How On Earth Do You Remove The B Model Grille Shell?

[DavidT]

I am working on a 1958 B model and need to remove the grille shell to replace the chrome on it. I have looked all over and found there are four bolts at the top and about 6 inside on each side of the grille. My problem is the ones on the side are impossible to get to. I have looked at it from every angle and found no logical way to get the grille off. I considered taking the head light panels out but there too are more bolts that can not be accessed. What am I missing here guys? There has to be some kind of order or something to get this thing off. Thanks.

[Lmackattack]

4 BOLTS UP TOP, 2 BOLTS ON THE BOTTOM, AND I THINK THERE ARE 2 BOLTS EACH SIDE NEAR THE HOOD LATCH. I DONT THINK THE HEAD LIGHT PANELS NEED TO COME OFF TO REMOVE IT....

[daveigou]

If I remember right, I think you have to remove the grill shell and front fenders as an assembly, and then break it down after its off the truck. Unless I missed something too, it was not an easy job.

Dave

[fifth wheel]

On the early trucks around pre 1963 you have to remove the outer fender, inner fender , outer headlight panel bolts, hood latch bolts on both sides of truck, and the four screws on the top of shell. You can now lift the shell and headlight panels off, then separate the shell.

You can remove the shell by carefully cutting the bolts to the headlight panels with a sawzall, but to reassemble you have to separate the fenders. I would change over to the later radiator shell mounting.

FW

[vanscottbuilders]

If you think taking it apart is fun - wait until you put it back together.

I've never had to cut any bolts to disassemble the front sheet metal, including the radiator shell,

but it really is deceptively difficult.

Removing the headlight panels is almost certainly the easiest method of getting at the radiator shell.

Small fingers, double jointed hands and a little swearing will go a long way too. There are some tough bolts

to get to.

It does come apart. Patience, patience, patience and a little more patience should do it.

There are two different attachment methods that I know of, one early and one later style. One requires the

removal of the headlight panels, one doesn't. Neither one is easier than the other, as far as I am concerned.

When reassembling, I leave the two bolts high up on the sides of the radiator shell out. There is plenty of strength in the other mountings so I don't think anything is compromised.

While it's apart, look at the lower shell support mounts. These seem to take a fair amount of abuse over the years, and normally require straightening or rebuilding to line up properly. I like to use stainless hardware in this location as it is right out in the weather and takes a real beating.

Above all - Have Fun!!

Paul Van Scott

[Superdog]

The early ones are a PITA to remove.Whichever method you choose to remove,it's definately worth your while to go to the newer syle mounting when you reassemble.I have reused the older headlight panels and simply added the brackets that hold them to the radiator support.

[Mike]

I am working on a 1958 B model and need to remove the grille shell to replace the chrome on it. I have looked all over and found there are four bolts at the top and about 6 inside on each side of the grille. My problem is the ones on the side are impossible to get to. I have looked at it from every angle and found no logical way to get the grille off. I considered taking the head light panels out but there too are more bolts that can not be accessed. What am I missing here guys? There has to be some kind of order or something to get this thing off. Thanks.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT PANELS OFF!!!

Lmackattack is correct. It takes just alittle time and Patients. Don't forget the 2 big screws at the bottom of the radiator shell.

Good Luck

mike

[Rob]

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT PANELS OFF!!!

Lmackattack is correct. It takes just alittle time and Patients. Don't forget the 2 big screws at the bottom of the radiator shell.

Good Luck

mike

Mike, you have the newer style that is easy to remove in comparison to the older style. The older ones do not have the retaining fasteners under the radiator shutters. Those are a dead giveaway to the type in question. On the old ones I just get rid of the old crusty hardware with a rivet "washing head" on the torch backed up with an angled putty knife/scraper to keep from melting a trough into the sheet metal. No real sense in fighting 50+ year old hardware only to have a good portion of it break on you.

To reassemble I spot weld stainless captive nuts to the inner structure and use stainless bolts so this problem doesn't come up again in my lifetime.

Rob

[Mike]

Mike, you have the newer style that is easy to remove in comparison to the older style. The older ones do not have the retaining fasteners under the radiator shutters. Those are a dead giveaway to the type in question. On the old ones I just get rid of the old crusty hardware with a rivet "washing head" on the torch backed up with an angled putty knife/scraper to keep from melting a trough into the sheet metal. No real sense in fighting 50+ year old hardware only to have a good portion of it break on you.

To reassemble I spot weld stainless captive nuts to the inner structure and use stainless bolts so this problem doesn't come up again in my lifetime.

Rob

Did not know Rob on his year truck. Man I'm glad I got lucky on that part or piece. I'm having a go around with parts houses, trying to find the correct upper raditor hose. Seems this city has no hose to fit mine thus far.

mike

mike

[DavidT]

Thanks guys. Sounds like I am stuck pulling the entire front fenders and all now. Man o man thats a lot of work just to change the two chrome pieces on the grille shell. I think I will suggest a new chrome one with the more modern mounting arrangement when I go back together with it. I am off now to figure out how the fenders bolt on and will let you know how it goes. This project has been fun so far and of the three Macks we have this is my favorite one but now I think I may like the EG a little better.

[Firemack]

David,

You do not need to remove the fenders, just loosen the bolts where the fenders and headlight panels meet, the fenders actually have slots in them to allow them to slide out for the removal of the headlight panels and grill shell assembly at the same time. You will also need to remove the 4 machine screws on the top of the grill shell, 2 on the center hood hinge support and 2 near the back of the radiator where the grill support and fender meet, at that point you remove the entire assembly. On the attached picture the 4 bolts with large fender washers are slotted to slide and then will be removed as well as the 2 bolts (with regular washers)bolting the fender to the headlight panel.

Good Luck,

Firemack

[Rob]

David,

You do not need to remove the fenders, just loosen the bolts where the fenders and headlight panels meet, the fenders actually have slots in them to allow them to slide out for the removal of the headlight panels and grill shell assembly at the same time. You will also need to remove the 4 machine screws on the top of the grill shell, 2 on the center hood hinge support and 2 near the back of the radiator where the grill support and fender meet, at that point you remove the entire assembly. On the attached picture the 4 bolts with large fender washers are slotted to slide and then will be removed as well as the 2 bolts (with regualr washers)bolting the fender to the headlight panel.

Good Luck,

Firemack

That is a nice photo to show exactly why I torch them off. These things are always encrusted in an ashalt and road grime mixture from wheel splash that does a good job of corroding the area. By the time the fasteners are corroded, and the parent base metal thinned and weakened by corrosion, it's much easier to eliminate them with the blue wrench.

Here is what I typically do:

After the panels are separated, I grind with a carbide burr removing the weak areas of the bolting flanges back to strong material. Then replacement material is butt welded in. Using a 5/16" drilled hole in your new bolting flange weldment, (centered where you need the slot), use the carbide burr to slot the holes back to near original size, and finish grind to fit and form with a 3" grinding wheel on a rt. angle grinder.

I certainly don't mean the hijack the thread but I was working on a lot of these trucks, (body and paint) when they were 10 to 20 years old and routinely running the roads. Most of the fasteners would not readily remove without heat in that timeframe in this area, (midwest) so you can imagine the ravages of 30 or more years plus added to that.

Rob