Retiring 61 B

[randyp]

Yall go ahead and call me crazy, but am gonna retire 1961 B-61 non turbo single axle 673 from pulling bulldozer around, bought an 85 R model 14yd dump today with heavy duty pintle hitch, gonna sell lowboy, buy pintle trailer, and ole B is gonna get a beefed up 6BT cummins with a 6 speed, flatbed with winch and gin poles, all sprayed with black bed liner, fuel transfer tank, rolling tailboard, gonna be the coolest construction support truck ever? I may run over budget rather quickly, but thats the plan for daily driver fuel truck.

[Freightrain]

Budget?? What's that?? LOL!!!

Sounds like a pretty cool idea.

[thermodynediesel]

Cool,Post pictures as you go along with the trandformation.

Mike

[Rob]

Yall go ahead and call me crazy, but am gonna retire 1961 B-61 non turbo single axle 673 from pulling bulldozer around, bought an 85 R model 14yd dump today with heavy duty pintle hitch, gonna sell lowboy, buy pintle trailer, and ole B is gonna get a beefed up 6BT cummins with a 6 speed, flatbed with winch and gin poles, all sprayed with black bed liner, fuel transfer tank, rolling tailboard, gonna be the coolest construction support truck ever? I may run over budget rather quickly, but thats the plan for daily driver fuel truck.

Ok, I will. You're Crazy!!, (I'd do the same though). Don't you feel better now? Glad to see you make use of it rather than move it down the road.

Rob

[randyp]

Ok, I will. You're Crazy!!, (I'd do the same though). Don't you feel better now? Glad to see you make use of it rather than move it down the road.

Rob

yeah well, it moves the dozer alright, just kinda slow, get all busy up in that cab when its loaded. Heh,,,Heh,,,wife says now I can streamline a little, move dozer and excavator with same truck I haul dirt with. She actually thought I would sell B when I made this move,,,silly woman! I get this all worked out, I may just drive around looking for something to fuel or winch up,,screw actually working. ive already located a bed with rolling tailboard and winch, gonna take a lot of blasting,,its old. The tough part is gonna be locating a donor cummins and 6 speed, I have a friend who helps me a lot and says he can work the mating driveline problem out. I get all this kicked off, I will have and outstanding non turbo 673 and 10 speed duplex for sale, and I will keep some pics going of it (in some pics my wife may be holding a ball bat though) later,,dudes (My friend is a cummins guru and wants to bump it up to bout 400 horsepower, dont really want to burn tires up though, he has a 79 ford f-250 crew cab he put a 4-BT in and drives to work everyday)

[Rob]

yeah well, it moves the dozer alright, just kinda slow, get all busy up in that cab when its loaded. Heh,,,Heh,,,wife says now I can streamline a little, move dozer and excavator with same truck I haul dirt with. She actually thought I would sell B when I made this move,,,silly woman! I get this all worked out, I may just drive around looking for something to fuel or winch up,,screw actually working. ive already located a bed with rolling tailboard and winch, gonna take a lot of blasting,,its old. The tough part is gonna be locating a donor cummins and 6 speed, I have a friend who helps me a lot and says he can work the mating driveline problem out. I get all this kicked off, I will have and outstanding non turbo 673 and 10 speed duplex for sale, and I will keep some pics going of it (in some pics my wife may be holding a ball bat though) later,,dudes (My friend is a cummins guru and wants to bump it up to bout 400 horsepower, dont really want to burn tires up though, he has a 79 ford f-250 crew cab he put a 4-BT in and drives to work everyday)

I can side with slow on these trucks. I would however probably stay with a Mack engine as I am much more familiar. They can also be had at much less expense. That is just my opinion as I know virtually nothing more about Cummins engines. I also favor a Mack transmission and would probably not change the duplex out because I like mine.

I'll be interested in your old parts when available as they would be used in another restoration, (I don't sell anything myself).

