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I did one thing Mack said don't do. I put a 1/4" thick flat steel plate in between my EGR valve and exhaust manifold so it can't transfer exhaust gases into the intake. I left all the sensors in place and the wires intact so it thinks it's still working. Not only did it lower the engine temp but it also gave me about 1/2 mile more per gallon on fuel.

i copied this post from a different subject. hope he doesn't mind? tell me what you think

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I don't mind bigen. I hope somebody can shed some light on it for us.

Theres one thing about this Jerry you will not have any problems with the egr cooler cracking with no flow it will never get hot!

I do know that if the egr valve is stuck open or closed or if the egr cooler is pluged the computer won't tell you theres a problem

so pluging off the valve at the manifold does make some sence.no flow in the egr tube will tell the computer to open the egr valve but with no where to go but out, there you have it!

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EGR is a useless system mandated by the government....and the government is run mostly by lawyers. I don't know of ANY diesel mechanics or even truck drivers who currently serve in congress.

Personally I'd be looking for a way to bypass it myself if I had a truck that had it...especially if it were causing me problems. Same with the DPF and the up & coming SCR. Heck, I knocked the innards out of the catalytic converter on my '86 Ranger. I pulled the airbox off my motorcycle and switched to individual pod air filters and had to block off the emissions crap too. When I was shortening my exhaust stacks, I made sure the baffles were knocked out or the mufflers on my Mack.

Engines are supposed to be able to breathe. The less restriction to the air flow, the better. Cold air & fuel in, hot exhaust out. When you put hot exhaust back IN, you have less room for air & fuel, as well as a hotter air/fuel mix....makes absolutely no sense to me. A hot intake charge won't make as much power as a cold one.

If it works, more power to ya. :thumb:

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When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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Theres one thing about this Jerry you will not have any problems with the egr cooler cracking with no flow it will never get hot!

I do know that if the egr valve is stuck open or closed or if the egr cooler is pluged the computer won't tell you theres a problem

so pluging off the valve at the manifold does make some sence.no flow in the egr tube will tell the computer to open the egr valve but with no where to go but out, there you have it!

That was my original thinking fjh. I had replaced the cooler once and didn't want that prob again. so far on just over 100,000 it's still doing fine and the fuel mileage gain doesn't hurt either.

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EGR is a useless system mandated by the government....and the government is run mostly by lawyers. I don't know of ANY diesel mechanics or even truck drivers who currently serve in congress.

Personally I'd be looking for a way to bypass it myself if I had a truck that had it...especially if it were causing me problems. Same with the DPF and the up & coming SCR. Heck, I knocked the innards out of the catalytic converter on my '86 Ranger. I pulled the airbox off my motorcycle and switched to individual pod air filters and had to block off the emissions crap too. When I was shortening my exhaust stacks, I made sure the baffles were knocked out or the mufflers on my Mack.

Engines are supposed to be able to breathe. The less restriction to the air flow, the better. Cold air & fuel in, hot exhaust out. When you put hot exhaust back IN, you have less room for air & fuel, as well as a hotter air/fuel mix....makes absolutely no sense to me. A hot intake charge won't make as much power as a cold one.

If it works, more power to ya. :thumb:

Hey Rowdy,

I read how they bypass the SCR systems in Europe. For Euro 5 SCR they run a bypass pipe around the catalyst with a butterfly valve. When the butterfly valve is open 80% of the exhaust flows strait through with 20% flowing through the catalyst. You cant 100% bypass the catalyst because according to the Euro 5 law any SCR errors mean the engine is polluting and it de-rates the engine, so in essence your stuck in limp home mode. So that 20% keeps the computer happy, prolongs the catalyst life and give you that strait pipe sound. On Euro 4 systems you can 100% bypass because there was no law at that time that called for de-rating. It could possibly be done here for DPF and DPF/SCR systems. But God help you if your caught by the EPA cops.

-Thad

What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog!

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looked at mine, to cold to do more than that, im gona give it a try. it would be nice if an engineer would log on a different computer to conceal his identity and tell us what else to do allong with that modification, im sure we can figure some way to get him/her a case of beer.

