Klassixplus Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Hi Guys I would like to put a B 61 body on a newer better driving Mack I have seen one done on a later model Maxidine and would like to know if anyone out there knows what different models the cab will fit on thanks Larry Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/15510-b-61/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Hi Guys I would like to put a B 61 body on a newer better driving Mack I have seen one done on a later model Maxidine and would like to know if anyone out there knows what different models the cab will fit on thanks LarryYour best be would probably be an RD model (with mechanical engine) although I have a local customer that mounted a B cab on a CH chassis with electronic E7 engine! It was a ton of fabricating though! Quote Barry - Watt's Truck Center Parts Manager and BMT Webmaster...1-888-304-MACK Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/15510-b-61/#findComment-62656 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Hi Guys I would like to put a B 61 body on a newer better driving Mack I have seen one done on a later model Maxidine and would like to know if anyone out there knows what different models the cab will fit on thanks LarryI have evaluated doing this for years myself but have resolved to installing a rear cutoff onto the front 1/2 of the truck, and installing a new set of "softer" front springs. Sure takes a lot less fabrication to do it this way. Most of the B series frames were spaced at 33.5" in width, (behind the cab to rear) and a good portion of the other trucks, (non Mack) out there are 34" in width. This 1/4" inch difference on each side gives an excellent welding ledge, (or fillet) to weld to. I then take a 1/4 inch plate the width of the inside of the frame rail vertical section, and weld it to the inner frame. The length is determined by the spacing of the crossmembers of the frame but make this at least 18" each side of the weldments determined prior to parting the truck. Not that the frame is the same width each side of the weld, I then bolt a "fishplate" to the inside of the frame using grade "8" hardware. I'm talking winch trucks so you may not need to be so heavy as each application is different. I had a set of springs made up for my B61 but have not installed, driven the truck yet. They should be softer than the originals, but I really don't mind a stiff ride. The rear is air from a donor truck. I'm using an E6-350 for the engine with either a nine, or 13 speed Fuller transmission, a 3.70 Rockwell rear. This combination should yield good reliability, and durability. The fabrication is much less than placing the cab onto another chassis and making things fit and work without a lot of reengineering. Biggest problem is everything is heavy.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/15510-b-61/#findComment-62657 Share on other sites More sharing options...
vision386 Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 I agree with Rob on this topic,in my opinion,you would be better off in the long run concentrating on mechanical upgrades to an existing B-model rather than trying to adapt a B to a later model chassis. Unless of course you are an expert fabricator,or have a TON of disposable income! air-ride,power steering,engine/trans. swaps are all reasonally simple tasks to accomplish on a B-model given some planning and forethought IE: 237 maxidyne/ 5 spd. trans.etc. just my two cents!................Mark Quote Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/15510-b-61/#findComment-62659 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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