Rob

[randyp]

I can side with slow on these trucks. I would however probably stay with a Mack engine as I am much more familiar. They can also be had at much less expense. That is just my opinion as I know virtually nothing more about Cummins engines. I also favor a Mack transmission and would probably not change the duplex out because I like mine.

I'll be interested in your old parts when available as they would be used in another restoration, (I don't sell anything myself).

Rob

okay rob, will keep you in mind and let you know how it goes along, the 673 and duplex are spotless,,not a single leak, you could eat off them (I have read on here before your somewhat of strange cook anyway),,,Randy

[HK Trucking]

I'd recommend keeping it all Mack.

If you want more power, just put a 237 in there.

.

[randyp]

I'd recommend keeping it all Mack.

If you want more power, just put a 237 in there.

.

yeah, I hear ya HK, Im looking for plastic or maybe its fiberglass square trim around headlights for 1986 R-688ST, I found the flat or chrome flat trim that fits around headlights, but these are the inserts that go around those, found that at jpchrome, also found place online for aftermarket new hoods, havent checked on price yet,(that may make me squirm a little). The 86 is gonna need lots of little ffix up pieces here and there, thanks for info,,,have a good day,,,Randy

[Rob]

yeah, I hear ya HK, Im looking for plastic or maybe its fiberglass square trim around headlights for 1986 R-688ST, I found the flat or chrome flat trim that fits around headlights, but these are the inserts that go around those, found that at jpchrome, also found place online for aftermarket new hoods, havent checked on price yet,(that may make me squirm a little). The 86 is gonna need lots of little ffix up pieces here and there, thanks for info,,,have a good day,,,Randy

Stay away from Dawson Truck Parts vendored hoods and bumpers. If you can afford it go with a "Jones Performance" hood if you cannot find a good used original. They will fit with little effort for cleanup. The other brand will have you fighting for hours to acheive a half-assed alignment. I've fought that vendor many times as they are the least expensive several insurance companies in this area have found. Always a guaranteed four to six hour supplemental add order to get paid fairly. The quality of their product mimics the pricing.

The headlamp trim/recess panels have always been stamped metal to the best of my knowledge. There are also three different sizes/styles. I don't have any for the "600" series trucks myself, but they should be easy to acquire.

Rob

[MACKS]

Keep an eye on e-bay I picked up a lot parts for my 85 rd some of them were brand new,also seen quite a few hoods on there as well.Good Luck

[randyp]

Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

[randyp]

Keep an eye on e-bay I picked up a lot parts for my 85 rd some of them were brand new,also seen quite a few hoods on there as well.Good Luck

That is one fine looking rig, MACKS, I like that,,,later,,,Randy

[randyp]

Oh yeah MACKS, had a question for you, 86 R supposedy had clutch replaced bout 3 thousand miles ago, how much free play should the clutch pedal have? On my 61-B,you come off the floor bout and inch and your rolling,on this R-model, you press clutch pedal down bout an inch or so and its disengaged, driving those two trucks is very different. I start letting clutch out on R model and begin to wonder if Im even in gear, just nearly all way up till it takes hold, starts up real good and smooth though, clutch on B goes through floor and it better be pressed all way to floor or you gonna be rolling , better not even wiggle your foot till your ready,,,LOL,,,thanks,,,Randy

[randyp]

Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

Oh yeah Rob, forgot to mention, when I was messing with those batteries today, I remember reading your good lesson on batteries and connections, seems like it was a good while back, you gave an excellent class on it, thought bout that lesson while I was out there,,thanks,,Randy

[randyp]

Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

[Rob]

Oh yeah Rob, forgot to mention, when I was messing with those batteries today, I remember reading your good lesson on batteries and connections, seems like it was a good while back, you gave an excellent class on it, thought bout that lesson while I was out there,,thanks,,Randy

Always glad to teach.