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I'm just really suprised (especially with the poor performance of a lot of late model Macks)that nobody has broke into their ecm's yet. There's all kinds of aftermarket ecm's and programmers for Cat, Cummins and Detroit, like the Pittsburgh Power box. That's why I went with a Binder and a Cat. Unlimited power and a fuel mileage increase when driven easy on the lower settings. It would be nice to see a tuner for Mack, as the Blixxton's only worked on the older models.

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is it as easy as just removing the egr and adding the plate

Yes bigen. I used the gasket for my template and cut a flat piece to fit. Put the gasket back between the EGR and plate so it don't leak then just sit the EGR back on top and nobody knows it's there. I'm in the windy city this morning I think it was 8 degrees

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I'm just really suprised (especially with the poor performance of a lot of late model Macks)that nobody has broke into their ecm's yet. There's all kinds of aftermarket ecm's and programmers for Cat, Cummins and Detroit, like the Pittsburgh Power box. That's why I went with a Binder and a Cat. Unlimited power and a fuel mileage increase when driven easy on the lower settings. It would be nice to see a tuner for Mack, as the Blixxton's only worked on the older models.

steinberg makes a power box for the 99 and up, and there is a diesel shop in northren IL that plays with the ecm's s about 150 extra hp

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Maybe I'll go buy that '04 and just do that... :wacko:

I tried one of those "power" boxes on my '97...didn't notice a damn bit of difference. I was thinking about doing like that Discount Tire commercial and throwing it back through the front window...

There's no replacement for displacement.

Ever wonder how a blind person knows when to stop wiping?

gallery_1977_876_21691.jpg

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What's the details on the Steinberg box? Never heard of them.

http://www.steinbauer.cc/neu/index.php?select_c=us

Also Bruce at that Pittsburgh Power is planing on converting their (Detroit) power box to work on

E-tecks but you didn't here it from me

gallery_133_137_10125.jpg

Thanks for hearing me out.

You can have the soap box now---------JIM

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http://www.steinbauer.cc/neu/index.php?select_c=us

Also Bruce at that Pittsburgh Power is planing on converting their (Detroit) power box to work on

E-tecks but you didn't here it from me

I e-mailed Bruce a while back about a box for a Mack, he said there was not enough interest for it to build one, although if he could finds several guienue pigs I mean test trucks he would build a box for the late model Macks

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Thanks MackCL96. If Pitts. new box works as good as their Cat box that would be good news. I also just found another site. www.nwtruck.com They're in Alberta Canada. They show injectors and turbo that claim to dyno 563h.p./2000lb./ft. for Mack E-tech.

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Yes bigen. I used the gasket for my template and cut a flat piece to fit. Put the gasket back between the EGR and plate so it don't leak then just sit the EGR back on top and nobody knows it's there. I'm in the windy city this morning I think it was 8 degrees

thanks for the reply. i went out about 6pm. this evening to do my pretrip, brake lite out wire coroded in two, brakes on trailer froze,all locks on tool boxes froze,to cold to keep mini torch lit, couldnt get 5th wheel to latch, broke air line on 5th wheel slide,finally ready to roll 1am. 4 degrees, i gota have a nap first. I LOVE TRUCKIN!

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Maybe I'll go buy that '04 and just do that... :wacko:

I tried one of those "power" boxes on my '97...didn't notice a damn bit of difference. I was thinking about doing like that Discount Tire commercial and throwing it back through the front window...

There's no replacement for displacement.

IF YOU REALY WANT AN 04 their are hundreds of 03,04,05 all with about 300,000 miles for half the price of the one your looking at.

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I e-mailed Bruce a while back about a box for a Mack, he said there was not enough interest for it to build one, although if he could finds several guienue pigs I mean test trucks he would build a box for the late model Macks

pitt power web site says it comming!

and this place, Ive thought about calling them http://www.idc-solutions.net/MackE-7DieselPerformance.html#MACK%20ETEC%20etech%20performance%20power%20chip%20module

Edited by bobo
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I also just found another site. www.nwtruck.com They're in Alberta Canada. They show injectors and turbo that claim to dyno 563h.p./2000lb./ft. for Mack E-tech.

