Not Much Accomplished Today:

[Rob]

Well, here I was ready to get the "Trusty, yet Crusty" Dodge back together but parts didn't show up. So's I look over at the winch truck and thinks to myself, "Self" you ought to do something to that truck today. So I removed the delapidated plastic headliner and got rid of three mouse carcasses, and the holey fiberglass insulation. Figgering that wasn't enough I went to work removing the cab back glass for the installation of the new slider, and front windshields which were both cracked. The rear popped out without fanfare, but the fronts were glued into the perimeter seal. Man I hate when glass shops do that shit to get them to quit leaking. You most always have to either cut the rubber seal from the body, or rip it off. Either way it's fatal to the perimeter seal. So here I sit with a cab that has no windshields cause I don't have a new weatherstrip. "Shit" I say and get on the phone to my PAI supplier to spend some money. After ordering everything rubber for the cab with the exception of the front floor mat, (I want the Mack logo so it comes from the dealer) I'm quite raw. Also went ahead and pulled the door guts apart, then cleaned, oiled, and greased everything that moves. Now the windows go up and down very easily in comparison to before. Just for shits and grins I ordered the interior window crank and door operator handles too with escrutcheons as a kit. I purchase the rear window perimeter weatherstrip, and front windshield locker strip in bulk rolls and always have that. So much easier to work with new rubber as opposed to something 20+ years aged. I probably have a new front weatherstrip around here someplace but who knows.......

Good news is no real rust but a severely banged up roof panel with a few pounds of filler in it. I'll probably replace the roof skin next summer after seeing this.

Don't tell "Momma" I worked on one of my Macks all day cause I promised her I'd do some work on the bathroom floor where I fell through when plopping down on the throne. The cinder blocks and zip tie straps are holding everything together for now and the piece of plywood over the hole in floor doesn't look that bad when covered with a rug. The rug part is what she don't much care for cause my aim is so bad.

Rob

[Rob]

I probably have a new front weatherstrip around here someplace but who knows.......

Yup, found it and installed two used but perfect pieces of glass into the cab. Also used a new locker strip with plenty of water based rubber lube. Prolly install the rear slider tomorrow with a new gasket also.

Rob

[cgallamore]

that sounds like a nice relaxing saturday,

when you get a chance go to my old website, www.cgallamore.com no midget porn..

[Rob]

that sounds like a nice relaxing saturday,

when you get a chance go to my old website, www.cgallamore.com no midget porn..

Yeah, I like working on my own shit ever now and again. Really was relaxing. My 23 pound shop cat "Shiffa", (short for shit for brains) jumps down off the headrack onto the top of the cab which is pretty beat up and flimsy, it "oil cans" and sounds like someone smacking the side of an oil drum with a 2x4!! Bout scared the bgeezus outta me cause I wasn't expecting it.

I'm not really into the midget porn. That would be Other Dog, and Randy's dept. I like female midget mud wrestling myself; the more slime and mud, the better.

Rob

[Rob]

I turned the "electric sun" (8000 watt paint cure lamp) onto the old perimeter seal for the rear window tonight. Keep that rubber at 175 degrees and it gets really pliable. Man did that work good. I was able to stretch it back about 1.5" in length, and the ends touch at the bottom of the slider frame like they're supposed to. Should have glued it in place but I didn't think about it at the time. Really didn't feel like working in the shop tonight so didn't turn the heat up and it's only about 38 degrees in there. As the rubber cools down it will take a "set" around the frame and easily slip into the cab opening. Maybe tomorrow.

Should have a trailer tomorrow.

Rob

[Freightrain]

The fact I didn't GLUE my new glass/rubber in the front of my truck makes it leak like a siv with any more then a drizzle outside!! I guess I need to pull it all back out and get the super glue out? Really tired of getting a wet knee every rainstorm.

Glad to hear the trailer is showing up.

[Rob]

The fact I didn't GLUE my new glass/rubber in the front of my truck makes it leak like a siv with any more then a drizzle outside!! I guess I need to pull it all back out and get the super glue out? Really tired of getting a wet knee every rainstorm.

Glad to hear the trailer is showing up.

You need a butyl type sealer that comes in a pint can. This can screws onto a special gun that looks like a pump oiler with a trigger. Insert the wand into the space between the front of the glass and the rubber channel and squeeze it in. Go around the complete perimeter. This stuff is still soft and pliable after 30 years so you can remove the glass easily later. Don't use urethane adhesive as you'll destroy the perimeter moulding should you ever need to remove the glass again.

