More Hp

[alexb]

any of you mack pros could tell me if i could turn up my 355/380 ??? every time i go to a dealer here in jersey they give me a run around story

[Mackpro]

any of you mack pros could tell me if i could turn up my 355/380 ??? every time i go to a dealer here in jersey they give me a run around story

Last 6 of the vin and I can tell you exactly what you need. Best guess right now, you would need turbo, injectors, download and possible off set key way on the camshaft (to prevent overheating). We do alot of HP conversions here at our shop.

[alexb]

mackpro68 i thankyou much for your great info last 6 is 118142

[Mackpro]

Your truck needs the turbo, injectors, download and the cam gear key way changed. Its ashame as you just had your cam out and they could have cahnged the key way and bumped the HP to 460. Here is a chart I made for the ETECH only engines showing the difference in engine parts per HP. I have different list for the CCRS style ETECH and the ASET-AC and AI versions.

[alexb]

thankyou 68...you have more info on my truck in 2 days than any of the mack dealers here in jersey in 9 years that i have owned this truck

[Mackpro]

thankyou 68...you have more info on my truck in 2 days than any of the mack dealers here in jersey in 9 years that i have owned this truck

When I pulled your truck up in the Mack parts system it said it had be converted to a 400 HP. I then went to the software/engine site and found it was still a 355/380. Which is good because the 355/380 puts out 1560 ft lbs of torque (same as a 427), the 400HP puts out 1460 ft lbs of torque. If I was going to change I would go to a 460 and get the 1660 ft lbs.

[QCDriver]

Your truck needs the turbo, injectors, download and the cam gear key way changed. Its ashame as you just had your cam out and they could have cahnged the key way and bumped the HP to 460. Here is a chart I made for the ETECH only engines showing the difference in engine parts per HP. I have different list for the CCRS style ETECH and the ASET-AC and AI versions.

Could you look mine up also?

139664

Thanks

[vision386]

any of you mack pros could tell me if i could turn up my 355/380 ??? every time i go to a dealer here in jersey they give me a run around story

ab2,who'ya dealing with up there? cambria? this is a pretty straight-forward operation, any mack shop should be able to help you out,or at least steer you in the right direction.....mark

[Mackpro]

Could you look mine up also?

139664

Thanks

Yours was built on 1/16/2001 and is a regular ETECH engine , same as engine above, requring turbo, injectors and off set cam keyway. My hope was yours being built in 2001 was a CCRS style engine that requires no cam keyway change regardless of HP level. If it was a CCRS ETECH it would be cheaper to bump up due to no keyway change. As with all HP upgrades on ETECHs make sure you have the big vibration damper on, if not get one. You can tell if you got the big one by it almost touches the front motor mount horseshoe. On the small damper you can fit your fingers between the damper and mount.

[QCDriver]

Yours was built on 1/16/2001 and is a regular ETECH engine , same as engine above, requring turbo, injectors and off set cam keyway. My hope was yours being built in 2001 was a CCRS style engine that requires no cam keyway change regardless of HP level. If it was a CCRS ETECH it would be cheaper to bump up due to no keyway change. As with all HP upgrades on ETECHs make sure you have the big vibration damper on, if not get one. You can tell if you got the big one by it almost touches the front motor mount horseshoe. On the small damper you can fit your fingers between the damper and mount.

Thanks for the info. How can I tell if it is a CCRS engine?

[Mackpro]

Thanks for the info. How can I tell if it is a CCRS engine?

A regular ETECH has a plastic fuel return hose coming off the front or back (mostly front) of the head going to the fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side of the block above the air compressor. The CCRS has no plastic line. The ASET AC and AI engines also dont have the line.

[QCDriver]

Well mine is plastic so now we know? Whats a ball park price for the parts?

Thanks

[Mackpro]

Well mine is plastic so now we know? Whats a ball park price for the parts?

Thanks

The injectors are $181 each and the Mack turbo is around $2100. I think a turbo shop could build one cheaper though. The labor to change the cam keyway is what is the killer. About 16+ hrs to change the keyway. If we were to do the whole conversion in our shop it would be over $5000.

[QCDriver]

Would it be possible to get part #'s for the injectors and turbo? I needed a turbo last year Mack wanted 2k for a reman. I bought a reman for $795 local and had same warrenty as Mack.