That's doable the marine version of the E-tech was around 750hp would be nice to know what Mack put in the motor to get it

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IF YOU REALY WANT AN 04 their are hundreds of 03,04,05 all with about 300,000 miles for half the price of the one your looking at.

My comment on buying that '04 was tongue in cheek... I'm not buying nor even considering it.

Ever wonder how a blind person knows when to stop wiping?

gallery_1977_876_21691.jpg

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I did one thing Mack said don't do. I put a 1/4" thick flat steel plate in between my EGR valve and exhaust manifold so it can't transfer exhaust gases into the intake. I left all the sensors in place and the wires intact so it thinks it's still working. Not only did it lower the engine temp but it also gave me about 1/2 mile more per gallon on fuel.

i copied this post from a different subject. hope he doesn't mind? tell me what you think

I cant see how this would work with out the malfunction light coming on and possible engine derate. The mass flow sensor (steel tube with 2 welded in sensors) reads EGR flow and temp coming out of the EGR cooler when the EGR valve opens. There is a "target flow" that the ECM is looking for ( lets say 14 LBS) the mass flow sensor measures actual flow and compares the two readings and if there is a big enough difference (10 LBS I think) it will set an active code and think the EGR cooler is plugged or EGR valve is not opening and this could derate the engine. I would like to try it myself to see. Next time I have one of our "truck sales" trucks apart for exhaust manifold gaskets I can stick the plate on and test drive it. If I put the right ohm resistor in place of the flow sensor to tell the ECM it has 8 lbs flow( 8 LBS would be in the middle of the min and max flow) all the time I might get it to work.

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I cant see how this would work with out the malfunction light coming on and possible engine derate. The mass flow sensor (steel tube with 2 welded in sensors) reads EGR flow and temp coming out of the EGR cooler when the EGR valve opens. There is a "target flow" that the ECM is looking for ( lets say 14 LBS) the mass flow sensor measures actual flow and compares the two readings and if there is a big enough difference (10 LBS I think) it will set an active code and think the EGR cooler is plugged or EGR valve is not opening and this could derate the engine. I would like to try it myself to see. Next time I have one of our "truck sales" trucks apart for exhaust manifold gaskets I can stick the plate on and test drive it. If I put the right ohm resistor in place of the flow sensor to tell the ECM it has 8 lbs flow( 8 LBS would be in the middle of the min and max flow) all the time I might get it to work.

That is exactly what I was thinking when it was mentioned earlier. The ECM's in these newer vehicles are looking for a given set of operating parameters that are considered normal in operation. These are nothing more that varying voltages, or resistances. When the readings vary much a fault code is set and/or engine derate is the result. All the computers can see is a differential voltage, or resistance in the control circuit. There is nothing to do with actual flow so the system can be "tricked" into thinking it is normal, or bettered in operation.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I cant see how this would work with out the malfunction light coming on and possible engine derate. The mass flow sensor (steel tube with 2 welded in sensors) reads EGR flow and temp coming out of the EGR cooler when the EGR valve opens. There is a "target flow" that the ECM is looking for ( lets say 14 LBS) the mass flow sensor measures actual flow and compares the two readings and if there is a big enough difference (10 LBS I think) it will set an active code and think the EGR cooler is plugged or EGR valve is not opening and this could derate the engine. I would like to try it myself to see. Next time I have one of our "truck sales" trucks apart for exhaust manifold gaskets I can stick the plate on and test drive it. If I put the right ohm resistor in place of the flow sensor to tell the ECM it has 8 lbs flow( 8 LBS would be in the middle of the min and max flow) all the time I might get it to work.

Its been my observation that the puter don't care about the egr valve position! It looks for the target if it don't see the value it simply opens the valve more!

If the egr cooler is pluged what code do you see?? I have had egr valves fail with no codes!!!I ve seen pluged egr coolers no codes! you can hear they arent working right.

I was thinking the same about the plate we have several trucks I got in mind for this! If the flow is not there it simply opens the egr valve in turn it doesnt let the turbo spool but if there is a plate there like I said before, theres no place to go but out!!!!????

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