Engine Knock

[bron32]

Hello.

We have a 1980 superliner mack with a e9 v-8 engine. It developed a knock in the engine, with oil or diesel fuel running out the exhaust manifold. We took the injector line of to number 8 cylinder and it smoothened right out. Thinking it was a bad injector, we numbered and took them all out and down to the injection shop. They say their is nothing wrong with it and it appears to be a new one.

Does anyone have any suggestions. We are going to put the injectors back in, after they get cleaned up and see. The valve springs don't appear to be broken.

Should we take the pan off or take the head off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Byron

[bullhusk]

I would pull the head off first & see if there is a hole in your piston BUT DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE until you find the trouble!! It could be a wrist pin or a rod bearing if either lets go with the motor running you will have some new boat parts. BULLHUSK

[fjh]

Hello.

We have a 1980 superliner mack with a e9 v-8 engine. It developed a knock in the engine, with oil or diesel fuel running out the exhaust manifold. We took the injector line of to number 8 cylinder and it smoothened right out. Thinking it was a bad injector, we numbered and took them all out and down to the injection shop. They say their is nothing wrong with it and it appears to be a new one.

Does anyone have any suggestions. We are going to put the injectors back in, after they get cleaned up and see. The valve springs don't appear to be broken.

Should we take the pan off or take the head off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Byron

You likly have a droped valve seat!This usually happens when the engine is shut down ,next time the engine is started it begins to knock! more of a hammering sound! Pull the head off and look!you will likly need to replace the piston, liner Maybe , and head .

and turbo if ths is what you find!

[bron32]

Hello All.

We took the pan off and the bearing on number 8 looked good. There is a little play on the wrist pin but it hard

to tell when laying under there.

My next question is how much of the intake manifold is to be removed to get the head off ? Is it like a chevy 350 where everything has to be taken off to get at the head. Or can I take the 4 bolts that the intake bolts to the head and then slide the head down and away from it ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Byron

[fjh]

Hello All.

We took the pan off and the bearing on number 8 looked good. There is a little play on the wrist pin but it hard

to tell when laying under there.

My next question is how much of the intake manifold is to be removed to get the head off ? Is it like a chevy 350 where everything has to be taken off to get at the head. Or can I take the 4 bolts that the intake bolts to the head and then slide the head down and away from it ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Byron

You leave the intake in place.

Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion

inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

[bron32]

You leave the intake in place.

Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion

inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

Thanks for the info. I will keep u updated when I get it apart.

[bron32]

Hello all.

We pulled the pan off and didn't see much problem. So took the head off and found lots of damage. Looks like the valve seat let go.

[hatcity]

OUCH- what does cylinder look like?

[bron32]

OUCH- what does cylinder look like?

Ya the liner is also scored. Hopefully we can find some good used parts.

[fjh]

Ya the liner is also scored. Hopefully we can find some good used parts.

That engine ran awhile like that !!!! Be sure to look at the turbo and back blow the exhast tube.The turbo wheel likly has hunks out of it as well.B sure to take the engine serial #no with you when buying orings for the liners three up dates happened a white dot oring was the most common The parts guys Should be able to direct you on that BUT Some arent to bright, If you buy a liner kit It usually comes with the TSB!If your going used post the ser #no here and we will be able to dig up the info.Serial no is stamped RH front of the block near the pan.If it has ac its under the ac bracket!

[rhasler]

That engine ran awhile like that !!!! Be sure to look at the turbo and back blow the exhast tube.The turbo wheel likly has hunks out of it as well.

It looks like there was plenty of valve/piston contact. You might want to check the rod and make sure it isn't bent.

[bron32]

Hello.

The combine had just filled the semi trailer. I started the truck and it sounded different. We idled the truck home,which was about 1/2 mile to get it unloaded. I never reved it over 700 rpm. In hind sight I should have just shut it down, but the damage may have already been done. The thought of docking a fully loaded grain trailer in a soft field isn't great either.

The turbo turns over good with no signs of damage. I did empty the shop vac out and then sucked on the exhaust side of the turbo. I did recover a small chunk of valve seat, about a 1/4 of a inch.

Thanks for all the advice.

Will keep u guys posted as we go forward.

Cheers

Byron

[fjh]

It looks like there was plenty of valve/piston contact. You might want to check the rod and make sure it isn't bent.

Usually this dosent bend the rod !But a good check, Also Post a picture of the liner when ya get time!Don't pull it yet! If its just a farm truck to haul from the feild to the barn you might want to just fuss up the liner with a hone and slam a used piston and head on.

[BakerSmith]

You probably are hearing valve knock. If you havent had them adjusted, its probably due. Have them check at your next service....or before your next service. Change ur clutch plate and change spark plug. Clean carburater. check Gearbox problems if any......

[hatcity]

You probably are hearing valve knock. If you havent had them adjusted, its probably due. Have them check at your next service....or before your next service. Change ur clutch plate and change spark plug. Clean carburater. check Gearbox problems if any......

Ya think that might be the problem? AZZHAT-LOOK AT THE PICS

Oh and BTW diesel engines don't have spark plugs.

