their brains rattled so badly that may they have some difficulty with normal daily functions. Reading a tape measure may be out of the question.

Hope this helps.

Paul VS

Hi Paul and thanks for chipping in. I don't have any parts books for these old trucks and probably should do something about that. Dayton Spring still lists the insulators, (all three pieces) for the front boxes but that doesn't mean anyone will have them. I don't know how many pairs of 1/2, and 3/4 ton domestic produced trucks I've had the springs re-arched both hot, and cold that didn't hold up over a medium duration. I've used St. Louis Spring Co. in St. Louis many times to build new springs and really not had any problems. New 10,500# rated springs for my RL797L were $253.00 each with polygraphite bushings, and new screw eye pins which I didn't feel was too bad. The cost to re-arch, temper, and rebush with new pins was $145.00 each so I elected for new. I did have one broken main leaf on the passenger side that was to be replaced, and a second leaf with tow wrap on the other side bad. These would have added to the repair cost. It was too close to not go with new.

I've not looked at the front axle to discern if it is an FA-505 or not, but will. Think I've got an oil cooler bad on the engine due to coolant in the oil, and oil in the coolant. I've removed the oil cooler from the engine but cannot get the cooler "pack" out of the housing without deforming it. I'd have to put it in a press to place more pressure upon the "pack". There is a junk 676 engine that I dragged in from the cold and took it's oil cooler apart this evening. This one does come apart but I'm going to test it with 80psi underwater tomorrow to see if it leaks. I will then order a "kit" to rebuild it from the dealer. Hopefully I'll get to drive it again next week. Got nine stitches in my left thumb taking it apart two weekends ago when the "Dog" bit me; (I didn't even piss it off).

I've not received the information yet so I can only assume that reading a tape measure must be a perplexing problem when one is suffering from Pete withdrawl symptoms. I hear Valium is an effective treatment that calms the shaking and instability associated with attempting to traverse to point B from point A in one of them things.

Rob

[theakerstwo]

Rob i dont recall ever having any trouble out of the hot or cold rearch progess but then i did not go with that truck and stay with it for the next few years so i dont know how they would last against new metal or new springs.I know the dealer ship would not here of it but they were into selling new parts.

[theakerstwo]

Paul i was out to the spring shop today and it was time for them to start to close for the party i guess and i did not have time to look but did get Art to look and he does have 2 in stock spring insulators for the front on B models.Sounds way he talked they will be what B models used.

[other dog]

Another word of wisdom - great job in choosing the people you trust to do your measuring. Some B-53 owners have brains that are far beyond the capabilities of most normal people.

I even have some difficulty with normal daily functions. Reading a tape measure may be out of the question.

Hope this helps.

Paul VS

thanks Paul, that's one less thing I have to do...been busy watching TV and waiting by the phone all week-still hasn't rung.

[Greg Rider]

lean on the driver side while setting on the shop floor. The driver's side sping is almost flat, while the passenger side retains a positive arch

Thanks,

Rob

Really....................YOUR truck has a lean on the DRIVER SIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would stop thinking about springs and think of the possibility of fitting railroad rail in place to prevent any more lean.

[Rob]

Really....................YOUR truck has a lean on the DRIVER SIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would stop thinking about springs and think of the possibility of fitting railroad rail in place to prevent any more lean.

If I'd have owned and operated this truck for any kind of time I would think my mass would have caused the lean, but not the case this time. I may need to install an extra leaf, or use a heavier rated pack for compensation on the driver's side to make sure things stay level and that is a viable option.

Incidently, I've lost 22 of the 46 pounds gained since I seen you guys last. I'm trying really hard too get back to 300 because I want to drive this truck without my belly stopping the return to center of the steering wheel upon completion of a turn.

Rob

[theakerstwo]

ncidently, I've lost 22 of the 46 pounds gained since I seen you guys last. I'm trying really hard too get back to 300 because I want to drive this truck without my belly stopping the return to center of the steering wheel upon completion of a turn.

Now this is funny. I have seen Rob LOL. glenn

[Rob]

ncidently, I've lost 22 of the 46 pounds gained since I seen you guys last. I'm trying really hard too get back to 300 because I want to drive this truck without my belly stopping the return to center of the steering wheel upon completion of a turn.

Now this is funny. I have seen Rob LOL. glenn

Glenn I'm trying to be conservative with my guestimations on weight. I don't get on no scales cause they scare the shit outta me. I could be up around 400 pounds by now but think I'm about 350 give or take 20.

Rob