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Had previously broken loose "frozen on stud" lug nuts by using the impact and driving them into the hub to break the nuts loose...well, today, in a fit of stupidity, I tried to do the same with a socket and breaker bar...If I had only known that the local parts store has Euclid studs for only 98 cents, I might have avoided 3 hours of cursing, heating, drilling, tapping, etc..Anyway, lesson learned!

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Had previously broken loose "frozen on stud" lug nuts by using the impact and driving them into the hub to break the nuts loose...well, today, in a fit of stupidity, I tried to do the same with a socket and breaker bar...If I had only known that the local parts store has Euclid studs for only 98 cents, I might have avoided 3 hours of cursing, heating, drilling, tapping, etc..Anyway, lesson learned!

There is enough stud remaining that a stud remover would have extracted it once the wheel was removed quite effortlessly.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Lubricant and time are the friend of amateur truck mechanic. I don't see any lubricant on that frozen nut. Lube it up or get out the checkbook!

Here ya go.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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Yeah, that would be an "easy" one to remove, just heat the hub around the stud , give the end of the stud a couple slams with a hammer to "shock" it, then grab it with a stud remover or a pipe wrench & unscrew it!

When they break off flush or slightly below the surface, then the fun begins!!!

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Yeah, that would be an "easy" one to remove, just heat the hub around the stud , give the end of the stud a couple slams with a hammer to "shock" it, then grab it with a stud remover or a pipe wrench & unscrew it!

When they break off flush or slightly below the surface, then the fun begins!!!

I seen a homade "jig" for drilling those broken studs out of Dayton hubs. It was a flat steel plate with arms that adjusted and fastened to the remaining/existing studs of the hub. One would then attach their magnetic drill to the plate, and drill out the stud. This worked on all styles of Dayton hubs with various adapters.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I seen a homade "jig" for drilling those broken studs out of Dayton hubs. It was a flat steel plate with arms that adjusted and fastened to the remaining/existing studs of the hub. One would then attach their magnetic drill to the plate, and drill out the stud. This worked on all styles of Dayton hubs with various adapters.

Rob

I drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the stud, then use the torch to make a few slices from the hole outward, till I see the threads start to show. Then take a half round ended chisel and drive the pieces of stud toward the middle, and remove them. Then I run a tap thru the hole to clean up the threads.

That method also works good when those 2 threaded into the housing spring box bolts on the right side of a camelback suspension are broke off in the housing.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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I drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the stud, then use the torch to make a few slices from the hole outward, till I see the threads start to show. Then take a half round ended chisel and drive the pieces of stud toward the middle, and remove them. Then I run a tap thru the hole to clean up the threads.

That method also works good when those 2 threaded into the housing spring box bolts on the right side of a camelback suspension are broke off in the housing.

I've never had to do that on Dayton hubs but have on other fasteners. Always have been able to get them out with the drill, torch and extractor after cooling the stud interior with a spray bottle of water. They shrink so fast at times you hear them crack when they break loose. This is what I'm going to need to do on Project R-12 on those rt. rear housings as the hex heads of the bolts are basically gone from rust. If I can ever get the replacement frame home from Colorado, I'll get started again on that project....

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Ouch..............PB blaster IS your best friend.

Did have to replace a few on my truck back when I bought it. Luckily they came out with some heat and a pipe wrench.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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