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The parts books (at the parts store) only list Mack axles as FA511-8000#s, FA514-9500#s, or FA532 (or 536)-10500#s...

Mine is an FA517, our wiki lists the weight at 9500#s, would this take the same tie rod ends as the FA-514 (9500#s)?

I would take them off and measure them, but cant get to it until Thursday...plus, I dont think the parts store can get the measurements anyway (they are not in stock)!

Anyway, any help would be appreciated...

Leslie

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The parts books (at the parts store) only list Mack axles as FA511-8000#s, FA514-9500#s, or FA532 (or 536)-10500#s...

Mine is an FA517, our wiki lists the weight at 9500#s, would this take the same tie rod ends as the FA-514 (9500#s)?

I would take them off and measure them, but cant get to it until Thursday...plus, I dont think the parts store can get the measurements anyway (they are not in stock)!

Anyway, any help would be appreciated...

Leslie

NAPA, or Carquest catalogs have the listings. They are the same as a FA-505 steer axle if original.

Don't bother with Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, or the like of the retail national chains geared toward the over the counter sale. This is not their line of business. Any heavy truck parts supplier will be able to look them up as the 517 axle is just like the 505 with a little more positive SAI built into it.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

New mystery...does anyone recognize this style of tie rod end and center link...

Don at the meuseum sent a drawing of the tie rod that came with my axle and it is a different type (female on the rod end), so what I have is not stock...took the end to NAPA and cumberland truck parts and they cannot match it with measurements.

The closest they can get has the nut end at 7/8" (mine is 3/4") and a bigger taper. The local Mack dealer is ordering a part he thinks will fit

Wondering if anyone recognizes this...

Measurements are as follows.

Big end threads are 1 1/8 x 12...small end threads are 3/4 X 16

Also just found a part number...24-5000...also a 3 with a small diamond shape next to it...ring any bells?

Thanks

post-6773-072623600 1292541433_thumb.jpg

New mystery...does anyone recognize this style of tie rod end and center link...

Don at the meuseum sent a drawing of the tie rod that came with my axle and it is a different type (female on the rod end), so what I have is not stock...took the end to NAPA and cumberland truck parts and they cannot match it with measurements.

The closest they can get has the nut end at 7/8" (mine is 3/4") and a bigger taper. The local Mack dealer is ordering a part he thinks will fit

Wondering if anyone recognizes this...

Measurements are as follows.

Big end threads are 1 1/8 x 12...small end threads are 3/4 X 16

Also just found a part number...24-5000...also a 3 with a small diamond shape next to it...ring any bells?

Thanks

Here is a link to Arvin Meritor's front axle parts manual: http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/PB8951.PDF. There is a dimensional breakdown of several ball joints starting on page 21. You may be able to match it up from this information.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

New mystery...does anyone recognize this style of tie rod end and center link...

Don at the meuseum sent a drawing of the tie rod that came with my axle and it is a different type (female on the rod end), so what I have is not stock...took the end to NAPA and cumberland truck parts and they cannot match it with measurements.

The closest they can get has the nut end at 7/8" (mine is 3/4") and a bigger taper. The local Mack dealer is ordering a part he thinks will fit

Wondering if anyone recognizes this...

Measurements are as follows.

Big end threads are 1 1/8 x 12...small end threads are 3/4 X 16

Also just found a part number...24-5000...also a 3 with a small diamond shape next to it...ring any bells?

Thanks

Looks like someone discovered how difficult or expensive it is to acquire original replacements........

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Here is a link to Arvin Meritor's front axle parts manual: http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/PB8951.PDF. There is a dimensional breakdown of several ball joints starting on page 21. You may be able to match it up from this information.

Thanks...I found the part (by measurements) I needed and NAPA delivered today!

Thanks...I found the part (by measurements) I needed and NAPA delivered today!

Okay, this S**T aint funny anymore...I had pulled only one tie rod end out of the cross tube...thought my problems were over

Ordered right and left hand threaded tie rod ends from NAPA...the right hand threaded one was next day, which I got Saturday morining,left hand would not be in until Monday...Okay, I thought i was good to go...

After wrestling and cursing I got the other side broke loose from the cross tube...wait a second, this thing is right hand thread also!

Okay, I remember in the manual it said something about a "dropped" cross tube needing to take loose one end from the steering arm to adjsut the toe, Okay, must be what I have, luckily NAPA is still open so I order another right hander, will be here Monday, NOW everything is ready, so today, I figured I would get ahead of the game and install the tie rod I have, get the wheels lined up, get some string lines set up, but WAIT! WTF, these two tie rod ends have different threads! I cant seem to get ahead of this thing!

