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I would like to try it, if it will make mine quit floating in bathtub,,,randyp

A #2 upholstery needle will solve that for you. Be certain to dip the tip into alcohol prior to "pricking" yourself. Also, don't fall in love with the action. Folks will think you are disturbed.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

A #2 upholstery needle will solve that for you. Be certain to dip the tip into alcohol prior to "pricking" yourself. Also, don't fall in love with the action. Folks will think you are disturbed.

Rob

Well, I think they already think that Rob. Yes Oldmacks, look what you have started here, already gone into 2 pages,,,LOL,,,randyp :clap:

Same here...MMM is all I have ever used in anything with a noisy valve train, dry knock etc etc...but thats coming from my old man, we are "old school" when it comes to these newer products. Kinda like motor honey I mean who in the hell would put that stuff in an engine, it takes 35 minutes for it just to pour out of the bottle its so thick!

Yup, after removing the filter, 90wt gear oil will make an automatic shift long enough to trade the car in too........

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I wouldn't use it if the oil ain't good enough get better oil, there is oil in the market that is alot better then what a B model needs to operate correctly and what is the reaction between the additives that the oil company add and what some other company makes that don't know what is in the oil you purchased in the first place. It can't be good if cause sack swelling be careful lol :pat:

I wouldn't use it if the oil ain't good enough get better oil, there is oil in the market that is alot better then what a B model needs to operate correctly and what is the reaction between the additives that the oil company add and what some other company makes that don't know what is in the oil you purchased in the first place. It can't be good if cause sack swelling be careful lol :pat:

The sack swelling really is not a big deal and can be worked around. However, continued use leads to elongation and that just plain hurts.

A word of advice if suffering this predicament; stand up before flushing, and wear loose fitting jeans.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

If you are predisposed not to use lucas oil additive in an engine that you don't use anyway, nothing anyone says will affect your decision one way or another. Substitution of a gallon of Lucas for a gallon of engine oil at each oil change is not cheap, but neither is a gallon of premium engine oil. What about people that do use their engines, everyday, that do use it and swear by it. A million miles on a B model Cat or a 400 Cummins without an overhaul doesn't exactly sound too ignorant.

If you are predisposed not to use lucas oil additive in an engine that you don't use anyway, nothing anyone says will affect your decision one way or another. Substitution of a gallon of Lucas for a gallon of engine oil at each oil change is not cheap, but neither is a gallon of premium engine oil. What about people that do use their engines, everyday, that do use it and swear by it. A million miles on a B model Cat or a 400 Cummins without an overhaul doesn't exactly sound too ignorant.

I just heard stories of the oil foaming when the additive was added, just what any engine wants, air bubbles running thru the crank journals. I think I might try some in my gearboxes but might leave well enough alone with the engines!

I just heard stories of the oil foaming when the additive was added, just what any engine wants, air bubbles running thru the crank journals. I think I might try some in my gearboxes but might leave well enough alone with the engines!

heh heh,,its kinda like that foaming bathtub cleaner, those are POWER bubbles! randyp

:SMOKIE-LFT: Lucas won't hurt it. I swear by it, and use it in all my stuff. I ran it in both my 866 and my E9 when I was running them daily. My dad also ran it in his E9, and a friend of mine with a couple 6 cyl. Mack powered Superliners, one is a 1980 with the original 2 valve 350, that runs daily, he also uses Lucas and swears by it. So don't be afraid of it in your old 2 valve it won't hurt anything.

:SMOKIE-LFT: Lucas won't hurt it. I swear by it, and use it in all my stuff. I ran it in both my 866 and my E9 when I was running them daily. My dad also ran it in his E9, and a friend of mine with a couple 6 cyl. Mack powered Superliners, one is a 1980 with the original 2 valve 350, that runs daily, he also uses Lucas and swears by it. So don't be afraid of it in your old 2 valve it won't hurt anything.