Ask mommy to turn the computer off

[vision386]

Ya think that might be the problem? AZZHAT-LOOK AT THE PICS

Oh and BTW diesel engines don't have spark plugs.

Ask mommy to turn the computer off

LMAO!.......maybe its the points or condenser causing the problem?................Mark

[Mike]

Dogon it....and I thought it was the thingamajig. Givem an inch and they'll take a mile.

mike

[convoyduel]

You probably are hearing valve knock. If you havent had them adjusted, its probably due. Have them check at your next service....or before your next service. Change ur clutch plate and change spark plug. Clean carburater. check Gearbox problems if any......

I'm thinking maybe he just got some bad gas. Run a tank of higher octane and a can of Heet and it should clear up.

Now I've got a good sense of humor and can come off a bit dry at times, but that post sounded a bit too serious for me.

[bron32]

Hello all

I went to the valve repair shop. They figured they could repair the head. After looking at it and magna fluxing it he found a crack between the two valves. The enginge must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. Or the injection tube leaked and caused it.

Does anyone have a used head out there ?

The truck model number is: RWS721LST

serial number is: 1M1V121Y8BH054234

engine number is: EM9-400

It is a 1980 SuperLiner.

Can't seem to find any in Saskatchewan. We live north of where Montana and North Dakota meet.

Its too good of a old truck just to park.

Cheers

Byron Skjerdal

[Rob]

Hello all

I went to the valve repair shop. They figured they could repair the head. After looking at it and magna fluxing it he found a crack between the two valves. The enginge must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. Or the injection tube leaked and caused it.

Does anyone have a used head out there ?

The truck model number is: RWS721LST

serial number is: 1M1V121Y8BH054234

engine number is: EM9-400

It is a 1980 SuperLiner.

Can't seem to find any in Saskatchewan. We live north of where Montana and North Dakota meet.

Its too good of a old truck just to park.

Cheers

Byron Skjerdal

Hi Byron, I think it may be prudent to pull the other three heads from the engine for evaluation before expending the funds to acquire another used one, and possibly finding out later underlying problems. Head gaskets are cheap and if the other heads are good, a valve job is cheap insurance at this point. I don't have an E9 series of V8 Mack engine but several of the ENDT865, and 866 series so I'm a bit partial to the layout.

Rob

[fjh]

Hello all

I went to the valve repair shop. They figured they could repair the head. After looking at it and magna fluxing it he found a crack between the two valves. The enginge must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. Or the injection tube leaked and caused it.

Does anyone have a used head out there ?

The truck model number is: RWS721LST

serial number is: 1M1V121Y8BH054234

engine number is: EM9-400

It is a 1980 SuperLiner.

Can't seem to find any in Saskatchewan. We live north of where Montana and North Dakota meet.

Its too good of a old truck just to park.

Cheers

Byron Skjerdal

The engine must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. (NOPE its was a fairly comon thing ) Just happens!

and usually the same way every time shut the engine off everything is fine ,Start the engine up Bang Bang Bang!

anyway .As Glenn pointed out ,you do have 3 more heads to possibly do, But if you need a good runner we have a few!

We just tore down a v8 got lots of parts Might even scare up a piston ,Phone Gary At Nanaimo Mack ( Vancouver Island)

1 250 758 0185 phone tommoro Gary is not here Fridays!

He'll hook ya up ! Tell em Fred sent ya!

[bron32]

Hello Gang.

We got the big Mack running. New liner, piston and rod bearing and rebuilt head. It took about 12 hours to get it

going. It was about 3k for the parts and another 400 bucks to get the injectors cleaned. We are going to set the valves after I put a few hours on it.

Does anyone know the sequence for setting the valves.....that is if one cylinder is on the intake valve could you set the exhaust valve on the other. This would save time turning the engine over.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Byron

[bron32]

The engine must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. (NOPE its was a fairly comon thing ) Just happens!

and usually the same way every time shut the engine off everything is fine ,Start the engine up Bang Bang Bang!

anyway .As Glenn pointed out ,you do have 3 more heads to possibly do, But if you need a good runner we have a few!

We just tore down a v8 got lots of parts Might even scare up a piston ,Phone Gary At Nanaimo Mack ( Vancouver Island)

1 250 758 0185 phone tommoro Gary is not here Fridays!

He'll hook ya up ! Tell em Fred sent ya!

Thanks

I found a place the rebuilds them in Edmonton

I will keep the number in case I need more.

Cheers

Byron

[fjh]

Thanks

I found a place the rebuilds them in Edmonton

I will keep the number in case I need more.

Cheers

Byron

Kool! You set the valves with the pointer located on the right front of the engine aimed at the damper the damper, The set is done in firing order 1548

6372

You need to set a 8 and 7 turn the engine to 8/2 on the damper if the valves are tight and are in motion as you turn the engine you need to turn the engine 360 same for seven .once you have set 8, seven comes up on the next turn!by pass 6 and 3

[bron32]

The valves on number 8 are noisey. Like not ticking but louder than the other 3 heads. I ran this engine for 9 hours

then reset the valves.Still seems to loud for me. Is this normal when you have new piston and liner.

Any suggestions.

Thanks