Looks like tomorrow I will try to find a straight cross tube the right length with the right threads! Maybe this time, as dont see anything else that can go wrong!

post-6773-079964900 1292791200_thumb.jpg

Okay, this S**T aint funny anymore...I had pulled only one tie rod end out of the cross tube...thought my problems were over

Ordered right and left hand threaded tie rod ends from NAPA...the right hand threaded one was next day, which I got Saturday morining,left hand would not be in until Monday...Okay, I thought i was good to go...

After wrestling and cursing I got the other side broke loose from the cross tube...wait a second, this thing is right hand thread also!

Okay, I remember in the manual it said something about a "dropped" cross tube needing to take loose one end from the steering arm to adjsut the toe, Okay, must be what I have, luckily NAPA is still open so I order another right hander, will be here Monday, NOW everything is ready, so today, I figured I would get ahead of the game and install the tie rod I have, get the wheels lined up, get some string lines set up, but WAIT! WTF, these two tie rod ends have different threads! I cant seem to get ahead of this thing!

Looks like tomorrow I will try to find a straight cross tube the right length with the right threads! Maybe this time, as dont see anything else that can go wrong!

It's not difficult to have a cross tube made if you run out of luck finding and original which will be in short supply. The "dropped center" cross tubes are much stronger and do not deflect from torsional forces as easily as the straight tube type.

As mentioned earlier a straight tube type has both left and right threaded rod ends. I've seen dropped center types with both right hand and right and left had thread rod ends but never a differing thread count on each side. Seems your truck has had a bit of finagling to keep it going in years gone past.

Don't tell us you're not enjoying this?????

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

It's not difficult to have a cross tube made if you run out of luck finding and original which will be in short supply. The "dropped center" cross tubes are much stronger and do not deflect from torsional forces as easily as the straight tube type.

As mentioned earlier a straight tube type has both left and right threaded rod ends. I've seen dropped center types with both right hand and right and left had thread rod ends but never a differing thread count on each side. Seems your truck has had a bit of finagling to keep it going in years gone past.

Don't tell us you're not enjoying this?????

Rob

I am having a GREAT time! It certainly is not boring!...I think I have been in denial, I was thinking that my cross tube was factory bent, maybe to clear the oil pan on the original V-8...But I believe now, especially since the threads are different but both right handed, I think the damn thing is just bent! I am hoping to find an aftermarket straight one of the correct dimensions and will use the left-right hand tread combonation to make adjustments easy!

post-6773-027490600 1292805036_thumb.jpg

post-6773-001230000 1292805042_thumb.jpg

I am having a GREAT time! It certainly is not boring!...I think I have been in denial, I was thinking that my cross tube was factory bent, maybe to clear the oil pan on the original V-8...But I believe now, especially since the threads are different but both right handed, I think the damn thing is just bent! I am hoping to find an aftermarket straight one of the correct dimensions and will use the left-right hand tread combonation to make adjustments easy!

No sir, that certainly isn't a factory bend!

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

On the earlier trucks with FA 517, 519, 522, 600 axles the cross steering tube ( tie rod) has two different pitch threads so you have fine adjustment. At times you have to drop one taper and advance one end to get where you want to be. The female threaded end type years ago is a servicable joint, not the case here. I have straighted many cross tubes over the years.

FW

On the earlier trucks with FA 517, 519, 522, 600 axles the cross steering tube ( tie rod) has two different pitch threads so you have fine adjustment. At times you have to drop one taper and advance one end to get where you want to be. The female threaded end type years ago is a servicable joint, not the case here. I have straighted many cross tubes over the years.

FW

Hi Neal, how early is earlier? I have a 58 B model and the tie rod ends were left and right thread and the same pitch as were my 62 B model. These are both FA-517 axles. Leslie's truck is a 65 model. I'm wondering if his center link is from a much earlier truck?

I've straightened a lot of center links through the years. I'd prolly put that one in a press and straighten best as possible, then weld a piece of angle steel to the tube. This will still allow clearance to rotate the link for setting toe to specifications and significantly strengthen the tube itself.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

What I was trying to address is that,a tie rod with right hand threads of different thread pitches is orignal equipment in the B model era, they may have used LH-RH type also. The FA 600's use RH-RH into the mid 60's and possibly later.

FW

What I was trying to address is that,a tie rod with right hand threads of different thread pitches is orignal equipment in the B model era, they may have used LH-RH type also. The FA 600's use RH-RH into the mid 60's and possibly later.

FW

I think everyone is correct! From the highway service manual covering the B-Models...

"Minor toe-in corrections, where a straight cross steering tube is used, are made by loosening the clamp bolts and turing the cross steering tube. This is accomplished by either using right and left hand threads, or threads of different pitch on the tube and ball sockets."

Mine MAY have been changed, as Don from the museum sent a drawing for my truck that shows female sockets on the tie rod ends (mfg by Thompson)...

Leslie

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