Well, its in there! 1 gallon of the stuff, I just did an oil change today and put it in...engine was tight, but had minor blow by...lets see how it works!!! :thumb::dwave:

I run standard oil in both my Trucks. at work I run synthetic in the Cat engine. the Macks tend to build up with soot realy fast. the oil is black after a few days the cat is clean untill 4000 miles and then it starts to get dark. never have put an additive in the engine oil but have used lucas stop leak in the hubs,boxes and rears, It does reduce leaks. As far as the oil additives for the engine you can look at it a few ways. A engine with soot often slows leaks. when the soot is removed the leaks start. on the other hand a clean engine will likely last longer. Personaly I would like to use synthetic but that wont happen untill I have rebuilt the engine and replaced all the old seals. I was told that standard and synthetic oils dont mix well. I try to keep it one or the other....

I run standard oil in both my Trucks. at work I run synthetic in the Cat engine. the Macks tend to build up with soot realy fast. the oil is black after a few days the cat is clean untill 4000 miles and then it starts to get dark. never have put an additive in the engine oil but have used lucas stop leak in the hubs,boxes and rears, It does reduce leaks. As far as the oil additives for the engine you can look at it a few ways. A engine with soot often slows leaks. when the soot is removed the leaks start. on the other hand a clean engine will likely last longer. Personaly I would like to use synthetic but that wont happen untill I have rebuilt the engine and replaced all the old seals. I was told that standard and synthetic oils dont mix well. I try to keep it one or the other....

My cousin...turns out he has been running Lucas since the the stuff came out, in Macks old and new, Cats and Cummins, I asked his advice and he looked at me like I had 4 heads...I mean how was I supposed to know he runs it! Anyways, I really dont think it will do anything more than just add a few PSI to the oil pressure and yes prevent dry starts. We'll see...at 29 bucks a gallon I think it might be a short lived experience. The stuff is like heavy gear oil, 100% petroleum no teflon etc etc.

Thats what happens at 100 psi of boost and 3000+ RPM!

YUP! the article i read where that picture came from,said they were running a recording tach,topped out at 3490 RPM,and approx 120 psi boost pressure before it came apart!.....Mark

Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate.

I run standard oil in both my Trucks. at work I run synthetic in the Cat engine. the Macks tend to build up with soot realy fast. the oil is black after a few days the cat is clean untill 4000 miles and then it starts to get dark. never have put an additive in the engine oil but have used lucas stop leak in the hubs,boxes and rears, It does reduce leaks. As far as the oil additives for the engine you can look at it a few ways. A engine with soot often slows leaks. when the soot is removed the leaks start. on the other hand a clean engine will likely last longer. Personaly I would like to use synthetic but that wont happen untill I have rebuilt the engine and replaced all the old seals. I was told that standard and synthetic oils dont mix well. I try to keep it one or the other....

When you mentioned soot, it reminded me of a situation I once encountered. At between 5 and 6 thousand miles after an oil change my 350 Cummins dropped oil pressure from 60 to 15 lbs. running. I changed the filter and it went right back to 60 lbs. It stayed up until service time, and after about 6 thousand it did it again. The truck would puff a little between shifts, but never smoked excessively. I was discussing the problem with a friend, and he said , I had the same problem, change the Turbo. Soot was entering the oil through the turbo shaft seals. I changed the turbo and never had that problem again.

I think this engine is just old and it has blowby? the Turbo is old also so it may be comeing thru there as well? I would rebuild it but it has not been on the road for 2 years and It still pulls just fine. What I need to do is pour some Diesel in the crank case and run it for a few min when its hot. Drain the pan and let it sit over night draining. Havent done a oil change in 2 years but it only has 5oo miles on her. It had lots of idle time last year from moving it around the yard...\\

I'll give you guys an update on the Lucas this week. I'm fixin to pull the pan on my E9 and check the bearings and I have run 2 gallons of Lucas in it with every oil change since it was overhauled. That was 5 years and 386K ago.

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