Rob

[Rob]

Thanks guys, Well I been out there reallly studying my hood and I think I can probably do a little time and repair and make it look halfway decent, the most serious place is a stress crack in fiberglass around bolts on tilt bracket on right front tilt. The fiberglass (or maybe even plastic trim Im talking about Rob is the insert that goes between the stamped metal around headlights and the hood. It is 19 inches wide by bout 12 inches high , thats measuring outside to outside of about a 1 inch flat edge that goes all way around against hood, looks like insert goes into hood, then headlight, then flat stamped metal plate screws in around edges. I found the stamped plates at jpchrome, one plate even already has hole for block heater plug (which i need). Mine are pretty dinged up, and that trim Im talking about is has a lot of gaps from missing pieces and breaks. I just bought truck and has had to be boosted every time to start it, previous owner said needed 4 new 6 volt batteries, 2 on each side. Heh Heh,,,got out there today, gave all battery connections a good cleaning,,one connection was one of those emergency piece of junk strap on terminals, took it off , soldered on those good permanent ones on the end of cable, and truck spun over like button on poo poo house door and cranked,,,whoopee,,,I think batteries are okay, just bad corrosion, anyway ,,thanks for all help guys, will probably be back on here begging for more advice later,,,thanks,,,Randy

You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel.

If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage.

If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved.

Rob

[randyp]

You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel.

If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage.

If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved.

Rob

yeah, the flat piece with block heater hole in it (aluminum), i gotcha there, the other thats cracked and missing pieces,(plastic or fiberglass, goes between it and side of hood and overlaps in front of hood bout an inch all the way around, I just took a lesson from rowdy rebel on posting pics, I guess i flunked that class too, got picc i need on computer but just cant seem to get it attached to post, will keep trying, thanks for info,,Randy

[randyp]

You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel.

If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage.

If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved.

Rob

Hey Rob, I managed to post pic of headlight trim i was talking bout on odds and ends, I will get a pic of other side later(the side that is cracked pretty bad around tilt hinge) I got my diploma from posting pic college now,,,thanks for info and help,,,later..Prof. Randy

[MACKS]

Oh yeah MACKS, had a question for you, 86 R supposedy had clutch replaced bout 3 thousand miles ago, how much free play should the clutch pedal have? On my 61-B,you come off the floor bout and inch and your rolling,on this R-model, you press clutch pedal down bout an inch or so and its disengaged, driving those two trucks is very different. I start letting clutch out on R model and begin to wonder if Im even in gear, just nearly all way up till it takes hold, starts up real good and smooth though, clutch on B goes through floor and it better be pressed all way to floor or you gonna be rolling , better not even wiggle your foot till your ready,,,LOL,,,thanks,,,Randy

It sounds like you might need a clutch adjustment,I always adjust it to leave two inches of free pedal,it's important to have that free pedal so that the clutch is fully released.Also just before the pedal hits the floor the clutch brake should be engaged.I know there is a right way doing it by measuring in between the clutch brake and the through out bearing but off hand I'm not sure what the measurement is I think 3/4 inch when the clutch is released.

[randyp]

It sounds like you might need a clutch adjustment,I always adjust it to leave two inches of free pedal,it's important to have that free pedal so that the clutch is fully released.Also just before the pedal hits the floor the clutch brake should be engaged.I know there is a right way doing it by measuring in between the clutch brake and the through out bearing but off hand I'm not sure what the measurement is I think 3/4 inch when the clutch is released.

Okay thanks for help MACKS and info on that other stuff, weather gets friendlier here, will go get that checked out and up to specs, you been a big help...later...Randy

[randyp]

heres killer b getting ready to earn her keep

[joes mack]

nice lookin fleet you have there really like the b my fav color too. joe

[randyp]

nice lookin fleet you have there really like the b my fav color too. joe

Thanks Joe, ole killer B is in tip top shape mechanical and all, not a rattle or squeak, interior redone,, new rims, rubber, Its biggest downfall is not turbocharged, still pulls dozer pretty good, just falls on her face kinda quick on good hills and keeps you busy in the cab, but still fun to drive,,,later...Randy