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I have a couple of questions on my END673. I am in the middle of this restore on my B53 and I plan to keep the END673. It runs strong, doesn't miss and would like to keep the power plant Mack. I apologize in advance, This is my first Mack project, and well my real first "big truck" project.

Currently on my END673 the oil filter is a canister like system:

img_0301.jpg

I see where most people change over the filters to this style:

Mack_ENDT_675_left.jpg

To change this over, what needs to be done?

Also, besides changing oil, hoses, basic engine maintenance, is there anything else I should know or do?

I appreciate all the help, I have searching the threads and have found a ton of useful information, such as what type of oil I should use, and other items.

Thanks!

Josh

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You can not change that engine over to the full flow screw on cansiter filters. Your engine has no full flow filter and only has a luberfiner 500 partial flow by/pass filter. Meaning only a partial flow of lub goes thru the filter and back to the sump. The later block and i am only guessing that it came out around 1960 had a pad on the side of the b lock that forced all of the oil from the pump out to a filter and back in the block thru same pad and this made it a full flow filtering system. It also had a oil cooler.

glenn akers

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I am new to this as well, but have a question on the oil filters.

Why can't you use the screw on filters for the 673? even if it is a bypass system isn't using a screw on filter just changing what is actually doing the filtering, or is there a flow issue?

I believe the oil galleries within the block are cast and bored differently.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hi, I am somewhat new to this also, however, we have taken the spin-off oil filter setup from a 237 and mated it to a 711 that had the same luberfiner setup. It was more involved than we expected; oil cooler, water pump housing and all connectors and hoses as well as making a new water pipe to reach the connection to the water manifold. If I wasn't so far into it I would have just bought the new hoses etc, that needed to be replaced instead of trying the conversion. You also need to change the pressure spring in the mounting base that goes on the block. We consulted an old Mack mechanic and parts guy before starting this and he assured us it would work. I will keep you posted as to success or failure. I hope this helps. Greg

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I believe the oil galleries within the block are cast and bored differently.

Rob

Rob is right the pad on the side of the block where the 4 bolts screw in has a out and in for the main oil galley where there is a full flow system no matter if it is the big cantister or the screw on. On this engine the oil galley passes straight by the pad on the side and the 500 by/pass mfilter is only tapped into the galley to the filter and then the filter returns to the sump. This engine does not have a full flow and can not have one installed. The oil pan should have a large removeable inspection pan on the bottom of the oil pan with a screen in it for the oil pick up tube. When the oil is changed on the engine the bottom inspection pan and screen should be removed and all of the metal cleaned from it. I grew up with these engines.I also do not remenber the stareted on the left side but that does not mean it did not come that way. I under stand that the last triplex and quads came with a pull type clutch and i think the flywheel housing and flywheel would have been different.I can not remenber seeing one set up like that but i know that year engine and that flywheel looks to be wrong together.

glenn akers

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No, you can't change that engine over to full flow spin on filters for the reasons previously stated.

Regarding the LH starter location, I've seen B61SX that had the power steering driven off the rear of the air compressor with that old 2 belt drive. They had the starter on the left side because there was no room on the right with the P.S. pump there. Ir was an OEM factory setup, not changed later.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Looking closer at the original post, it appears that truck has a Sheppard power steering box, and I see it has an alternator with no power steering pump drive on the back of it, so I'm guessing the P.S. pump is driven off the back of the compressor.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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The PS pump is on the other side and driven off a belt. Here is a good shot:

img_0295.jpg

Looking closer at the original post, it appears that truck has a Sheppard power steering box, and I see it has an alternator with no power steering pump drive on the back of it, so I'm guessing the P.S. pump is driven off the back of the compressor.

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That's the power steering pump setup that was used on the early DM & R models.

I have that same pump reservoir setup I'm planning to use on one of our B models with Garrison power steering. My daughter will drive that one.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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