I like to do the outside of the pinchweld area before bedding the moulding into it also. No water migrates under that way.

Rob

[Freightrain]

I think it's coming in from the outside edge, somewhere around the top edge maybe and running down inside edge til it gets to the corner and then drops down dash. Nothing coming from the glass area, only under the rubber moulding. Need to buy the dohicky thingmabob to put the lock strip back in when I pull the glass out and fix it.

Where do you get this stuff? Auto paint store? or specialty supply house? local glass place? Might even just take it and have it done?

[Rob]

I think it's coming in from the outside edge, somewhere around the top edge maybe and running down inside edge til it gets to the corner and then drops down dash. Nothing coming from the glass area, only under the rubber moulding. Need to buy the dohicky thingmabob to put the lock strip back in when I pull the glass out and fix it.

Where do you get this stuff? Auto paint store? or specialty supply house? local glass place? Might even just take it and have it done?

I get most of my glass supplies from a wholesaler in either Ohio, or N. Dakota. I think the applicator gun is about $40.00, and the butyl is probably $15.00 a can. I'll see if I have any that is good, (haven't used it in a couple of years) and send it to you. A one time use would hardly be worth the purchase price to get set up. Don't think a glass shop would charge that much however.

Rob

[Rob]

I've seen a lot of truck leaks though the cab/clearance lamps on the roof also and the water runs down the "A" pillar onto the floor behind the cowl. Seal those up also.

Rob

[Freightrain]

Few years back I put the new rubber/glass in, the lock ring tool was $20 sumthin and the glass shop only charged $20 to do it. Duh...have at it! I might stop in and see if I can bring it in when I get it back together and have them pull the glass and seal it up better. I know the lower part of the driver side post had some rust and I sealed it up with POR 15. A small part of the ridge was gone, but not enough to worry about. I tried using the windshield sealant from Azone that is suppose to "run down and fill in gaps". Didnt do much. I think the lights are sealed okay, though the bases area a bit rusty from 50 yrs. Don't seem to get water down the post, only under the corner of the windshield.

Just another lil project that needs to get attention.

[Rob]

Few years back I put the new rubber/glass in, the lock ring tool was $20 sumthin and the glass shop only charged $20 to do it. Duh...have at it! I might stop in and see if I can bring it in when I get it back together and have them pull the glass and seal it up better. I know the lower part of the driver side post had some rust and I sealed it up with POR 15. A small part of the ridge was gone, but not enough to worry about. I tried using the windshield sealant from Azone that is suppose to "run down and fill in gaps". Didnt do much. I think the lights are sealed okay, though the bases area a bit rusty from 50 yrs. Don't seem to get water down the post, only under the corner of the windshield.

Just another lil project that needs to get attention.

Roll a window down about 12" and fashion a piece of stiff cardboard or plastic to fill the opening simulating the closed window. Cut a hole in the cardboard and push a shop vacume hose through connected to the blowing side of the unit, duct tape the cardboard securely, turn the vacume on, and flood the cab with soapy water. With the air blowing and pressurizing the cab you will see bubbles wherever their is an air leak. Usually if air gets out, water gets in.

I hate chasing water leaks especially on new cars....... Sat many times in an automated car wash looking for water intrusion.

Rob

[David]

Rob, Can you change the name on this thread so we can find this information when it comes time to use it.

[Freightrain]

The only BAD thing about your water leak check.........is you are assuming the cab is air tight. Ever seen the inside of my truck?? LOL!!!

New cars are much tighter then anything 50 yrs ago. You can't hardly get the doors closed on my '89 F150 because it's so freak'n air tight. Makes me cuss more then not! Guess I'll have to wait for the floors to rot out then the doors will close LOL!!! (and that ain't happen'n for a longgg time)

[Rob]

The only BAD thing about your water leak check.........is you are assuming the cab is air tight. Ever seen the inside of my truck?? LOL!!!

New cars are much tighter then anything 50 yrs ago. You can't hardly get the doors closed on my '89 F150 because it's so freak'n air tight. Makes me cuss more then not! Guess I'll have to wait for the floors to rot out then the doors will close LOL!!! (and that ain't happen'n for a longgg time)

That is why you use a shop vac due to the volume of air flow. You would need to have a door physically open to not have positive static pressure inside the cab doing this test. Most times the defroster will do the trick also but the shop vac always works. Just don't spray the electric motor with the water!!

Rob

[Rob]

Rob, Can you change the name on this thread so we can find this information when it comes time to use it.

I can try. What sounds good? Is the focal point to be tracing water leakage, automotive glass installation, seam sealing, troubleshooting/isolation, etc?