Thanks

[QCDriver]

Also, what is involved in a cam keyway change? I never got this invovled on a diesel. But with the economy as it is, need I say more..

[Mackpro]

Also, what is involved in a cam keyway change? I never got this invovled on a diesel. But with the economy as it is, need I say more..

Injector # 736GB415M2X (X means reman). Turbo # 631GC5173AMX (of course X means reman as well). The orignal 460 HP turbos were around $800-900 but the newer models have a super hard titanium impeller wheel. Most turbo shops can build the same thing with out the titanium wheel for a whole lot less. The camshaft has to come out and the cam gear pressed off and a off set keyway installed to retard the timing to prevent overheating in the summer. If you had a CL with the huge radiator you might get buy without the keyway change. We tried it with a RD and a CX and was ok in the winter but when the summer came they overheated.

[QCDriver]

Injector # 736GB415M2X (X means reman). Turbo # 631GC5173AMX (of course X means reman as well). The orignal 460 HP turbos were around $800-900 but the newer models have a super hard titanium impeller wheel. Most turbo shops can build the same thing with out the titanium wheel for a whole lot less. The camshaft has to come out and the cam gear pressed off and a off set keyway installed to retard the timing to prevent overheating in the summer. If you had a CL with the huge radiator you might get buy without the keyway change. We tried it with a RD and a CX and was ok in the winter but when the summer came they overheated.

Thanks Alot for all your info. Mine is a CH and radiator is the same size as set foreword CL. Is there also a ECM flash?

[Mackpro]

Thanks Alot for all your info. Mine is a CH and radiator is the same size as set foreword CL. Is there also a ECM flash?

Yes , there is a data file for the engine ECM that Mack turns on and the dealer programs it into the truck. Since your truck is a regular ETECH 355-380. I have some info for ya here in a bit.

[Mackpro]

One of my friends owns a early CV with a regular ETECH 400HP. His friend bought a CV as well with a 427HP. Now my buddy wants his 400 bumped up but like you he doesnt want to pull the cam and go through all that cost. So I called http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/performance-mack-c-23_67.html and talked to them, they were very helpful and the guy I talked to really knew his stuff. (their injectors are alot cheaper than the Mack remans)I had my buddy give them a call but he hasn't decided what to do yet. Maybe a set of stage II injectors might be all you need. I also posted this, however it only applies to 427 CCRS engines, just in case anyone out there has a weak 427 CCRS. Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. Just something I thought I would pass on to you guys. One of our customers bought one of these trucks and fixed it himself (I first put a 460HP datafile in it )but he had some bigger injectors buit and put on a 500HP Detroit Diesel 60 series turbo on and says it will scream, I have seen it in action and it seems to really get up and go.

[QCDriver]

One of my friends owns a early CV with a regular ETECH 400HP. His friend bought a CV as well with a 427HP. Now my buddy wants his 400 bumped up but like you he doesnt want to pull the cam and go through all that cost. So I called http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/performance-mack-c-23_67.html and talked to them, they were very helpful and the guy I talked to really knew his stuff. (their injectors are alot cheaper than the Mack remans)I had my buddy give them a call but he hasn't decided what to do yet. Maybe a set of stage II injectors might be all you need. I also posted this, however it only applies to 427 CCRS engines, just in case anyone out there has a weak 427 CCRS. Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. Just something I thought I would pass on to you guys. One of our customers bought one of these trucks and fixed it himself (I first put a 460HP datafile in it )but he had some bigger injectors buit and put on a 500HP Detroit Diesel 60 series turbo on and says it will scream, I have seen it in action and it seems to really get up and go.

This is promising. I'm going to do something within 2-3 months for SURE. Max boost as it sits now is 30. I believe I need injectors anyway. When the outside temp gets warmer to hot it tends to load up and miss when starting out low rpm. I puffs alittle blue and cleans out when I floor it. I put a new fuel pump on and it did not change, so injector must be leaking or something. (thats my guess, good reason to buy hotter injectors ..)

I have a Davco 382 pro heated. I notice a couple of small bubbles from time to time but can not find any leaks. What is your thought on this? Everyone else please chime in on possible fixes for my problem.

Thanks