Rob

[Rob]

Got a call from the trailer "shagger" at 2:30EST. He was in Indy and headed my way. Should meet up within about an hour. Been listening to daughter and "Momma" verbally abuse me for about 1/2 hour so had enough and need to get back to the shop and recover. Sometimes I feel I'm just too damned sensitive; or maybe they are just unfairly brutal on ole Rob.

Rob

[Greg Rider]

I hate chasing water leaks especially on new cars....... Sat many times in an automated car wash looking for water intrusion.

Rob

It will go MUCH faster if you put the top up on those convertables!!!

[other dog]

Roll a window down about 12" and fashion a piece of stiff cardboard or plastic to fill the opening simulating the closed window. Cut a hole in the cardboard and push a shop vacume hose through connected to the blowing side of the unit, duct tape the cardboard securely, turn the vacume on, and flood the cab with soapy water. With the air blowing and pressurizing the cab you will see bubbles wherever their is an air leak. Usually if air gets out, water gets in.

I hate chasing water leaks especially on new cars....... Sat many times in an automated car wash looking for water intrusion.

Rob

"flood the cab with soapy water"...I don't get it. How deep should the water be in the cab? Does it have to be full to the ceiling,to the top of the dash, or is just up to the seats enough?

[Rob]

"flood the cab with soapy water"...I don't get it. How deep should the water be in the cab? Does it have to be full to the ceiling,to the top of the dash, or is just up to the seats enough?

I suppose if you wanted to test the seal on the CB antenna mounted through the roof, You'd need to fill it complete.

Never really thought about it thataway, but it would work. You just need adequate flow volume through the filler to overcome the other possible leakage points.

Rob

[Bollweevil]

"flood the cab with soapy water"...I don't get it. How deep should the water be in the cab? Does it have to be full to the ceiling,to the top of the dash, or is just up to the seats enough?

It confused me too Tom. the first time I read it. I always had someone spray water on the car while I sat inside cursing my luck. I still have the Mac tools molding clip release tool purchased well over 40 years ago. It was also known as a windshield buster, and has sucsesfuly broken many windshields. The dealership would then send the car out to the glass shop for a windshield, and Buick Motor Division always paid for them. In retrospect, I don't know why I didn't just hit them with a hammer, instead of searching for hours for a water leak.

[Rob]

It confused me too Tom. the first time I read it. I always had someone spray water on the car while I sat inside cursing my luck. I still have the Mac tools molding clip release tool purchased well over 40 years ago. It was also known as a windshield buster, and has sucsesfuly broken many windshields. The dealership would then send the car out to the glass shop for a windshield, and Buick Motor Division always paid for them. In retrospect, I don't know why I didn't just hit them with a hammer, instead of searching for hours for a water leak.

Must be the triangle head tool used to "rock" the reveal moulding clips back to release the aluminum garnish mouldings? Those were very useful as long as a gorilla didn't caulk the seam full of butyl to compensate for a windshield that should have been cut out and reset. Back in those days glass was not an integral part of the structual integrity, or part of the engineered "crush zone" new motor vehicles are subject to. One used to set clean glass on butyl ribbon, and snap the mouldings back on; done. Nowadays, you remove the glass, shave back the existing urethane bedding, prime both the glass and existing urethane, lay an adequate bead for effective "squeeze out" for adhesion, attach the vinyl moulding to the glass if not preset, set the glass on the bead and center in the opening, clean up the excess that squeezes out the sides and hopefully call it good after setting about an hour. Ever notice all new vehicles have black shading around the perimeter? That is a shade as the UV radiation from the sun breaks down urethane much the same as tires and could cause failure, (theoretically).

Rob

[Freightrain]

Always wondered the reason for the black sheilding, makes sense.

My '95 F150(that got totalled) had a leak in the top center of window, not terrible, but a drip. I tried to get the one local shop to just cut it out and reset it. Nope, they had to spend an afternoon screwing around with it before they would cut it out. Come on guys, just do it. Nope. I tried using the liquid stuff from Azone and poured it across the top. It just didn't seem to help any, but looked like it had totally filled the top groove. Don't have to worry about it anymore LOL!!!

My '89 that replaced it got a new window back when I got the bed fixed after the next moron in a minivan whacked it. Apparently the glass guy was concerned the truck was a rust bucket and would be a nightmare. My friend who owned the bodyshop told him.."No problem, it's a creampuff of a truck". It's nice driving and knowing you won't have water dripping on the dash(or YOU).